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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am wondering if someone can tell me what the stock gearing would be for a 1996 Ski Doo Mach 1. Mine has reverse installed on it and it does not reach the top end speeds that people say it is capable of. I will admit I did the reverse swap with a used chaincase off of a Summit, year unknown, and never looked at the gears and noted it. I believe the reverse drive gear is a 44 tooth and my sled had a 40 tooth in it. I believe I left the stock jackshaft gear on it and have a 25 tooth that came from the Summit case on the workbench. I would like to get it back to stock ratio to get the top end mph back.

Thanks in advance.
 

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If the specs I'm reading are correct, non reverse chaincase should be 26/44, and factory reverse chaincase 26/43
 

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Agreed. Pretty sure the stock 96 had 26/44 gears. Sounds like that's what you have now. Might want to verify.

A couple teeth either way on gearing won't effect your top end all that much. I'd be looking at other areas of the drivetrain for issues. Clutching, skid...maybe a dragging brake.
 

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^^ Agreed with David.....and keeping a 95/96 Mach 1 twin pipe running to its potential, requires a good primary spring and sliding sheave bushing.

To rule out whether you're shifting out all the way, make a marker stripe up the clutch sheave face and see if this wears away after a full pull.
 

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What is your current top speed? What is your max Rpm while trying to achieve top speed. 1 or 2 teeth on gearing ain’t going to make your 670 any faster or slower. Unless you have engine (what is compression) or clutch issue. That thing in ideal perfect condition should be 100 mph to 110 mph. That is if it’s a shorty track. Go find a racing manual of that vintage 96 to 99 would be fine, it has the break down of the theoretical top speed in overdrive. Usually your sled will never reach it cause of lack of hp and conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the input. Finally had a chance to get the mach in and verified that I do have 44 26 gearing. Now I am going to check the couch settings and springs. I have reason to believe that the couches have been adjusted as I know for fact I took out a 40 tooth gear when I installed the reverse. Curious if any of you would know what spring should be in the primary clutch and also what spring and helix should be in the secondary. Maybe also the factory setting for which hole the secondary spring would have been in.

Thanks again for all the information.
 

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1995 Mach1 stock settings:
26/44 gears, Ramps 285, clicker adjust on # 3, solid pin, primary spring Pi/Wh - 230/380 lbs, Engagement 4400-4600 RPM, secondary cam 47 degree, secondary spring white, pre load 12.1 - 15.4 lbs, pully distance .65"
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks again for the input. The Primary clutch sheeve is not wanting to come apart but it looks to have a blk/wht spring. The clutch engagement is about 4,600 rpm. It was having an issue on wide open pulls that if you "burped" the throttle it would just stick at about 6,200 like it did not fully back shift. I increased the preload on the secondary clutch spring and it seams to have solved the issue. I will have to get a scale out and properly check the preload.
 

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Thanks again for the input. The Primary clutch sheeve is not wanting to come apart but it looks to have a blk/wht spring. The clutch engagement is about 4,600 rpm. It was having an issue on wide open pulls that if you "burped" the throttle it would just stick at about 6,200 like it did not fully back shift. I increased the preload on the secondary clutch spring and it seams to have solved the issue. I will have to get a scale out and properly check the preload.
What won't come apart? Pictures please.
Do you have a shop manual? It seems as though I have asked this question more times this year than any others combined.
 
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When you take the clutch off of the sled and get it on the bench you cannot get the outer sheeve assembly off of the shaft of the inner sheeve.
Screw the bolt which held the clutch on into the clutch a few turns. Pick the clutch up suporting the outer half in your hand then strike the bolt firmly with a hammer. (I use a Brass hammer) The clutch should come apart. The splines are seized into the Governor cup which is not uncommon. I always apply a tiny (emphasis on tiny) amount of lube to the spline where it contacts the cup.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Okay finally have had some time to work on the Mach 1 again. I got the primary apart, thanks LETMGROW, and I have verified that my Primary clutch has the correct stock PK/WHT spring, solid pin, and correct ramps. The secondary has the correct WHT spring but i found that it has a 50 degree helix and the belt alignment is off. I am not familiar with what affect the 50 degree vs. 47 degree helix has. I am going to try to find the factory helix and get the belt alignment set correct while my front shock are being rebuilt.

Does anyone here have a 47 degree helix?
 

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