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It is a running change. 417225969 (039) ramp with clickers. Clicker position should be 3 for all MY23 Renegade X and XRS 900 TurboR. PDrive with Clickers only on X and XRS renegade. It is the same ramp (897 machz) but with clicker so can fine tune to alway turn at 8000 rpm. The finish rate primary spring on MY22 was 170-300 and MY23 is 170-400lbs. Each step of the clicker gives roughly about 100rpm.

View attachment 2006961

View attachment 2006962
any idea if there is a different pivot bolt
 

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Blue orange is 185/315
Oem green green is 180/303
JMO it's not going to do the job. If you're looking to stall the shift hardly a difference between the G.G.
If you're not changing the primary then the purple purple @ 231/303 will get it done.
I ran the epi red and by doo spec it would be a 250 and it was fantastic but it was coil binding and appeared to prevent full shift of the secondary because the spring is a little too long.
 

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So after looking on Boss web today it looks like the unit's getting and not getting the clickers it's going to be hit and miss just so people know I also tried to copy this don't know if you'll be able to see it.
I like how earlier today it was impossible to put clickers on the ACE… 🤣 #fakenews
 

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Blue orange is 185/315
Oem green green is 180/303
JMO it's not going to do the job. If you're looking to stall the shift hardly a difference between the G.G.
If you're not changing the primary then the purple purple @ 231/303 will get it done.
I ran the epi red and by doo spec it would be a 250 and it was fantastic but it was coil binding and appeared to prevent full shift of the secondary because the spring is a little too long.
i was thinking your epi red was equivalent to the Dalton red 205/310, you mentioned doo 250 so I assume it is not the same. I am going back to stock helix with the Dalton red and a 170/350 primary. Do you think it needs the doo 231/303 if even needed with the primary spring change?
 

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i was thinking your epi red was equivalent to the Dalton red 205/310, you mentioned doo 250 so I assume it is not the same. I am going back to stock helix with the Dalton red and a 170/350 primary. Do you think it needs the doo 231/303 if even needed with the primary spring change?
Yea in the beginning when i ordered the epi red 205/310, like you i believed it would be the same as the Dalton 205/310.

I quickly found out there not even close. This is due to how epi measure their springs. So with talking to epi i was told when they measure there red spring at the Doo spec it would actually be a 250 start vs 205.

I also tested the Dalton 205/310 it was ok but not what i was looking for. Only a small difference from the oem G/G.

" Do you think it needs the doo 231/303 if even needed with the primary spring change? "

I can't say because what i like you may not.
I do agree with the stock helix vs the 44/40, i hated it and could not get it out fast enough.

So many ways to skin the cat here. I first started in the primary with the 170/350 and the oem G/G & the Dalton red, this helped my rpm but when getting off the gas and quickly back into it i found it still a little slow to recover.
Put that epi red in and wow it was instantaneous with zero delay and very, very hard pull.

Here's the but. Unfortunately i was not getting full shift out of my secondary with the red epi. I found the spring was too long and coil binding.
Also it in combination with the primary 170/350 i was now over revving.(that was a first ever)
I really like that spring and would still be running it if not for coil binding.

The closest spring i can find of any kind to the epi red 205(250) by doo spec would be the doo purple/purple 231.

Sooo this is what i switched to late last season. I also went back to the oem primary 170/300 because the 170/350 would over rev at times on cold days with the P/P.
Remember this is on my 900R XRS not a Mach, those arms change everything.

If you zoom in you can see how the red epi was coil binding.
It's between the Dalton red and P/P.
Glasses Shoe Automotive tire Table Eyewear
 

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That Doo purple/purple spring really does wake a sled up when on and off the throttle.
Can over rev on the hit though with it's high start rate.
It does seem to be working well. As for the over rev on the hit. There are so many variables in play from one sled to another it's impossible to keep track of everything from one to another.
Example i run a true ripsaw ll 2ply track. I see no over rev at the hit but i wouldn't be surprised if you get a rpm spike with the single ply ripsaw.
Like i said earlier that epi red spring was fun as hell. Too bad it coil binds.
 

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Yea in the beginning when i ordered the epi red 205/310, like you i believed it would be the same as the Dalton 205/310.

I quickly found out there not even close. This is due to how epi measure their springs. So with talking to epi i was told when they measure there red spring at the Doo spec it would actually be a 250 start vs 205.

I also tested the Dalton 205/310 it was ok but not what i was looking for. Only a small difference from the oem G/G.

" Do you think it needs the doo 231/303 if even needed with the primary spring change? "

I can't say because what i like you may not.
I do agree with the stock helix vs the 44/40, i hated it and could not get it out fast enough.

So many ways to skin the cat here. I first started in the primary with the 170/350 and the oem G/G & the Dalton red, this helped my rpm but when getting off the gas and quickly back into it i found it still a little slow to recover.
Put that epi red in and wow it was instantaneous with zero delay and very, very hard pull.

Here's the but. Unfortunately i was not getting full shift out of my secondary with the red epi. I found the spring was too long and coil binding.
Also it in combination with the primary 170/350 i was now over revving.(that was a first ever)
I really like that spring and would still be running it if not for coil binding.

The closest spring i can find of any kind to the epi red 205(250) by doo spec would be the doo purple/purple 231.

Sooo this is what i switched to late last season. I also went back to the oem primary 170/300 because the 170/350 would over rev at times on cold days with the P/P.
Remember this is on my 900R XRS not a Mach, those arms change everything.

If you zoom in you can see how the red epi was coil binding.
It's between the Dalton red and P/P.
View attachment 2007049
This is a reply that I enjoy reading the most with regards to clutching. Brilliant!
 

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2022 Renegade Adrenaline 900R
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236 Posts


Put together a clutch tool box
Just waiting on a grease tool
Found the box on sale at Wally world 20 usd


I am new to the P Drive
Ready to start Tuning
of course always with the help of the group of experienced guys on dootalk


Hey now
That just makes me HAPPY!!!!!

Not sure why, but it just makes me Happy in a very Manly way
That shows how simple us guys are
 

· boost junkie
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11,767 Posts
you dont need that big three prong thing when you have the goodwin quick tool.
the pdrive can be very hard to get the governor flange off...I recommend a puller
and dont forget the qrs tools
 
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2020 Renegade Enduro 900t, 2023 Renegade XRS 900r
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309 Posts


Put together a clutch tool box
Just waiting on a grease tool
Found the box on sale at Wally world 20 usd


I am new to the P Drive
Ready to start Tuning
of course always with the help of the group of experienced guys on dootalk


Hey now
Nice box, I have the greese injector and some experience with the P-drive. I can bring it to you if would like. Probably only 15 minutes away.
 
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