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you dont need that big three prong thing when you have the goodwin quick tool.
the pdrive can be very hard to get the governor flange off...I recommend a puller
and dont forget the qrs tools
300F in the oven before pounding the puller to get the governor flange off. Or if possible to ride the sled long enough to get the clutch up to temp and remove while it is still hot.
 

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300F in the oven before pounding the puller to get the governor flange off. Or if possible to ride the sled long enough to get the clutch up to temp and remove while it is still hot.
I have boiled a kettle and poured over it and it then popped off this has also worked for me when pulling the clutch just apply pressure with the puller pour boiling water on it and it pops.
 

· RPG
2022 Renegade X 900r Turbo
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Yea in the beginning when i ordered the epi red 205/310, like you i believed it would be the same as the Dalton 205/310.

I quickly found out there not even close. This is due to how epi measure their springs. So with talking to epi i was told when they measure there red spring at the Doo spec it would actually be a 250 start vs 205.

I also tested the Dalton 205/310 it was ok but not what i was looking for. Only a small difference from the oem G/G.

" Do you think it needs the doo 231/303 if even needed with the primary spring change? "

I can't say because what i like you may not.
I do agree with the stock helix vs the 44/40, i hated it and could not get it out fast enough.

So many ways to skin the cat here. I first started in the primary with the 170/350 and the oem G/G & the Dalton red, this helped my rpm but when getting off the gas and quickly back into it i found it still a little slow to recover.
Put that epi red in and wow it was instantaneous with zero delay and very, very hard pull.

Here's the but. Unfortunately i was not getting full shift out of my secondary with the red epi. I found the spring was too long and coil binding.
Also it in combination with the primary 170/350 i was now over revving.(that was a first ever)
I really like that spring and would still be running it if not for coil binding.

The closest spring i can find of any kind to the epi red 205(250) by doo spec would be the doo purple/purple 231.

Sooo this is what i switched to late last season. I also went back to the oem primary 170/300 because the 170/350 would over rev at times on cold days with the P/P.
Remember this is on my 900R XRS not a Mach, those arms change everything.

If you zoom in you can see how the red epi was coil binding.
It's between the Dalton red and P/P.
View attachment 2007049
Have you tried a steeper helix angle? Say 50/40?
 

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I haven't tried that one but it would be interesting to try. I tried the 44/40, 47/44, and CR11
The 47\40 still worked the best IMO
The 44/40 and CR 11 made it lazy
It would be fun to try that 50 with the purple purple or green green.
 
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· RPG
2022 Renegade X 900r Turbo
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1,245 Posts
I have a 50/42 left over from my 1200 days, think I’ll throw that on and give it a try as soon as the snow arrives. I’m using a dalton b/y/r torsional now but will probably throw the grn/grn in with the 50/42, I prefer the torsional but don’t know if it would work well with a 50+ helix. I guess I’ll end up trying both at some point. I think 50+ with a purple/purple would be interesting.
 

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Has anyone tried changing just the stock cooler to one of the larger ones? Like Precision or Hurricane?
If so, any improvements in performance?
Makes sense to me that it would help, but wondered if any real world experiences out there from last year.
I see on FB that they say that someone had major improvements with just the cooler changed, but wonder about that.
 
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