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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
900 ACE Header - Who has bought one & what where the results?
 

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have header and cudney P80 clutch kit. stock good holeshots and out of corners ok top end.after mods with 9 weights rpm at 8,100 clutch running hot,sled was not as good on trails as stock. 10 weights 7,600 rpm good holeshots very good out of corners topend only about 2-4 mph faster.if you can get a good spring for the E-drive i would stay with the stock clutch and header.most of my testing was done on the same day same conditions and test area using ULTAMAX XS BELT, 2 runs on stock doo belt no real differance. had clutch off sled many times over 3 days trying different setups,used radar,gps and runs with other sled plus seat of pants.some will not agree with me thats ok just my 2 cents worth.
 

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I would agree the edrive is a better clutch and can be tuned. Ran out of snow before I got the 7600 rpms I wanted but I came pretty close and at the end I was walking away from a 16 rene with a 15 rene. Will try to convince Dalton we need a slightly weaker primary spring. Have the mbrp can and I'll probably get the header for next year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm sticking with the stock clutch and tuning it with custom parts. Looking for a 900 ACE exhaust manifold to fabricate a custom header of my own design. If you have one you would like to donate or sell, please contact me.
 

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I'm sticking with the stock clutch and tuning it with custom parts. Looking for a 900 ACE exhaust manifold to fabricate a custom header of my own design. If you have one you would like to donate or sell, please contact me.
What do you mean by tuning with custom parts? One of parts designed by you? Or re-purposing parts from other sources? Curious about your custom header as well...
 

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Another way to increase rpms us to use the stock sacked out spring and grind an even amount off all 6 ramps. Or convince Dalton to get us the right spring. Basically we need to get these running at a consistent 7500 7600. Any thing more than that you get a zippy sled with no legs. The compromise is that middle ground. 8000 makes it feel faster and actually did make it a better corner to corner ripper. But 7600 will be the sweet spot for all around sportiness and top end legs. Got close but ran out of snow. ....the edrive will prove to be a better set up than the pb80.
 

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Another way to increase rpms us to use the stock sacked out spring and grind an even amount off all 6 ramps. Or convince Dalton to get us the right spring. Basically we need to get these running at a consistent 7500 7600. Any thing more than that you get a zippy sled with no legs. The compromise is that middle ground. 8000 makes it feel faster and actually did make it a better corner to corner ripper. But 7600 will be the sweet spot for all around sportiness and top end legs. Got close but ran out of snow. ....the edrive will prove to be a better set up than the pb80.
If we an get the aftermarket to support it......
 

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We have aftermarket springs that are a bit to strong holding rpms too high. What if we take one of those and weaken it a bit. Just a thought.
 

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A recent discussion in the 1200 forum led me to conclude that Polaris P-85 springs have about a 90% chance of fitting right into the E-drive. If I'm right? There's a whole world of springs out there at your disposal. Poo put that clutch into every sled from 550 fanners to 800 liquids....for many decades. Every spring rate you can dream of is available in those. Just food for thought for anyone wanting to crash-test-dummy my theory:

http://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/1275009-doo-clutch-springs/

VTX, I think you said you were were a former Cat guy who did clutching on them. Got any Cat springs laying around? As I recall all thru the 90's and 2000's it seems to me that many of the Cat springs weren't dimensionally much different from the P-85 springs. Wrong rates most likely since you said you used to run turbo stuff, and maybe those turbo clutches were different. But to simply test-fit the dimensions it might still give you some clues and ideas. Think outside the box a little and you might find that the spring selection you seek might very well already exist.

Whoever tries it please report back whether I was right or wrong. Genuinely curious.
 

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I will have to look into that. I thought our edrives took a special spring. I actually use a Polaris spring in my cat turbo. To bad we ran out of snow. I was having fun playing with different combinations. I tried 3 different secondary helixs 2 different secondary springs and the 2 different Dalton primary springs and taller gearing. Plus lightening up the front end 21 pounds.only got 2500 miles this winter on the little slot car racer. Still my favorite sled ever.the mighty turbo only saw 500 miles.
 

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I thought our edrives took a special spring.
It might. Let me be very clear I could be wrong. But a simple caliper and a spring tester taken to a Poo spring is 100% of what someone needs to confirm or refute this. Spring testers are easy to purchase, and dang near free to simply build with a common garage sale bathroom scale. Check out my hokey spring testing setup I whipped up on a cabin fever day:

http://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/707378-homemade-spring-tester-from-a-bathroom-scale-and-qrs-tool/

As goofy as that homemade tool is, I couldn't fathom chasing my tail trying to tune ANY clutch without using it. It has erased ALL questions about spring sacking, advertised rates, tolerances, coil binding, etc. I've learned that advertised spring rates are SOOOOOO incredibly wrong, so often, you'd be positively stunned. So many people buying springs for clutches THINK they are using a certain rate spring because of numbers they read in a catalog. Some of them are incorrectly labeled right out of the bag. Others test good but heat cycle a few times and suddenly they're nowhere NEAR their advertised rate anymore. I assure you most people who don't have spring testers are not using the spring they think they are using.

And I'll offer if someone wants to mail me a Polaris spring (or springs), I can compare all forces and measurements directly with a couple E-drive springs I still have laying around here (Doo and Dalton) and answer the question for certain, and then I'd mail back to ya. Just PM me and we'll figure it out. But if you really want to tune, I would strongly suggest getting/making your own spring test tool and doing your own testing.
 

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You need to do a muffler mod to really take advantage of the header. You also need a remap to get it to work properly. It's no different then the 1200. The gains are the same. With a header, muffler mod and a tune, you should be around 107-110hp.
 
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