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Maybe this has already been discussed, but is anyone else getting a vibration similar to a ratcheting sound while only going downhill? Sled kept in shop nightly so it’s not ice buildup, all suspension parts intact and nothing rubbing that I can see or bent that I’m aware of. Feels like it’s coming from the left side footwell but I can’t pinpoint it. Mine is a 17 165”, and while riding with a buddy today his has been doing the exact same thing, he has an18..
 
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your lugs probably are hitting the tunnel if your suspension is set up super soft (factory standard) look inside your tunnel if it's like mine or the new turbo I demoed over the weekend, they all have black marks from lugs hitting top and sides. There is 5 settings to pick from, crank it up. Also check track deflection, they stretch and get loose after awhile and require tightening periodically.
 

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So, I have had the same vibration/rubbing noise from day one on my '19 165. Thought it was track rubbing or ice build up. Neither. Tunnel is clean, no black marks. The first ride out on it I stopped and looked at the track alignment and noticed it was equal distance in the clips at the back of the sled but the front of the rails it is tight to the clutch side. Over several rides I tried adjusting and watching but nothing made it any better. The clips have worn the edge down on the rail tip protector on the clutch side now. I had the sled in the garage yesterday and figured I'd try and solve this misalignment at the front once and for all. Took the skid out checked it for square and it was off a hair over .25". Loosened all the cross shafts, squared it up, and tightened it all down. Skid is square now. Put it back in the sled, still tight to the clutch side no matter how much I adjust the back. At this point I think the front mount holes are off just a bit. I did measure the drivers and they are even and where they are suppose to be. I think what I might do is turn down the shaft spacer in the front right side just a bit to draw it back over to the right and get the alignment better. Just what I've found....
 

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I was just about to post the same question about my 20 Summit 850 154 2.5. I have the same thing happening in the same situation. I can understand the track ballooning at high speed and hitting the tunnel but I don't see how it could happen when coasting downhill.

One think I noticed is that the base of every outer lug and even on the hump between them the track is catching on something and getting cut on both sides

I have a skinz bumper and there is a bolt above and to the back of the upper idlers but I don't see how it could hit.
 

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I know this sounds crazy and most probably won't believe me but I had the same sound on my '18 165 for the first two years. Drove me nuts! as I'm sure it does you guys. My buddies '17 did not. I compared those sleds every which way and the only thing I could find was track tension. He basically had his tension just tight enough to prevent ratcheting. Mine was set to spec. I finally caved and started backing off my tension and I'll be damned if the sound didn't go away. I'm just guessing but I'm thinking the difference in track tension causes the clips to hit the front of the rails at a different angle when coasting downhill and that's the sound we're hearing.

It's worth a shot and easy to do in the field.
 

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I think my problem has to do with suspension setup. I set my gen 4 like my old rev was, soft front, stiff center, soft rear. I'm reading now that it should be opposite on Gen 4s.
 

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So, I have had the same vibration/rubbing noise from day one on my '19 165. Thought it was track rubbing or ice build up. Neither. Tunnel is clean, no black marks. The first ride out on it I stopped and looked at the track alignment and noticed it was equal distance in the clips at the back of the sled but the front of the rails it is tight to the clutch side. Over several rides I tried adjusting and watching but nothing made it any better. The clips have worn the edge down on the rail tip protector on the clutch side now. I had the sled in the garage yesterday and figured I'd try and solve this misalignment at the front once and for all. Took the skid out checked it for square and it was off a hair over .25". Loosened all the cross shafts, squared it up, and tightened it all down. Skid is square now. Put it back in the sled, still tight to the clutch side no matter how much I adjust the back. At this point I think the front mount holes are off just a bit. I did measure the drivers and they are even and where they are suppose to be. I think what I might do is turn down the shaft spacer in the front right side just a bit to draw it back over to the right and get the alignment better. Just what I've found....
so to add to this, i have a 19 freeride 165 3' and the alignment your speaking of on mine was so far off it destroyed a track in 50 ish miles, took it back and they had to replace the drivers because they were so far off to the clutch side that the track was running into the rear suspension mount on the left side.. the dealer in ER had to use three different drivers because they think there was a bad batch from skidoo that year. Now mine is still off a little bit (not nearly as bad as it was) and does hit those front clips and i had wondered if the holes are off a little as well, either that or the drivers still arnt perfect. side note is i have two washers on the front arm and im wondering the same as you, if i just move the right washer to the left side will is slide the thing over enough to straighten it up more and hopefully get rid of that vibration.
 

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So, I have had the same vibration/rubbing noise from day one on my '19 165. Thought it was track rubbing or ice build up. Neither. Tunnel is clean, no black marks. The first ride out on it I stopped and looked at the track alignment and noticed it was equal distance in the clips at the back of the sled but the front of the rails it is tight to the clutch side. Over several rides I tried adjusting and watching but nothing made it any better. The clips have worn the edge down on the rail tip protector on the clutch side now. I had the sled in the garage yesterday and figured I'd try and solve this misalignment at the front once and for all. Took the skid out checked it for square and it was off a hair over .25". Loosened all the cross shafts, squared it up, and tightened it all down. Skid is square now. Put it back in the sled, still tight to the clutch side no matter how much I adjust the back. At this point I think the front mount holes are off just a bit. I did measure the drivers and they are even and where they are suppose to be. I think what I might do is turn down the shaft spacer in the front right side just a bit to draw it back over to the right and get the alignment better. Just what I've found....
This is exactly how mine is even on the same side. The clips are wearing down the front outside skid bumper no matter how much I adjust the track. I thought about shimming the front swingarm over but unfortunately I don't think it will be enough with the way the swing arm mounts onto the skid.
 

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This is exactly how mine is even on the same side. The clips are wearing down the front outside skid bumper no matter how much I adjust the track. I thought about shimming the front swingarm over but unfortunately I don't think it will be enough with the way the swing arm mounts onto the skid.
So, I have had the same vibration/rubbing noise from day one on my '19 165. Thought it was track rubbing or ice build up. Neither. Tunnel is clean, no black marks. The first ride out on it I stopped and looked at the track alignment and noticed it was equal distance in the clips at the back of the sled but the front of the rails it is tight to the clutch side. Over several rides I tried adjusting and watching but nothing made it any better. The clips have worn the edge down on the rail tip protector on the clutch side now. I had the sled in the garage yesterday and figured I'd try and solve this misalignment at the front once and for all. Took the skid out checked it for square and it was off a hair over .25". Loosened all the cross shafts, squared it up, and tightened it all down. Skid is square now. Put it back in the sled, still tight to the clutch side no matter how much I adjust the back. At this point I think the front mount holes are off just a bit. I did measure the drivers and they are even and where they are suppose to be. I think what I might do is turn down the shaft spacer in the front right side just a bit to draw it back over to the right and get the alignment better. Just what I've found....
Finally found the right thread here! My '20 154 is doing the same thing, noticed it pretty much right away on first rides from day one as well. Started off with just a slight vibration and rubbing noise like you describe. Front rail tip protector on clutch side has also been worn down by clips by 4th ride of the season, but not worn enough to stop the rubbing quite yet. Thanks for doing all the hard work trying to figure yours out, and sharing the results. I will try adjusting both track and then suspension as mentioned by some to see if that makes any difference, but it still doesn't make sense that it seems to be a clutch side issue only. I am curious if you or anyone else has managed to fix the issue entirely?
 

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Finally found the right thread here! My '20 154 is doing the same thing, noticed it pretty much right away on first rides from day one as well. Started off with just a slight vibration and rubbing noise like you describe. Front rail tip protector on clutch side has also been worn down by clips by 4th ride of the season, but not worn enough to stop the rubbing quite yet. Thanks for doing all the hard work trying to figure yours out, and sharing the results. I will try adjusting both track and then suspension as mentioned by some to see if that makes any difference, but it still doesn't make sense that it seems to be a clutch side issue only. I am curious if you or anyone else has managed to fix the issue entirely?
We are loaded to head west in a day so I'll find out soon. At the end of last season I took it in to the dealer for a new recoil and to check out the rubbing. Got it back with a new rail tip bumper and was told that they realigned the skid. Not overly optimistic though as I've been riding a long time and aligning a skid isn't exactly rocket surgery... ;)
 

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We are loaded to head west in a day so I'll find out soon. At the end of last season I took it in to the dealer for a new recoil and to check out the rubbing. Got it back with a new rail tip bumper and was told that they realigned the skid. Not overly optimistic though as I've been riding a long time and aligning a skid isn't exactly rocket surgery... ;)
I will be interested to know if there are any changes with the dealer aligning your skid and putting on that new rail tip. "eternalwinter" seems to have done everything possible in that regard but still the clips were tight to the clutch side. I am interested to know what you or anyone else having this issue have set their shocks/torsion springs at? I know it's all rider weight and preference and doesn't address the one sided wear but just curious. I hope you post your findings after your ride out west.
 

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I will be interested to know if there are any changes with the dealer aligning your skid and putting on that new rail tip. "eternalwinter" seems to have done everything possible in that regard but still the clips were tight to the clutch side. I am interested to know what you or anyone else having this issue have set their shocks/torsion springs at? I know it's all rider weight and preference and doesn't address the one sided wear but just curious. I hope you post your findings after your ride out west.
Well it's not any better that's for sure. Just got back and after a week I'm seeing a some wear on the front left rail bumper again. The sled is super smooth on the trail out or on snow that is a little more set up but get it in bottomless powder and that's when you really notice the vibration. Almost like the alignment is moving as the track balloons some in the soft snow under power. Once the snow melts off I'll dig into it some more.
 

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So, I too have been still trying to figure this out still. Took it to the dealer, they looked at it and agreed that it looks off but they couldn't figure out where. No bends, kinks, or ovaled holes... Said just keep riding it and if it causes problems to bring it back for warranty... Well, IT'S STILL FRICKEN ANNOYING.... Anyway, since then I have taken the drive axle out checked that it's straight, drivers aren't ovaled, and drivers are in the correct spot on shaft +/- .5mm. So, that's not it. Changed the bearing on the shaft as well.

Put everything back together and aligned the track the best I could. As before, at the back the track is running true/centered on the skid while the front is tight to the clutch side. I did find that the front arm has about .045" movement side to side. With the bolts tight and the bushings tight to the internal shaft I was able to move the front arm side to side. If I pushing it all the way to the right(chaincase) side the track seemed to align better front and back. Clips were even to the hifax. It's almost like it needs a .040" shim to keep the upper arm to the right. Might make one and try it.

After I did take it for a ride I tried different tensions to see what quieted it down most. Loose was not the way. The tighter I made it the less vibration.

Keep sharing the ideas.
 

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So, I too have been still trying to figure this out still. Took it to the dealer, they looked at it and agreed that it looks off but they couldn't figure out where. No bends, kinks, or ovaled holes... Said just keep riding it and if it causes problems to bring it back for warranty... Well, IT'S STILL FRICKEN ANNOYING.... Anyway, since then I have taken the drive axle out checked that it's straight, drivers aren't ovaled, and drivers are in the correct spot on shaft +/- .5mm. So, that's not it. Changed the bearing on the shaft as well.

Put everything back together and aligned the track the best I could. As before, at the back the track is running true/centered on the skid while the front is tight to the clutch side. I did find that the front arm has about .045" movement side to side. With the bolts tight and the bushings tight to the internal shaft I was able to move the front arm side to side. If I pushing it all the way to the right(chaincase) side the track seemed to align better front and back. Clips were even to the hifax. It's almost like it needs a .040" shim to keep the upper arm to the right. Might make one and try it.

After I did take it for a ride I tried different tensions to see what quieted it down most. Loose was not the way. The tighter I made it the less vibration.

Keep sharing the ideas.
What I can't really figure out is why it is magnified in powder conditions under load. On my sled lift and spinning the track I am closer to the clutch side rail bumper but definitely not touching it? Is the T-motion moving enough to sway the alignment?
 

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What I can't really figure out is why it is magnified in powder conditions under load. On my sled lift and spinning the track I am closer to the clutch side rail bumper but definitely not touching it? Is the T-motion moving enough to sway the alignment?
so the only thing i can think of (when i start to feel the rubbing) is when the tunnel is packed with snow. I've also notice that on those days the measurement from dropdown - track - dropdown does shift slightly. I suppose this could be from the t-motion. but those dropdown brackets and the area around them can get incredibly packed with snow, and i wonder if this is happening farther up the tunnel as well, or possibly pushing the track left/right a little. I have yet to move the front swing arm over. ( my tracks no longer destroying itself. so i almost don't want to fart with it any more).

/shrug
 

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I was just digging into this again because I still haven't figured it out after 600 miles and was surprised to see this thread revived.

The wear tips on the skid are barely touched. The external drivers are slightly off center with the track cheated to the clutch side but there is no unusual wear in the drivers or clips. This could be the way it's sitting because I can shift the track left and right a bit.

With the 3.50 pitch track it looks like only 2-3 driver teeth are engaging the track at any given time. Could it just be noisy because of that, like a ratchet with more teeth is smoother and quieter than one with fewer teeth?

Or could it be that the opposite side of the drivers is engaging the track when rolling down hill and since they don't see much action they're not worn in? Or maybe we just notice it because the sled is quiet since we're not on the throttle?
 

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Had the same problem, track was out of alignment. Set adjuster bolts to same measurement.

Noise gone.
This is probably one of the first things we've all done, but I have a question to clarify. After doing this was the gap between the clips and slides the same on both sides and front to back?

Typically tension is set by making the adjuster bolts the same length, then one or the other are tweaked to align the track with the skid.
 

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This is probably one of the first things we've all done, but I have a question to clarify. After doing this was the gap between the clips and slides the same on both sides and front to back?

Typically tension is set by making the adjuster bolts the same length, then one or the other are tweaked to align the track with the skid.
I adjusted in the parking lot so still have to double check. It was aligned and centered between the upper brackets at tunnel.Need to check track at sliders still.
 
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