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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Picked up a new-to-me 2018 Renegade Backcountry X with an 850 and went to perform maintenance and prep for the season. Found pretty much everything to be loose after my initial test ride and had heard clear ratcheting from my drivers. I tensioned the track to spec which is 30mm gap with 15lbs of preload. Also did the alignment. Went out to run again and am still getting the faintest of ratcheting at WOT. I need some help here, do these drivers look overly worn to anybody? Note the sled has just over 4000 miles or 6500kms on it.
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No they are fine. You should see mine. LOL. They take a beating under there.
 
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Avid drivers much stronger

Sent from my SM-A526U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No they are fine. You should see mine. LOL. They take a beating under there.
Good to know. I'm trying to track down a noise coming from the left side that only occurs at WOT. It changed when I adjusted my chain tension from being loose to now being proper, checked for loose bolts, etc. Literally nothing I do can seem to stop this ridiculous noise. Now it's not even at WOT but seemingly when the sled is up to speed making me believe maybe something is loose in the primary or secondary.
 

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Honestly... these Gen4 chassis are L/H noisy sun of a guns. We are so far forward now sitting over top of the drive shaft... with open foot rest...you can hear every dang noise coming off the drive shaft and brake rotor. It will drive you nuts. Throw a little tunnel ice in on top of the Gen 4 left hand noises and you will pull your hair out looking for it.
 

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If it's lower left side and easier to hear if you move your leg/foot outward, and you've checked everything else over and all looks good...then it's most likely brake rotor rattle which is very common. Some have had good luck at curing the rotor rattle by added a shim or an o-ring between the rotor and c-clip to take up the slack between the rotor/bearing/c-clip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If it's lower left side and easier to hear if you move your leg/foot outward, and you've checked everything else over and all looks good...then it's most likely brake rotor rattle which is very common. Some have had good luck at curing the rotor rattle by added a shim or an o-ring between the rotor and c-clip to take up the slack between the rotor/bearing/c-clip.
Really...the brake of all things. Well, I know what I'm doing tomorrow!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Honestly... these Gen4 chassis are L/H noisy sun of a guns. We are so far forward now sitting over top of the drive shaft... with open foot rest...you can hear every dang noise coming off the drive shaft and brake rotor. It will drive you nuts. Throw a little tunnel ice in on top of the Gen 4 left hand noises and you will pull your hair out looking for it.
I agree with you. I have put on under 200 kms thus far and all I have done is find more stuff that wasn't properly taken care of before they released the machines. I mean gosh, I found that random 10mm in the chaincase at the base to be loose and was literally almost completely backed out of the casing. I have run XP chassis machines with 600s and 800 etecs for close to 10 years with minimal maintenance(mostly due to not knowing any better at the time) but even all that being said, they still lasted and held up fine with no random noises that would start to occur seemingly out of nowhere. My first gen 4 and it's a basket case of weird issues that were absolutely errors on the part of BRP.
 

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Brake rotor chatter is usually only noticeable at low speeds, at least in my experience
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Once I have it apart, I'll update. Should be headed back to it in the coming days.
 

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I have seen a few undercarriages smashed in hitting the brake rotor.Also can lube
rotor splines with anti seize a renew o-ring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well I'm not certain as I haven't gone to test it yet but I believe I have it figured out. Everyone saying check the brake rotor appears to have been correct. I found that it wiggled slightly behind the circlip and was pretty loose on the splines. The looseness on the splines I'm hoping won't be the problem but I was able to put a metal shim between the circlip and the rotor itself. It definitely took some persuasion to get it on but once it was back on properly, the play was entirely gone. Crossing my fingers and going for a small test run shortly.
 

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The sound of things vibrating on the left side or in general are either the brake rotor, clutch guard rattle, pdrive itself or the plastic guard that is over the oil tank connected to the felt or exhaust springs.

Shim the brake rotor
3m thin foam on the clutch guard locking pin
Pdrive stock form the weights rattle, with aftermarket like hrss ramps for example at idle they they don't
Plastic guard over oil tank connected to foam either remove altogether or use bolts in place of the plastic crap pins.
Exhaust springs place hi-temp silicone bead don the spring and allow to harden.

👍 I have it all done and no noise other than engine sweetness..
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The sound of things vibrating on the left side or in general are either the brake rotor, clutch guard rattle, pdrive itself or the plastic guard that is over the oil tank connected to the felt or exhaust springs.

Shim the brake rotor
3m thin foam on the clutch guard locking pin
Pdrive stock form the weights rattle, with aftermarket like hrss ramps for example at idle they they don't
Plastic guard over oil tank connected to foam either remove altogether or use bolts in place of the plastic crap pins.
Exhaust springs place hi-temp silicone bead don the spring and allow to harden.

👍 I have it all done and no noise other than engine sweetness..
I'll be doing the foam on the clutch guard lock pin as well. Thanks for those tips! Glad to know that I'll finally be able to run it with no noises driving me up a wall!
 
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