[Mi_fiveo]

My problem child 800R Ptek left me stranded today. Luckily I was only a mile from the truck and was able to get it back home. It started and idled fine while warming up and after I took off it felt normal. At about 45 mph it died instantly and I slowed to a stop. It didn’t make any weird noises or anything so I turned the clutch over by hand and it seemed kind of easy to do but I’m not sure what normal is. I started it and it idled kind of ****ty and I was able to get going again but it died again on me. When I got it home I pulled each plug and checked for spark and I had spark on each plug wire. I put new plugs in and it didn’t change anything. I took the plug out of the crank side and started it up, the engine runs the same without that plug in so I’m pretty sure it’s only running on one cylinder. There was some backfiring going on before I shut it off. I’m not sure if I’m having a fuel delivery issue or if I lost compression. I don’t have a compression tester. I did check and grease the crank bearing a few hundred miles ago and it looked good to the eye. I used the recommended amount of Isoflex grease and a new seal. There are no check engine lights on the dash but the dess beeps at me because it only idles at around 1000-800 rpm’s currently. Any thoughts or ideas on possible problems or is my engine toast? Initial thoughts are maybe a plugged fuel filter or sock, or bad rings. Thanks for any help or suggestions.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[xcrsp440]

Go buy or rent a compression tester. You have spark, seem to have fuel if it will run on one cylinder, compression is next step.

 

[Mi_fiveo]

Everyone I know cautioned me not to buy an 800 ptek time bomb. I didn’t listen and bought this machine with 1500 miles on the dash which is most likely a lie. I did get about 200 miles out of it before she lost the pto side cylinder.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Daag44]

Mcb has quality engingine rebuild kits.

 

[XrsRene]

That stinks. Hopefully a top end over the summer will get you going again

 

[Daag44]

It could have been old gas or poor rebuild or coolant ingestion, who knows. With a good solid rebuild it should do fine. If you plan on a rebuild, there are many things to check before removing any bolt. I always find something that I would have missed had I torn it apart blindly. I mark each head and cylinder bolt with a sharpie so when I find one that is loose, then I know by how much since I have its initial position.

 

[xcrsp440]

Before it comes apart you need to do a couple things. Build a leak down test and find out where the engine is leaking. Also get a dial indicator and measure crank run out.
Simply putting a new top end in it, will give you a failure again.
Like finding your car with a flat tire. Then adding air and be surprised it goes flat again.

 

[Mi_fiveo]

I almost feel like I have to rebuild it since it isn’t worth crap now. However I think I would be inclined to sell it after and jump on the 1200 4 stroke bandwagon for the impressive reliability vs these 2 strokes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Daag44]

Good idea on getting rid of it. Quick & dirty rebuild for a resale and let the next owner worry about it. Maybe he will end up here next season lol Or just let it go to someone less fortunate with the hope it gets put together with good parts.

 

[Mi_fiveo]

I don’t want to time bomb it for the next guy but I don’t think I trust it to be reliable either. As far as a leak down test I’m not exactly sure what it entails but I’m going to look into it. It had new grease in the crank bearing and a new seal. I haven’t looked into the carb boots but from what i have read it is usually one of those two things that causes the failure. Anything else I need to know?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[xcrsp440]

Lots of videos on leak down tests. You can build one from parts at hardware stores. If you use a mityvac, it already has a pressure gauge and pump built it.
But maybe if available, just buy a new shortblock and be done. My thoughts on the economics of spending money on toys.
I had an 03 600 HO, maybe 6000 miles on it. Crankseal came loose and 1 cylinder was low on compression. My options sell as is and by another used sled, or try and rebuild myself, or a new skidoo engine.
I spent the money on a new motor. I loved the sled, I had put a new track on it, gone through the clutches, rebuilt the skid and shocks.
There was no way I could afford or want to pay the price of a new sled. Buying another used sled left me at the mercy of the unknown.
The new motor was way cheaper than a used sled and I had a known product when I was done. That same sled had 10k miles on when I sold it. Never gave me a moments trouble after the new engine.

 

[Daag44]

Lots of videos on leak down tests. You can build one from parts at hardware stores. If you use a mityvac, it already has a pressure gauge and pump built it.

But maybe if available, just buy a new shortblock and be done. My thoughts on the economics of spending money on toys.

I had an 03 600 HO, maybe 6000 miles on it. Crankseal came loose and 1 cylinder was low on compression. My options sell as is and by another used sled, or try and rebuild myself, or a new skidoo engine.
I spent the money on a new motor. I loved the sled, I had put a new track on it, gone through the clutches, rebuilt the skid and shocks.

There was no way I could afford or want to pay the price of a new sled. Buying another used sled left me at the mercy of the unknown.

The new motor was way cheaper than a used sled and I had a known product when I was done. That same sled had 10k miles on when I sold it. Never gave me a moments trouble after the new engine.

I am reminded of only a few years ago when Two Revs was still around to help us out with his take on using BRP shortblocks. I really miss him, but somehow I think he would be glad you stayed, and so am I.