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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally got through breakin mode today (490 miles)Took my sled down the lake and it turns 7800 rpm's and drops to 7600.2016 800.What is everyone else turning?My sled is 100% stock.The lake has a small amount of wind blown snow on it and some areas are just ice but not for long enough for the hyfax to heat up.
 

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uh oh........almost sounds like the dreaded power fade has reared its ugly head, again ! probably not, if you haven't done it yet, it's probably time to wipe down those clutches and tighten the belt up a touch. all will be good. I'm still driving my antique '12 X, is the shift rpm higher now than the 7900 mine is supposed to run ? 500 miles is a great time to give the entire sled the once over, as all the moving parts have gotten to know each other. clicker #3 is supposed to give best all around performance, so I try to save clicker adjustments for poor conditions, like bad air, when the motor just can't make enough power for the clutching. I'm sure if you clean the clutches and belt, set the belt tension correctly, I always lean towards the tighter side for best performance, you'll find those missing rpms without giving up any pull or backshifting. good luck, enjoy, and I'm jealous of your ride !
 

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Finally got through breakin mode today (490 miles)Took my sled down the lake and it turns 7800 rpm's and drops to 7600.2016 800.What is everyone else turning?My sled is 100% stock.The lake has a small amount of wind blown snow on it and some areas are just ice but not for long enough for the hyfax to heat up.
What engine temp (5 bars begins to pull timing and in most cases rpm)
 

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As stated above turn ciickers up, the stock 130-260 primary springs can be inconsistent, I have couple lightly used ones on my bench that are different.
 

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With the stock clutching and everything else running normally I have never had to click up from 3. If it ran 3 before it should run 3 now. Exceptions to that would be snow conditions, warm weather, etc. Most of the time I ride it out. If it's warm outside and the sled is only pulling 7800 during the day it usually recovers that night when the temp drops back down and the snow stiffens up. If your sled requires a click up to 4 permanently for any condition to maintain rpm you have something to address. It may be belt wear or clutch faces, belt deflection or something else. I haven't had an OEM spring sack out during or even after break-in. That would be rare. I can tell you that the throttle position and rave position do vary after break-in. Not due to break-in but due to cable stretch, etc. The last several sleds I've owned were in the low to mid 90 percentile for throttle position when I took them in to the dealer after break-in. I've also had Raves that weren't fully opening in the past and required a voltage adjustment.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Was the belt.I had never had a belt stretch and glaze over anything like this one was.I cleaned everything put on a Gates 266 adjusted the tension and 8000 rpm's.
 

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Was the belt.I had never had a belt stretch and glaze over anything like this one was.I cleaned everything put on a Gates 266 adjusted the tension and 8000 rpm's.
I'd bet you still end up putting in new springs. I chased RPMs on my 800 too, no matter what belt I ran. New springs fixed it.
 

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Was the belt.I had never had a belt stretch and glaze over anything like this one was.I cleaned everything put on a Gates 266 adjusted the tension and 8000 rpm's.
Tra 7's run hot the first 3-400 miles and can doom whatever belt you are using. It is nice to pull the new belt off and break-in with a used that you do not mind parting with.
 
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