[Dynamo^Joe]

I have a 2005 440 chassis w/2003/800 engine installed.

I run Aaen pipe system and have to run 55 pilots to keep rpms at 2000 for idle.

Lately the idle has been going up to 3000, then 3500, then 4200 and ok this is ridiculous.
I look down at the crank seal and it's rubbing against the clutch.

I pull the clutch off and pull the seal out with my fingers, there the crank bearing grease is all grey, it should be at least some white in it, nope, stinky burnt smell and all silver grey.

Im cleaning the bearing and what-the-fk-is-goin on...the outer race of the bearing is able to spin in the case.

I pull the engine out and strip it down today. Hmm, looks like there was a previous crank failure and a few other bits of turbulence with the owner before me.

I try the bare crank in the block and see that there is clearance, the bearing spun in there before.

Im pissd, only 550 miles on it and this happens.
I already drill/tap the block to make a seal retainer.

How can I fix this? Every time you get on the gas the bearing is going to end up touching the backside of the case and im sure it strains the crank bending in a torsional load like that. The bearing vibrating against the case causing more aluminum material to wear away and contaminate the grease.

Do i have to buy new cases?
Can I use green bearing loctite to take up the clearance?
I wonder if there is a Timken ABEC bearing with larger outer race diameter to take up the room left over.
heh heh heh, wrap super thin shimstock around the bearing when i put the cases together?

ARRGHHHH, im missing some bitchin riding as the snow up here is darn deep now.

 

[Roamer7]

I have a 2005 440 chassis w/2003/800 engine installed.

I run Aaen pipe system and have to run 55 pilots to keep rpms at 2000 for idle.

Lately the idle has been going up to 3000, then 3500, then 4200 and ok this is ridiculous.
I look down at the crank seal and it's rubbing against the clutch.

I pull the clutch off and pull the seal out with my fingers, there the crank bearing grease is all grey, it should be at least some white in it, nope, stinky burnt smell and all silver grey.

Im cleaning the bearing and what-the-fk-is-goin on...the outer race of the bearing is able to spin in the case.

I pull the engine out and strip it down today. Hmm, looks like there was a previous crank failure and a few other bits of turbulence with the owner before me.

I try the bare crank in the block and see that there is clearance, the bearing spun in there before.

Im pissd, only 550 miles on it and this happens.
I already drill/tap the block to make a seal retainer.

How can I fix this? Every time you get on the gas the bearing is going to end up touching the backside of the case and im sure it strains the crank bending in a torsional load like that. The bearing vibrating against the case causing more aluminum material to wear away and contaminate the grease.

Do i have to buy new cases?
Can I use green bearing loctite to take up the clearance?
I wonder if there is a Timken ABEC bearing with larger outer race diameter to take up the room left over.
heh heh heh, wrap super thin shimstock around the bearing when i put the cases together?

ARRGHHHH, im missing some bitchin riding as the snow up here is darn deep now.

[snapback]701989[/snapback]​

These guys fix cases on an exchange basis. Likely your most cost effective fix.

http://www.atelieradrienbernard.com/contenu/index_ang.cfm

 

[Dynamo^Joe]

holy....

$618 bones..

 

[kingofl337]

Make a bearing shim get some strips of .0005" and .0001" metal sheet and wrap it around the outer bearing. Use a few drops of black loctite to hold everything together. Careful with the black loctite though if you get it in the bearing you'll be bumming.

 

[boondocker01]

I've used the bearing set loctite and it worked the pin in the bearing keeps it from spinning clean it up real good

 

[Dynamo^Joe]

Make a bearing shim get some strips of .0005" and .0001" metal sheet and wrap it around the outer bearing. Use a few drops of black loctite to hold everything together. Careful with the black loctite though if you get it in the bearing you'll be bumming.

[snapback]702088[/snapback]​

Hi...Can you tell me what the number the black loctite is?
I will see if my mill has it in stores. he he he

 

[papi]

your best thing to do would be to send the base for a line bore as well as the crank to be trued ,all this can be done at atelier bernard

 

[PootoDoo]

I think that the green Loctite bearing retainer will work. You could also run a bearing that has a pin and drill the case to accept the pin. What are the inner seals like ?

P.S Where's the 06 800x roller kits ???

Do you have pics of the AAEN pipe and can installed on the sled ?

 

[vettezr1]

Unfortunatly the pin idea is great but if he has to much play in it (the race) it will pull the bearing to one side even a few K can cuase bigger problems .
kingofl337 has it right its the best temp fix there is , you can even pin it if he wants for added protection but I think its way over kill do what kingofl337 says you are going for a uniform fit here so try and use a full 360% piece all the way around and us the loctite to hold verything together , its the best temp fix you can do we have engines dirt bikes , jet skis that have this fix and the customers have left it like that for years. the trick is to get the race in there as tight as you can so it will not spin again. kingofl337 I take it from your advice you have been there also , lol

 

[WeTDrEaM]

I would definetly put a pin in it Joey. I actually have a bad crank here from a 670 that I could pull a pin out of and mail it to you if necessary.

I think a better solution than the metal around the bearing would be to use the heat resistant teflon tape. It's plyable and you can make it whatever thickness you need by adding more layers. Just my $.02

Let me know on that pin...

 

[REV_X_MAN]

I think that the green Loctite bearing retainer will work. You could also run a bearing that has a pin and drill the case to accept the pin. What are the inner seals like ?

P.S Where's the 06 800x roller kits ???

Do you have pics of the AAEN pipe and can installed on the sled ?

[snapback]702981[/snapback]​

We use the green loctite at work when bearings get a little loose in their bore

 

[bigredder]

Make a bearing shim get some strips of .0005" and .0001" metal sheet and wrap it around the outer bearing. Use a few drops of black loctite to hold everything together. Careful with the black loctite though if you get it in the bearing you'll be bumming.

[snapback]702088[/snapback]​

Hi...Can you tell me what the number the black loctite is?
I will see if my mill has it in stores. he he he

[snapback]702144[/snapback]​

Joe: your post asks about a temp. fix? Snowtime-she be a burnin' eh? This is gonna sound like a barn job, but has worked many a time. In your tool box, get that little center punch and lightly edit for bad language punch all around the bearing surface in the case. This will raise the surface to hold the bearings outer race. Kinda like knurling valve guides in the old days. Skip any loctite or shims. At operating temp. the aluminum case expands more than the steel bearing anyway, that's whyfor the locating pin. The older motors used to have an O-ring around the outer race to accomodate the expansion differences but they learned the pin was enough. Hope this helps!

 

[BellevilleMXZ]

Do i have to buy new cases?

Thats the right way

wrap super thin shimstock around the bearing when i put the cases together?

That would work too, if you were careful to use the right thickness.

 

[MX-Z Man]

Make a bearing shim get some strips of .0005" and .0001" metal sheet and wrap it around the outer bearing. Use a few drops of black loctite to hold everything together. Careful with the black loctite though if you get it in the bearing you'll be bumming.

[snapback]702088[/snapback]​

Hi...Can you tell me what the number the black loctite is?
I will see if my mill has it in stores. he he he

[snapback]702144[/snapback]​

Joe: your post asks about a temp. fix? Snowtime-she be a burnin' eh? This is gonna sound like a barn job, but has worked many a time. In your tool box, get that little center punch and lightly edit for bad language punch all around the bearing surface in the case. This will raise the surface to hold the bearings outer race. Kinda like knurling valve guides in the old days.

[snapback]703195[/snapback]​

Thats what I was thinking too. I'm thinking the aliminum will rise up nicely too - although a little lock-tite might not be a bad thing to add as well.