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Mod'n is my thing
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Since I get this question PM'd to me on a weekly basis I'm going to put it all down here for you to research.

Here's the list of parts you need for taking your race 440 to the trail.
Adding the big tank and even putting on oil injection if you want.

Parts are found on Ingles Performance online microfische but I prefer to buy used if I can. Place a wanted add on here or some of the other forums to help in finding yourself the needed parts.

Low Comp Domes 420-923-870
I send my high comp ones to Union Bay Racing and they mill them down to the LC specs. About half the cost of buying the factory LC ones.

Clear Tank 10.5 gallons 440/Summit 861302200 $165.97

Longer fuel pickup hose 513033070 $4.97

Clamps for hose (2) 513033010 $2.47

EDIT: 2001 Arctic Cat 440 Sno Pro Throttle cable seems to be the best choice now.

You can use the 2002 Arctic Cat 440 Sno Pro Cable
0687-142 is the Cat part number. The 02 Cat cable is very long.

You can use any of these oil pumps off a 2002 for the best fit.
OR you can use a 2003 or newer 6/800 pump with some bending of the cable mounting arm if need be (depends on throttle cable).

2002 600 Oil Pump 420888780 $204.97
OR
2002 700/800 Oil Pump 420888770 $204.97

Pump O-RING 293300041 $2.47

Hose to hook it up to the motor (inlet check valves are already on your 440)

Hose-Oil 414413800 $2.47/ft

Oil Tank off Any REV chassis. Prefer to buy used so you don't have to buy all these parts separate.
Not listed is the fasteners.

Oil Tank 519000111 $62.47

Oil Cap 519000033 $12.47

Oil Filter 414536500 $5.97

Clamp, spring 414420700 $0.43

Clamp, spring (3) 414415200 $0.50

Hose 415080700 $6.97/ft

Spring 519000064 $2.47

Spring 519000065 $2.47

Ring, insulated 570023000 $2.47

Clamp, spring 414554800 (2) $0.50

Polyurethane Hose 415080200 $4.97/ft

Grommet 513032908 $2.47

Sheet, Reflective 519000054 $3.47

Sheet, Reflective 519000072 $3.47

Grommet 513032908 $2.47

Check Valve 2755000398 $5.97

Level Switch 515176327 $30.97

******For 04-05 440's you need to get the 03 needle********
Tried the 04 needle and it has terrible midrange and fuel economy.
 

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Mod'n is my thing
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Pic of oil tank and components. This bolts right on your sled in place of the aluminum mpem holder you have now. Just remove the holder and add this tank setup. The mpem will be held on top of the tank now.

Make sure you route your coolant hoses to the outside of the tank towards the brake rotor so your airbox has room to mount. Sometimes its very tight and you may need a longer coolant hose from a std REV.

It is best to remove your gas tank when installing the oil tank.
It is necessary to remove your exhaust so you can unbolt your motor and tip it forward for access to the oil pump mounting area. Unbolt the blockoff plate and unhook the small oil lines so you can hook them up to the pump.
Don't forget to loosen the pump bleed screw to remove the air bubbles while filling the tank.
After it's all hooked up, put some oil in your first tank of gas to ensure safety.
Always hold the pump open during first startup using a long screwdriver for at least one minute of idling to fill the small oil lines.
 

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Here is the 02 oil pump mounted on your motor with the oil lines hooked up.

NOTE: Cable is not on permantly yet...needs the white washer and clip.
Also, the motor is just sitting on the mount which is not being used for this setup.

WASHER-FLAT DIN.125A
234081100
$0.15

CIRCLIP-TYPE BS N
414753500
$0.43
 

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Here is a pic of the tank mounted. The wire you see should also run over the coolant hoses in the small space between the tank and the brake rotor. Use some plastic shielding for it and the hose as well to protect it from the brake heat.
 

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Hooking up the throttle cable can be kinda tricky. Sometimes the screws holding the top of the carbs on are very tight and strip easily. I use one of them screw driver tools that you pound on with a hammer to get them started. I usually replace them with stainless allen head cap screws.

Hold the spring using some needle nose pliers helps hold the spring compressed so you can unhook the end and hook on the new one. Make sure the white plastic piece is in the right spot when you put it back together and it is fully seated. When the carb is apart I usually remove the needle to see if the clip is in #3 spot (middle position).

I also put in #35 pilot jets at this time and #340 mains to start with.

While the carbs are off I usually add a ATACC and some use the Tempaflow from Holtzman Eng. http://www.holtzmaneng.com They compensate for temp changes and the Atacc does that plus altitude similar to a DPM system. The jetting stays more consitant while using those products.

ATACC : (Automatic Temperature and Altitude Carburetor Compensator) This compensator will automatically keep your carbs tuned through all temperatures and elevation changes of up to 8000 feet (2400 meters). The standard compensator is set initially for operation with -20F (-29C) carb jetting for use with snowmobiles, but can be set to use with any jetting temperature. It is also easily set for any operating base (minimum) altitude. This compensator is recommended for the mountain rider who wants to play, not jet.

MIKUNI 34mm SNOPRO
Using a drill press and vise, thru drill 15/64 (.234)" centered .325" to engine side of center of vent casting and .21" above float bowl casting. Apply adhesive and press vacuum fitting firmly against carb. Optional Slide Modification: In line with and on the same side as the vacuum fitting, mill the lower edge of the slide .25" wide by .175" tall. This is a notch in the lower slide edge adjacent the vacuum fitting. Verify free movement of slide.
 

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Clutching info on my 04 sled with trail domes, #5 base gasket, 330 mains, #35 pilots with about 145PSI compression:

TRAIII:
Pink/white spring
Goodwin Adjustable pins about 13.8g
427 ramps

Team Secondary:
Stock spring: red/dk blue
Delrin washer
64/44/46 helix

Engagement about 4900 and goes right to 8500 every time. Very responsive and fun to ride with stock gearing.

05 setup is still up in the air, but hopefully will be getting one of Dynamo Joe's Team helix's to run.

Primary has 435 ramps in 05
 

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My 2004 440 for trail riding was setup for me (#240lb rider).

Left the front shocks stock and removed sway bar.

Rear skid: removed 3 large compression washers and 3 rebound washers from each shock. Much improvement in the stutter bumps. Probably could go even less on the compression for lighter riders. 2 to 4 turns out on the fast and slow speed screws.

2005....yet to be ridden. Leaving stock until I see where the baseline is.
 

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Awesome, thanks a ton Chuck! Can somebody confirm in this diagram - is #11 the piece of coolant hose needed to wrap around the oil tank? (Diagram is for an '03 600ho)
 

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HOSE-OUT.ENG. Std REV hose
509000334
$14.97

OUTLET HOSE from a Summit
509000215
$30.97

The Summit one may fit better and may only need to be cut on the head side. The 6/800's have the hose coming in from the bottom up between the jugs and the 440 has is coming straight out is the reason.

The cheaper hose from a Std REV will work too with some cutting.

Best to try to just use your 440 hose first to see if you can make it reach or just add a splice to it to make it longer.

EDIT: I put a full cooler in my 440 (for future 800 drop in). Doing that I used the 800 coolant hoses and then took a chunk out of the 440 hose that runs to the head and spliced it right into the end of the 800 hose so it could make the turn easily.
Now when I want to go to the 800 motor, I just unhook the splice and it will hook right up. The splice sits nicely right between the carbs. I'll try to get a pic up soon.
 

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hey chuck is it possible to hook up the oil light to the float switch on a 2003 440? if so could you add this info. here. thanks dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yes you can hook up the oil light. You need to run two wires to it.
You need to look at a wire diagram and add the pin to the grey connector which plugs into your gage. I did it on my first 440, but can't remember the pinout anymore. Since then I've been using the 6/800 harness with 6/800 stator and VR so the wires are already on the harness.
 

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what about just leaving it stock. Putting a bigger tank on... and unpluging the timing button and making sure I don't keep it floored for more than 5 seconds or so. I put 1000 miles on my 03 and never had a problem. I race mine when Im not trail riding it and I don't want to lose power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
With the 04's at over 14:1 and 05's over 15:1....good luck on pump gas is all I can say. I personally would never take the chance. Spend $100 and get your domes cut down to the LC specs or spend $3-400 getting a new piston and jug replated....the call is yours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
With the 04's at over 14:1 and 05's over 15:1....good luck on pump gas is all I can say. I personally would never take the chance. Spend $100 and get your domes cut down to the LC specs or spend $3-400 getting a new piston and jug replated....the call is yours.
 

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I'm adding tempaflow on my 03 440 with low comp. domes and oil injection what jets do i use mains and piolts? I was going to start with 330/340 mains and stock 25 piolts. Would this be okay?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
"I also put in #35 pilot jets at this time and #340 mains to start with"

That is referring to my 03 440 setup.

Never ran mine with HC domes so can't compare. I know it still pulls as hard or harder than most 6/800's up to 50mph with the LC ones in.
 

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REV*BARON said:
[snapback]504823[/snapback]​
REV*BARON said:
Here is the 02 oil pump mounted on your motor with the oil lines hooked up.

[snapback]504825[/snapback]​
REV*BARON, are the oil pump lines hooked up correctly??? from the looks of it on the Fiche and your pix they look backwards. Yours looks right, but the Fiche shows the other orientation.

Which is it or does it even matter?
 
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