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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just bought this sled from a guy in Iowa. It ran perfect for the first 100 miles or so and on my last run back to the truck it started acting up. At WOT it sounds like it's down a cyl or the computer is preventing it from running full power for some reason. A few things I've read say could be fuel pump or sensing knock?


Any suggestions would be great, I've tried the dealer and of course "we can't find anything wrong, that'l be $60..."
 

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When the sled goes up and down in rpm is that you on the throttle or is that the sled buncing the rpm up and down?

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
 

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Fuel pump mine was in to dealer a couple times before they changed it. Would run fine when I brought it in.sure there must be a pressure test they can do
 

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I thought I had it solved after dumping a can of Seafoam in the tank. Took it out and it pulled hard right at 7900 RPM. Later in the day though I did some runs on the lake at WOT and it started acting up again. I bought it with an iBackshift clutch kit installed, and primary on clicker 3. It also has a GGB can.

I tried swapping back to the stock exhaust, since some have said MBRP cans cause issues. No luck though it bogs stock as well.

The last odd deal is after the sled has sat and cooled some for a while, the first pull or two at WOT it will run great, only after doing it a few times (and presumably after it's good and hot) it starts to bog again. Could this still be a symptom of a bad fuel pump or pressure regulator? Maybe bad exhaust temp sensor? And after it's been subjected to repeated full throttle it throws an error?

I'm planning on having the dealer try and test the fuel pressure soon.
 

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T in a fuel pressure gauge and go for a quick ride. You want to see the pressure under the condition you're trying to diagnose. Pumps often pass the test without a load on the engine, then fail once the injectors are staying open longer under load. 44psi is the spec if I recall correctly. Relying on the dealer to test it in a warm shop at idle or under no load on a track stand might leave you chasing your tail, and paying to do it. Gauge is cheap, and easy to use. Make sure to replace the filter too.

If that checks out try clicker 2. Etecs do weird stuff if not loaded heavily.

My '13 did something similar when close to new. If I rode in fresh powder the same rpm bounce would occur. Packed trail was no issue. Powder was pouring in through the grille vents, and cooling the pipe. Overpriced brp prefilter kit fixed the issue. But I'm leaning toward fuel issues for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The solution ended up being a loose ground wire strap somewhere. Dealer replaced, $6 part, and $250 labor. It was throwing a high exhaust temp warning code, and the intermittent ground connection was causing the fuel pump not to run continuously or something. SO the lean mixture caused by that, caused it to run hot. Weird set of symptoms for that to be the fix. I've ridden 100 miles now and she runs great, and even sounds better.
 

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A search lead me here as my sled is doing the exact same thing. Any idea where this ground wire was ? What was the part? Regards
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Turns out the new ground wire did NOT fix it. Had the same issue today. I just put 3 gal of 110 octane in to see if maybe its a knock sensor tripping. Will report back. I only run 91 no oxy gas so I'd be surprised if this fixes it but we'll see. It only occurs for me once the engine is thoroughly hot after 10-15 min. Very frustrating. No warning lights or beeps either.
 

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What sled is it? That is not an XM Summit gauge, did it get swapped out by PO?
 

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After listening to the video here's where I would start:

1. Install a fuel pressure gauge in between the filter and ECU then tape the gauge to your handle bars and go for a ride and reproduce the issue. While the issue is happening ensure you're at 44psi or very close to it. If you're at 44psi then you're golden on fuel delivery from the fuel pump and filter. If not work your way back to rule out the fuel filter.

2. Check for vacuum leaks at the rave valves.

3. Water temp sensor and/or the eRave sensor. Without being on the sled it's hard to say but it sounds like your rave valves might be getting commanded to different position. This could come from either the water temp sensor messing up or the eRave sensor going bad. You can setup a multimeter to monitor them if you wish. In my case I wanted to ride so I replaced both of them on my sled and my issue went away. (Thanks to Big John at Sled Head Racing for this tip)

For what it's worth: The dealer can see if there's been knock within BUDS

Also, did the high exhaust temp warning code come back?
 

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IF the water temp sensor is easy access get something to plug the sensor hole and remove the sensor. Hook a multimeter to the sensor and run warm water over it. I believe these sensors are the negative temperature coefficient type, meaning as they warm up resistance will decrease and the opposite is also true. Ensure a smooth transition of resistance reading, no huge jumps in values or huge decreases as you change the water temperature. A shop book would be ideal. Maybe someone can post the resistance chart......
It's a start and might save you some $$.
 

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I was having this problem at the end of last year and just replaced the fuel pump yesterday with one from Quantum, I just took it for a quick ride and seems to have fixed my problem, I can’t say with 100% confidence yet as it was a quick ride but last year it was painfully obvious there was an issue just riding around the yard. Pump was easy to replace and was $70 delivered in 3 days, hope this helps.
 

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My 2014 XM 800 etec would act the same. I would start a hill climb and a short distance up, engine rpm would start cutting back. Dealer installed new fuel pump/ pressure regulator/ fuel guage ( all one unit), now it runs perfectly.
My machine had 5400 km on it at the time. Has 6200 km on it now
 
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