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2016 600 etec with 5000 miles dies out when shifting between forward/reverse/forward. Works fine if you add a little throttle. Also at times ( usually cold starts ) needs a little throttle to get started. Not showing any codes. Changed plugs at 4800 miles didn't cure the problem.

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What rpm does it idle at?
 

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You should never have to touch the gas on an eTec to get it to fire. Is your belt too tight? That may cause it to stall when going to reverse, but it’s definitely a key indicator of low compression as well.
 

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The thing I find with reported problems on the forum is that we normally have very little to go by. But we can often reach pretty far with a little deductive thinking. For instance, an ETEC never needs throttle to warm start or to going from forward to reverse and back. So in this case it becomes obvious this 600HOE is not even close to working right. I would add the odd possibility with the clutch, but there is no mention of a problem with cold start.

The next clue is a change a spark plugs having no effect. These are pretty good clues that the Engine Management really needs attention. Unless the owner is into troubleshooting, which this thread has shown no input from the Original Poster in 11 days, I think a trip to local dealer would be a good thing.

The very first thing I would do before even plugging my CanDoo would be to check the idle rpm. If that is not right then there would be no sense for me to look further. Then I would measure the 55Vdc System Voltage. If that was good then I go on to resetting the TPS. If that didn't help, then I would monitor the 55Vdc System Voltage while it was showing the problem, but I doubt that I would even get that far. The majority of problems are easy to find if you know where to look.

Some people like to troubleshoot, and some people don't. The way I see it with no response from the Original Poster in 11 days, my guess is a trip to the local dealer would be a good thing. At least in my neck of woods the BRP dealer is quick to diagnose and fix ETEC problems. In 2019 it has come to the point that the dealers are becoming proficient in troubleshooting the ETEC while quickly falling behind with the older tech like carbs and SDI. It's a good thing in my opinion.
 

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2016 600 etec with 5000 miles dies out when shifting between forward/reverse/forward. Works fine if you add a little throttle. Also at times ( usually cold starts ) needs a little throttle to get started. Not showing any codes. Changed plugs at 4800 miles didn't cure the problem.

Thanks for the site.
5000 miles? Ever done a top end? If not more often than not its down on compression. If your proficient enough to do a compression test you will know pretty quickly if its internal vs electrical.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Been out of town. Finally got to do a compression test. 132 on the clutch side 123 on the other. Thoughts??
 

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Been out of town. Finally got to do a compression test. 132 on the clutch side 123 on the other. Thoughts??
I would focus on the idle rpm, throttle body cleanliness and reed condition. The throttle body blocks are notorious for rotting on these engines as well.
 

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Been out of town. Finally got to do a compression test. 132 on the clutch side 123 on the other. Thoughts??
9 lbs is quite a difference... Probably time for a top end and a leak down test...
 

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Been out of town. Finally got to do a compression test. 132 on the clutch side 123 on the other. Thoughts??
The difference would be large enough for me to be concerned and extend my testing to find if the problem is with the rings.
 

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Having the same issue on my 2016 600 etec with 3000 miles. Sometimes dies when shifting into reverse or back to forward. Belt deflection is good. Pulled shroud and noticed some sooty residue on PTO side plug and plug wire and back side of head. I assume from RAVE valve? Much cleaner on mag side cylinder. Replaced the plug on the PTO side and yes indexed it. Made no difference. Looked a lot tighter confines to get mag side plug out and didn't feel like pulling driven clutch etc to get at it. Still have 2 months on BEST warranty so called the only 3 dealers within 150 miles. The soonest any of them have an opening in their service department is February 1st. Unbelievable how backed up all of them are. I'm inclined to just keep using it till then given it still runs good otherwise and if it detonates it's still under warranty. My question. Any chance dirty Rave valves could cause this? They have never been cleaned. Probably low compression like most have indicated. If so pretty disappointing this motor only gets 3000 miles before it starts dying.
 

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When I read all the suggestions here about compression tests, engine rebuilds, etc., it makes me think, why is it even remotely acceptable that a $10K machine would need this sort of repair after only 5000 miles. The fact is, it's disturbingly common-- just look at ads for used machines (any brand, really) and see how many have had rebuild work done to them. If I was a manufacturer of snowmobiles I would be embarrassed to market such a fragile product.
 

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I'm with you on this OldMuskrat. The fact remains that many are willing to pay $13-$15K for a snowmobile with a state of the art 2 stroke engine that are delighted if it gets 6000 trouble free miles. Wouldn't be acceptable with any other piece of equipment we buy, but in the snowmobile world it somehow is. I also have a 900 ACE powered sled and going forward all my sleds will be 4 stroke. I keep my sleds a long time and use them in remote places and reliability is the top priority for me. I wish BRP would offer 4 strokes in some of their off trail performance sleds like the backcountry. When if get my etec into the shop I will post back with the problem.
 

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When I read all the suggestions here about compression tests, engine rebuilds, etc., it makes me think, why is it even remotely acceptable that a $10K machine would need this sort of repair after only 5000 miles. The fact is, it's disturbingly common-- just look at ads for used machines (any brand, really) and see how many have had rebuild work done to them. If I was a manufacturer of snowmobiles I would be embarrassed to market such a fragile product.
This is the nature of the beast with today's higher HP 2-stroke snowmobile engines. They are typically run very hard (a lot of constant WOT) and the fact of the matter is a 2-stroke motor is far more suseptible to things like air leaks, bad fuel, bad lubrication, etc.

Yes... you will find 2-stroke snowmobiles that went 10K - 15K miles before a rebuild and without grenading but you will find many more that needed a rebuild or imploded in less than 10K miles.... or even under 5K miles.

I used to dump my 2-stroke sleds as soon as they hit 5,000 miles and I didn't run my sleds hard and I took care of them but it was always like playing russion roulette. I switched to 4-strokes about 6 years ago and haven't looked back because they will run reliably well beyond 20,000 miles with some basic care and overall chassis maintenance.

If I think about my old Yamaha Enticer or Artic Cat Jag back in the day, I never really worried about them blowing up or needing a rebuild. The HP ratings were lower and they typically tended to run on the rich side so they seemed like they would last forever.
 

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Following up on this thread. Finally got the sled into a BRP dealer. Low compression on one hole due to crack in intake boot. Parts ordered for new top. Very glad I bought 3 year extended warranty which will expire end of next month. I haven't seen the cracked boot but will be interested to. You would think Ski Doo could source boots made of high quality rubber that would last more than 4 years without cracking. My 1990 Indy 500 has 30 years old carb boots with no cracks. 4 years and 3800 miles on this machine. Will be my last 2 stroke of any brand. My other sled is a 900ACE and the 4 stroke engines will be all I own going forward since I keep my sleds many years and value reliability over all else.
 

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I have decided to be done with 2 strokes before this happened. While I understand that an air leak can also take down a 4 stroke, I have never heard of an ACE motor going down due to this or really for any reason, and there are so many now with over 10,000 miles and 5 plus years of service on them. There must be a reason it is more common on the ETECS. Maybe heat? Vibration? who knows. At any rate it will be repaired, we will diligently check the boots at least once a year, and when it gives up the ghost for the last time it will be replaced with another 4 stroke. They just fit my mission better. The parts are going in under warranty so aftermarket cages aren't an option.
 
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