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After driving it in Standard Mode it shuts off after idling for 10 seconds or more. It seems to shut off faster the harder I've driven it. It also takes 2+ seconds to react if I move the throttle after I come to a stop before it shuts off. Literally half throttle and nothing happens and the RPM will finally climb slow after a few seconds, frigin dangerous at a road crossing.

Also on a lumpy railine or drifted lake trying to maintain about 1/2 throttle, the RPM will drop slowly and it will get slower and slower until I jam it wide open. I'm assumimg the throttle is constantly moving in my hands as the sled rocks in the bumps. Off trail if I blip the throttle more than 3 times it just hangs in limbo with no real repsonse.

Dealer has adjusted/set the TPS already and said there was a loose intake snorkel, it didn't fix it. With the crappy season, the dealer can't ride it to duplicate the problem.

Thought or suggestions ??
 

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boost junkie
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bad tps will usually throw a code

check the connector on the TB
 

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Sounds like a bad TPS as stated above.
 

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Well 2 seasons later, new throttle body with TPS, thumb throttle and ECM and it still isn't fixed. No codes, it just doesn't respond to the throttle. Apparently I'm the only case with BRP.

Any other experience or fixes for this out there ??

Cheers
 

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boost junkie
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there are two harnesses and the tps is on the motor and the thumb is on the body harness

all the handlebar connections are under the headlight that connect to the body harness
 

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I'm waiting on new harness for my 2016 1200 right now. Different problem, but FYI they're on back order.
Must be a bigger problem than they are letting on if we can't get parts!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes the wiring harness is next to try, it is warranty but they have to lift the motor to do it. Not much left of a new unwrenched sled now.
 

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mine acted that way when the gage cluster burned out. i think it is wired through there as is most other electronics. have dealer swap out gage and try it....
 

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boost junkie
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no wires go under the motor

both harness are removable with the motor bolted in place
 
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I wonder if the flipper is bad? In order for the tps to get a signal increase something must change between that and the engine and the only thing in that circuit is the flipper so it must be a potentiometer much like a volume control??
 

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boost junkie
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the op said they had changed it and did not fix the problem
 

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This is a problem we will see more of. As sleds become more and more reliant on electronic inputs, the proper diagnostic training for technicians isn't keeping up. The fact that ecm pin-out tests aren't easy because of ecm location doesn't help. We see these issues often in the automotive industry and we always see odd things that shouldn't be happening. In the end, proper budds read outs with proper lab scope testing and understanding what the results mean will give you a positive fix. The harsh nature in which the snowmobiles have to perform in sure doesn't help.
 

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After driving it in Standard Mode it shuts off after idling for 10 seconds or more. It seems to shut off faster the harder I've driven it. It also takes 2+ seconds to react if I move the throttle after I come to a stop before it shuts off. Literally half throttle and nothing happens and the RPM will finally climb slow after a few seconds, frigin dangerous at a road crossing.

Also on a lumpy railine or drifted lake trying to maintain about 1/2 throttle, the RPM will drop slowly and it will get slower and slower until I jam it wide open. I'm assumimg the throttle is constantly moving in my hands as the sled rocks in the bumps. Off trail if I blip the throttle more than 3 times it just hangs in limbo with no real repsonse.

Dealer has adjusted/set the TPS already and said there was a loose intake snorkel, it didn't fix it. With the crappy season, the dealer can't ride it to duplicate the problem.

Thought or suggestions ??
Sounds like the same issue I'm having. http://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/1236425-2016-1200-sled-shutdown-when-at-a-stop/ They are now replacing long block, injectors, and coil packs. $9000 in parts not including labor. I tried to get them to buy it back.
 
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