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Hi, new here so hopefully i'm doing this right? I have a 2015 Tundra 550 lt. it ran through the summer as i start it a few times through the off season. I tried starting it back in november, and nothing? machine has no spark? it's february now, and i finally have the time to work on it. I took the cdi/coil to the dealer for testing as i couldn't find the specs on it for testing myself. 75.00 bucks later they tell me it's o.k...then they told me that my sled has no spark because the carburators need adjustment? what the heck, now i'm questioning the competence of the tech who tested my cdi. by the way, my sled only has 900 km on it. my question is, with a strong healthy battery, will my snowmobile start if the stator is faulty? thought the stator was for charging battery etc, ? no spark when i try pull starting either. tether, ignition, and kill switch all test good. is there a fuse that i'm not seeing? I know of the 30 amp fuse for the e-start, and that is fine. engine cranks strong, just no spark. compression is 110 in both cylinders. voltage regulator?..any suggestions would be appreciated. I've read different posts about this problem, but none i have found seem to deal with my specific issue.seems strange that it ran fine last time i started it, then it sat for a few months and now no spark? I have checked ground wires, and for broken or mouse chewed wires and have found nothing? one more question, can the stator be tested while in the machine?
 

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Dealer is off when suggesting carb adjustment has anything to do with ignition issue.
If you have the Cdi off anyway try testing in another 550 machine, the only true way to test a Cdi module.
The Cdi is a common failure item, would not be surprised if it is the problem.
I question the dealers test...

No fuse related to ignition, only e start, the compression is fine on a 550.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks tundra 300.. ya, no faith in the dealer here..when testing ignition, while engine is cranking, no power is going to cdi/coil. ignition switch is fine, there is no power going to the ignition switch when it is in the "on" position...there are 4 posts on ignition.2 are for cranking the engine with the battery, and 2 are for when the machine is running. I would think that when the engine is cranking, i should be getting voltage through the switch to the coil.. power goes through the switch to activate starter and crank engine when turned to start, but no power goes through the terminals in the switch and out to the cdi/coil? i think theres supposed to be power coming into the switch from either the voltage regulator or the stator once the machine starts running? but for what ever reason, when cranking the engine, no power is coming into the switch and out to the coil?
 

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thanks tundra 300.. ya, no faith in the dealer here..when testing ignition, while engine is cranking, no power is going to cdi/coil. ignition switch is fine, there is no power going to the ignition switch when it is in the "on" position...there are 4 posts on ignition.2 are for cranking the engine with the battery, and 2 are for when the machine is running. I would think that when the engine is cranking, i should be getting voltage through the switch to the coil.. power goes through the switch to activate starter and crank engine when turned to start, but no power goes through the terminals in the switch and out to the cdi/coil? i think theres supposed to be power coming into the switch from either the voltage regulator or the stator once the machine starts running? but for what ever reason, when cranking the engine, no power is coming into the switch and out to the coil?
I thought mine need a CDI but there is no way to test them so I bought one and ended up selling it at a loss. It turned out to be the stator. I suggest downloading an online manual for it, they don't cost much.
 

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The 550's most common spark loss component is the module, ($469) next is the stator, ($529) also time to time a flywheel ($469) is know to loose it's magnetism, another thing but rarely goes is the pickup coil ($159)

I put the prices there as a reminder why i don'y buy 2 strokes anymore :)
 
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The 550's most common spark loss component is the module, ($469) next is the stator, ($529) also time to time a flywheel ($469) is know to loose it's magnetism, another thing but rarely goes is the pickup coil ($159)

I put the prices there as a reminder why i don'y buy 2 strokes anymore :)
Inexpensive is pretty expensive! :angry: Those are things you don't want to fail in east nowhere either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks for the input fella's. ya, quite disappointing with only 900 km. on the machine..bought the tundra because of it's reliability.. or so i thought.
 

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Wow! That's the first I've heard of carburetors causing no spark.. I can't believe a " dealer" told you that.
Keep in mind when testing ignition systems is that anything coming from the stator is AC volts.. and that the electric start is separate from anything related to ignition ( DC volts).
Break down your troubleshooting into individual systems and test the simple things first.. could be something as simple as a faulty plug cap.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
 

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I had a faulty CDI on my renegade 550f, only ran when warmer than -20c, wouldn't spark any colder. Diagnosed by putting a hairdryer on the CDI on cold day in driveway. When pulled it looked like moisture intrusion to unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ya, the dealers theory was that my out of adjustment carbs were fouling the plugs, causing no spark. I told them i had new plugs that had never been inside the cylinders and still no spark. seems strange that it goes from having spark to not having spark, just while sitting through the summer and fall? but with electrical, anything can happen. I'm still trying to figure out if the power comes straight from the stator to the ignition switch, then to the cdi/coil? or does the power from stator go to voltage regulator then to switch and coil? I know its all a process of elimination, and for now, all i know is that i'm getting no power to ignition and onto the cdi/coil. just gotta figure out where power to ignition comes from? i'm trying to eliminate voltage regulator, depending on where it lies in the circuit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
o.k. so after retesting in A.C. mode, i have 15 volts going to coil when cranking. but no spark..thinking maybe dealer misdiagnosed coil as being good?
 

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I'm not sure what the spec is, but if you have something coming in, you should have something coming out. Btw, I believe the voltage regulator is not part of the system as it should only control things like gauges, lights, handwarmers etc.
Find yourself a wiring diagram so your not going at it blind.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i have been trying to find a manual online, but can't seem to find one for this particular year and machine. 2015 tundra lt 550f..154 track. rev-xu. if any of you fellas come across a shop manual for this, i'd sure appreciate the info. as for the machine, ya kinda tough when trying to figure stuff out as i go..things i need to find out are...are 15 volts going to the coil enough for spark? when i test the stator while still in the machine, the 2 wires coming out of the stator ( 1 red and 1 black wire) they have continuity, and 7 ohms of resistance? dealer isn't to cooperative in answering any of my questions, they just want me to bring the machine in and pay them the money, but for me, that's a last resort. just need to find some specs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
yes 30 amp is fine..i was told that 30 amp is only needed with e start ( battery).. so with no spark while pulling on cord?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
guess i'm gonna have to spend 160.00 on a manual. if those dip ****s at brp misdiagnosed my coil..i'm gonna be pissed.
 
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