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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been having issues with my battery draining after a recharge for a while now. Inspected the wiring harness, tried different batteries, used the multimeter to diagnose different uses or the power. No Luck!

All I have to my knowledge is the brass "bolt" grounding lug on the foot well at the left of the muffler. I damaged it against a rock a while ago and it seems to line up with my issues. I have spoken with the dealer over the phone and took pictures for them to see. They tell me they don't know what it is???? How does a dealer not know what it is? It is clear to me that it has a purpose. Really hoping someone can identify what this part is and could it be the source of my problem. See attached pictures
 

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In the first picture the long bolt is for your chain adjustment. The nut that's just into the pic is one of the ground straps. I'd take that apart and clean it up good, I then use liquid electrical tape over it once its all put back together.

I have no idea whats sticking thru the frame on the second pic. Its got to be in front of the muffler cutout on the frame, So its not in any of the top view pics you have posted.
 

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I would start with your relays in the box right near the battery. I have had trouble with mine, same make and year. One or more might be sticking and creating a continuous draw on the battery.

You can check them with a volt ohm meter or just replace them, somewhere on this site is cross reference numbers for napa ones.

99% chance that brass colored whatever sticking down below the foot-well has nothing to do with it.
 

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That bolt sticking out is the bottom does not look factory to me, and I suspect that's why dealer can't ID it. You presumably bought this sled used? Looks like it does nothing...or like has been said it's just a stub of a missing or broken ice scratcher. Look elsewhere for your battery problem.

You mention using a a meter, but what was your method of testing? Volt testing of of no value for a problem such as this, and unfortunately volt testing is all that most shadetree mechanics have a rudimentary understanding of. The only way to confirm a parasitic draw is to set the meter up as a DC ammeter IN SERIES (NOT parallel across terminals...you simply can't measure amps like you measure volts), with a known good/charged battery, sled NOT running, and set it to your lowest scale of milliamps...the draw should be simply zero with sled off. If there is a reading showing, that proves there is indeed problem...how many mA's are you seeing? The number itself doesn't really matter, but now that you have a reading you just need to start pulling fuses, relays, and plugs while watching the meter until that number drops to zero, and THAT is the circuit is causing the draw to occur. Do NOT try to start the sled or turn on any high draw accessory while your meter is set up in series like this...won't hurt the sled, but depending on the quality of your meter you might cook it and destroy it if it doesn't have internal circuit breaker to self-protect from an oops moment during the testing.

Any aftermarket accessories installed? USB chargers or 12V adapters? GPS hookups? If yes these are the most likely culprits if a draw actually exists.
 

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Administrator - East Coast Tony
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That bolt sticking out is the bottom does not look factory to me, and I suspect that's why dealer can't ID it. You presumably bought this sled used? Looks like it does nothing...or like has been said it's just a stub of a missing or broken ice scratcher. Look elsewhere for your battery problem.

You mention using a a meter, but what was your method of testing? Volt testing of of no value for a problem such as this, and unfortunately volt testing is all that most shadetree mechanics have a rudimentary understanding of. The only way to confirm a parasitic draw is to set the meter up as a DC ammeter IN SERIES (NOT parallel across terminals...you simply can't measure amps like you measure volts), with a known good/charged battery, sled NOT running, and set it to your lowest scale of milliamps...the draw should be simply zero with sled off. If there is a reading showing, that proves there is indeed problem...how many mA's are you seeing? The number itself doesn't really matter, but now that you have a reading you just need to start pulling fuses, relays, and plugs while watching the meter until that number drops to zero, and THAT is the circuit is causing the draw to occur. Do NOT try to start the sled or turn on any high draw accessory while your meter is set up in series like this...won't hurt the sled, but depending on the quality of your meter you might cook it and destroy it if it doesn't have internal circuit breaker to self-protect from an oops moment during the testing.

Any aftermarket accessories installed? USB chargers or 12V adapters? GPS hookups? If yes these are the most likely culprits if a draw actually exists.
Terrific way to explain the process of determining load.
 

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I have Adrenaline and Enduro 900's and for all intents and purposes they are the same XS chassis and configuration and the GT 900's. I have had the area apart on my sleds to add an additional ground from the grounding point at the bottom of your first picture over to the engine block. I can tell you that is not a stock bolt. I've got a 2015, 2016 and 2017 XS 900 and I have not seen that bolt because I ran my additional ground right through that opening.

That is why your dealer can't ID it. Stealth bomber's guess is as good as any but I can say with some certainty it does not have anything to do with your battery drain issues.

The sled is coming up on it's 5th season. Did you buy it new or used? If it is the original battery and not maintained in the offseason properly, it could simple be time for a new battery. You can get 5 years or more out of the stock battery if it's on a tender in the offseason but if not, 3 or 4 seasons and they can be toast.

Something else to check on that year is the battery bracket and battery shell. Many of the bracket bolts were easy to over tighten and it causes the battery case to bulge on the sides. If the side of your battery is bulging or wavy, I would replace the battery and be sure to not over-tighten the bracket bolt.

And while you have that area apart, I would add a ground from the foot rest bolt where the ground comes off the battery over to the engine mount. There is a thread on here where I posted what I did with pictures. I will try to find it for you.

Found it..... https://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/1490610-opinion-on-900-ace-issue/
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Great feedback from everyone. Thanks.

I did purchase the machine new from dealer. Shortly after damaging underside I started having issues with battery and damaged that whatever.

Here's what I have so far.

I am pulling 1.1MA when everything is off. I can reduce that draw to 0.1ma when i pull the return plug to battery from the voltage regulator. I can't reach the plug from the stator yet.

I have literally pulled every other plug, fuse, relay with no difference.

I have suspected bad battery but when I have this draw from the battery I moved on.

Thoughts
 

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Well that's a bummer. Unfortunately I have no answers, but yes you have a problem that is NOT just a bad battery. That is a legit current draw that is not right.

No option in my mind but to start digging deeper, disassembling further, and maybe guessing on a couple parts to see what eliminates the draw. Got another VR you can swap in for a test?

And if it were my sled? Rather than chase my tail and spend money on diagnostics and guesses, especially if you're get down to speculating on something like stator causing it, I might honestly ignore it, and just remember to disconnect the battery every time the sled is going to sit for a week or more. 1ma is minimal, won't hurt a thing during a trip, or if letting the sled sit for a few days. It's only a long term storage problem, so is it worth fixing to you?

Sorry I have little else to offer, maybe someone else does.
 

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I would like to know what that bolt sticking thru the bottom is all about. Do you have a picture of inside the just ahead of the one with the adjusting bolt for the chaincase? i'm wondering why thats there?
 

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Voltage Regulators are known to have small leaks. Use multimeter in series to either the positive or negative side of the VR, whichever is easiest to reach and manipulate.
 

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Just had my muffler off yesterday and my 16 XS tnt looks like your first pic. Ground strap on the far left and a bolt head in the middle, in line with the chain adjuster. Have nothing like your 2nd pic, just black rivets. Is yours an XR chassis by chance? Microfiche shows your model in both chassis that year. The 2nd pic looks like it could be some sort of drain plug. Is the brass looking bolt hollow or solid. Better closeup pics may be helpful.
 

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All good info here, but in my experience there will always be a small draw on system to to dash clock accurate ( assuming yours has that opt.). I think I would be taking battery in to an automotive shop to test properly.

Also when using a multimeter you can use volts or amp setting, I usually use a test light if it lights up then start pulling fuses one at time. A real dim light could be just the clock.

Now a relay could cause the problem by sticking or if there is a wiring problem it could be shorting keeping the relay activated.

Good luck
 

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Test lights on current sleds is not an accurate way of checking for load/draw, must use a DVOM for accurate testing.
 
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