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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Any recommendations for these sleds for clutching? They are the kids sleds (15 and 13 year olds), and we ride primarily in the mountains (2500-6500 ft). 2 sleds, 2 riders that are looking for more fun factor when boondocking basically. When I ride them, they seem to rev up fine, but not backshift like they should some of the time, and then the punch it and lift the sled over creeks is not as reactive as I think they could be.

I don't think I want to buy 2 aftermarket clutch kits for them due to costs, unless someone highly recommends this option and has done it to their own with great results.

I was thinking of going from the 41/45 Helix to a straight 40* helix and new secondary springs, and then try that.

I was also thinking of going from the 19/49 gearing to a 19/51 gearing, but don't expect a lot of difference with that change.

Might do the helix/spring on 1 sled, and the gear change on the other sled.

I should add the clutches are in good shape, no wear issues besides springs are 4-5000 km old now.
 

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Your sled should have a 130-260 primary spring or a 160-260.

Most of the 600HO etec i work on respond better to a 350 or a 380 finish primary spring. I would swap out thy primary spring to a 160-350 or a 160-380 and test it. You may need to add some pin weight. The 380 finish spring may raise top rpm a little as well.

Your sled should have the factory short threaded pins. A metric set screw will thread into them to add weight if needed. Your dealer should have the set screws.

If Boondocking is the riding style? Keep the gearing low. Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited by Moderator)
Your sled should have a 130-260 primary spring or a 160-260.

Most of the 600HO etec i work on respond better to a 350 or a 380 finish primary spring. I would swap out thy primary spring to a 160-350 or a 160-380 and test it. You may need to add some pin weight. The 380 finish spring may raise top rpm a little as well.

Your sled should have the factory short threaded pins. A metric set screw will thread into them to add weight if needed. Your dealer should have the set screws.

If Boondocking is the riding style? Keep the gearing low. Good Luck.
This helps me thanks.

I had swapped the primary springs a few years ago, I kinda forgot about that honestly. I had put in a softer engaging spring with same finish force, so I assume 130-260, or maybe I went 100-260, will have to pull apart and check. My stock primary springs should be 160-260. I will look for a higher finish force spring with the same lighter engagement, like a 130-350. I like the lower/softer engagement for the kids and for picking through the trees which we do lots of. This could worsen the creek jumping ability, so I will have to find a good balance I guess.

This last ride, which was deep snow and wet, I had to clicker the 600's up to 5 and 6 to keep 8100 RPM, so this higher finish force spring should help that issue and then we can drop the clickers back.

What are your thoughts on the Helix? These 600's stock have a 41/45, and my 800 summit has a 40*. I also assume the 600 would like a less aggressive helix and don't really understand how a 600 can spin a more aggressive helix then an 800. But for our boondocking riding style, a quicker back shifting helix, such as a 40*, should help.

Gonna leave the gearing for now, they are geared fairly close stock in my opinion.

Riding season is over now, so will make some changes and try again next year.

Thanks!
 

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I never did like the reverse angle helix. Always removed them out of the 800s. Try the primary spring first... if the rpm falls down on a long pull? Try a straight angle.helix next. Good Luck Have fun with the tuning.
 

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I never did like the reverse angle helix. Always removed them out of the 800s. Try the primary spring first... if the rpm falls down on a long pull? Try a straight angle.helix next. Good Luck Have fun with the tuning.
I looked up the available helix angles from Dalton Industries for the QRS used on REV Gen 1 to Gen 4, and the HPV27 used on Gen1 REV X and RT. Surprise, no reverse angle helix......... Was this to keep engine rpm down for noise emissions?
 

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Not sure the real purpose for the Reverse helix angle. BRP was definitely trying to keep the rpm down on the top end. I assumed with light pin weight for altitude....the purpose was to keep it from over reving on the trail going up to the Alpine areas.

The reverse helix was a bugger her at home 1700ft to keep the sled on the pipe. On a long pull rpm would slowly drop drown to 7600 rpm.
 
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