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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks new to the group here. I am in the process of re-building the top end on my Freeride do to a broke ring ,got it almost back together with the engine installed , I did my best to mark everything where it came off from.. hoses and electrical connections but I guess I missed a few first time doing this. So my questions are as follows , there is a sensor I believe that is in the head cover with a plug on it and I cannot find where this plugs into, wondering if it was used or if someone cans show a pic of where it goes?
second question , on the power valve side of the engine on the bottom there a larger oil line I think or return line , just wondering if this goes on the oil tank behind the air box… (not the two smaller oil lines on the bottom that go to the oil tank)

and final question is after all is back together what is the best way to bleed the oil lines?

Thanks
 

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Just did my top end on my 16 800 XRS. Never had to disconnect any oil lines, but I do know that you need to have it hooked up at the dealer and they can electronically tell the pump to run and Purge any air out of your system
 

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The sensor plugs in just above the jackshaft or secondary shaft. Up by the ignition coils.

The large oil line around power valves? Hmmm. There is small clear oil line that go to the power valves and small black vacuum line that go to the valve housings as well. The only other oil line to engine is the one down in the center of the crank cases. Maybe you are working with some vacuum lines for the rave valves? They are clear with a coil spring inside them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes I think it is the one in the Center of the crank case maybe 1/4” line I left it hooked to the motor when I took it out just not sure where I disconnect the other end from , the only spot I could see is at the top of the oil tank behind the air box. I will see if I can get a pic later.
 

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Yup that's the spot.
 

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Yes that is correct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I done some research and it was say you could use the summarize mode to get the air out of the lines, anyone do this or know if it works to do so?
 

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I done some research and it was say you could use the summarize mode to get the air out of the lines, anyone do this or know if it works to do so?
Yes, summerization does purge the lines. I did that with my new engine as soon as it fired up. Make sure there is plenty of oil on pistons and on the crankshaft for piece of mind (you don't need to go crazy with it but lube is your friend at this point) Waste no time engaging summerization at first start up to help prevent anything going wrong. No "break-in" reset and I now have over 7000 miles on the engine and no issues (knock on wood).
 

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Yes, summerization does purge the lines. I did that with my new engine as soon as it fired up. Make sure there is plenty of oil on pistons and on the crankshaft for piece of mind (you don't need to go crazy with it but lube is your friend at this point) Waste no time engaging summerization at first start up to help prevent anything going wrong. No "break-in" reset and I now have over 7000 miles on the engine and no issues (knock on wood).
With no break-in activated it is worth explaining how you ride it. We all do this part differently, so you don't need to worry about doing it anyone's way. I will comment on a thread that is meant to ask everyone's take, but not when I am the one asking. In other words I want to know how you go about it.
 

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With no break-in activated it is worth explaining how you ride it. We all do this part differently, so you don't need to worry about doing it anyone's way. I will comment on a thread that is meant to ask everyone's take, but not when I am the one asking. In other words I want to know how you go about it.
Hello Daag. I live out in bush Alaska and I tend to do a lot of trail cruising and by that I mean hard pack cruising because there are no actual trails aside from main routes everyone uses. Conditions here are generally hard pack, windblown and crusty. We do get powder dumps from time to time and that's usually the only time the engine sings the loudest unless trail conditions permit fast cruising or on a steep hill or mountain climb. I took it easy on her for the first 500 miles but would verify that it would get top recommended RPM from time to time. Now keep in mind I also tow loads with this machine from time to time also... anything from a whole quartered moose to 6 quartered caribou to spruce log loads of 500 lbs plus. RPM's are mostly in the 6 range but not normally over 6500 unless my buddies insist on a faster pace. All in all though, I believe staying on top of sled maintenance (isoflex, keeping clutches fresh, motor mounts, reeds, fuel filter, etc.) is what is keeping this engine together.
 

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Hello Daag. I live out in bush Alaska and I tend to do a lot of trail cruising and by that I mean hard pack cruising because there are no actual trails aside from main routes everyone uses. Conditions here are generally hard pack, windblown and crusty. We do get powder dumps from time to time and that's usually the only time the engine sings the loudest unless trail conditions permit fast cruising or on a steep hill or mountain climb. I took it easy on her for the first 500 miles but would verify that it would get top recommended RPM from time to time. Now keep in mind I also tow loads with this machine from time to time also... anything from a whole quartered moose to 6 quartered caribou to spruce log loads of 500 lbs plus. RPM's are mostly in the 6 range but not normally over 6500 unless my buddies insist on a faster pace. All in all though, I believe staying on top of sled maintenance (isoflex, keeping clutches fresh, motor mounts, reeds, fuel filter, etc.) is what is keeping this engine together.
Thanks for sharing! I believe the way you take it easy and the type of trails is in part why it works without the break-in reset and get high mileage out of your workhorse.
 
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