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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys my 12 wt etec has an issue holding peak rpm at WOT. Clutching is stock tra clickers on number 2. Cold weather or warm sled comes out of the hole like a rocket spools up to 8500rpm and as i near 80mph across a packed snow lake the rpms fall to 7500-7300 rpm and stays there. Even doing a roll on at 35-40 mph runs right up 8500 then falls on its face. Sled only has 600 miles on it. Any idea's at all to help hold my peak of 8100rpm would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Derek
 

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Have you added any fuel additives. Had a buddy who had same issue and he added octane boost. Why I dont know but it does not work well with e-tec engines. It could also be your TPS sensor. There is also a recall on the exhaust valve(Rave Valve) nuts. Check that out . Tne nuts just need to be removed and some thread lock put on and re-tightened. Check the Rave Valves first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Are the valves leaking? Would there be weeping down the cylinder? Also i have put some fuel de-icer in tank not allot though. Im getting no lights on the dash or anything. Throttle position sensor, what are symptoms of it being the culprit. Thanks in advance Derek
 

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600 miles, close to 1000 km means the Rotax begins to loosen up properly.

8500c rpm, big NoNO, that´s the critter bugging the ECm to back off timing, never go over 8100 , proper clutching is advised and upshift controlled at 8000 rpm

You need to get a primary spring with higher end force, like a 130-290/320 or similar, then maybe lighten up pinweight from stock 18,8 to around 16,8-17,3 gr considering your needs.

Also check preload on QRS Secondary to be at +8 kg ish

Chep one with spring and weights for like 50-80 bucks+ clutch puller for another 20, if you go further you can end up with a clutch kit for a lot more but that is not neccessary for all hammer downers
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you very much. I figured the issue which was my belt which was worn out a bit. Earlier in the season I had to adjust my belt tension, which I have done on every sled I have ever owned. Once adjusted to speck with a slightly worn belt she just falls on its face. New belt re adjusted secondary and bam, rocks along like it should. I tried several other skandic 600'etecs this past weekend and every single one of them hit 8500 out of the hole then dropped to 8100 rpm.
 

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For sure the belt height in the sec is vital, also to check belt wear, imho the wear specs are a little of saying approx 3mm as you get performance issues already with a belt wear around 1,5 mm .

What you loose with stock setup are good backshift performance in the deep and might have trouble getting into +1:1 and hold it for a while but then, rairly needed.

ETEC are a PITA to clutch for good overall utility/crossover performance as you get close to the magic 8100 rpm mark or in reality 8000 rpm for best torque.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Your absolutely right these are a pain to get dialed in for sure. Do you know of a decent clutch kit for this sled? I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to brp clutching.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hey also how do I check for codes on my sled? I've seen u have mentioned the "m" button but my skandic doesn't have one. Also does it need to be running or off? Thanks a bunch
 

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Your absolutely right these are a pain to get dialed in for sure. Do you know of a decent clutch kit for this sled? I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to brp clutching.
Me to, also ignorant about clutch kits (hey DJ come kick me in the b.. and I will give in ....maybe )

Cheap trick is mentioned above in #6, if you need good low range performance with up/downshift in the backcountry u can also get a 160-320/360 spring (earlier rampwalking on/off), put it under compression a week to take some guts out of it and mount.

Needs some testing for your individual preferences so be advised for some testruns to dial in pinweight.

Next step is ramps, some triplets DJMs or polished and tweaked 441s aren´t bad choice for a ski flapper/upclimp from the pit and the euphorical "throttle track feeling".

Another one is Cam, I was very satisfied with the 40 cam the XU 600 SDI used, not that happy with stock 42 on XU 600 ETEC and very very curious on the 42/40 cam performance or maybe even a XX/XX cam are out there .

Be advised, it´s all about testing , document testing and then test again and again and again..... like DJ and siblinged clutch gurus doo and their stuff are well worth the 500 bucks for those who doesn´t have time for testing.

But, if you doo it yourself with parts for 300-350 bucks (not counting the weight kit , that ones a keeper so out of budget) and a couple days testing the satisfaction can be .....

Hey also how do I check for codes on my sled? I've seen u have mentioned the "m" button but my skandic doesn't have one. Also does it need to be running or off? Thanks a bunch
You need the multi function cluster, otherwise you need dealers BUDS system or if you want it availiable at home you can get the CandoProo software+hardware for about 500 USD.

Sled needs to be running or powered up elsewhise with a special harness wiring BUDS/CandoProo uses.
 

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