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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got a call from My ski Doo dealer as I took my sled in cause it wouldn't start. It was turning over like it wouldn't fire. I suspected a bad stator or voltage regulator.

he says no compression in first two cylinders and 20 Ibs in third? This sled ran fine last season and sat in my garage over the summer

Has 7,300 miles and never a problem till now? I just had an e clutch put on late last season.

dealer said he had not seen any other problems like this on 1200s

He wants $600 just to rip motor out and diagnose? Full rebuild is like $3,500 plus. He is recommending getting a used motor.

Any ideas what is really wrong? Anybody got a low mileage motor for sale?

I own 2 other 11 1200s with 3,000 miles on those. I put e clutches on all three loved them all till today

sled is located in Muskegon MI

THANKS FOR ANY ADVICE!
 

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Doesn't make a lot of sense to me to have results like that. If true, and if pistons are going up and down I'd suspect some sort of massive valvetrain failure maybe causing several valves to remain mostly open? Maybe a family of mice worked their way into some valves and died there during off season or packed them full of food and bedding?

Yeah used engine is a good idea...IF it actually needs an engine. Complete leak down test would answer many questions. So would an inspection camera in the plug holes. Compression tests are of minimal value in terms of pinpointing the problem. With info provided all anyone here can do is guess...
 

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Was the sled running and then stop or would it just not start this fall?

My immediate thought is go get your sled because your dealer is trying to f#@k you over!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I think this dealer is reputable at $85 an hour he'll get after whatever 8 tell him to do.

the sled ran fine last season which is what has me scratching my head! The mice theory is interesting but I would expect them to nest in the pipe (?)

what is a leak down test?

thx
 

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Anyone think there's a chance that fuel that went bad over summer did this? Ethanol gas will separate and some real thick, syrupy sludge could have been ingested. IDK if this happens with fuel injected engines, but it sure can get valves stuck on carb stuff like lawn mowers.
 

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I think this dealer is reputable at $85 an hour he'll get after whatever 8 tell him to do.

the sled ran fine last season which is what has me scratching my head! The mice theory is interesting but I would expect them to nest in the pipe (?)

what is a leak down test?

thx
What I'm getting at is, did the sled start after being stored all summer? When you pulled it out of storage did it start up, or just crank and no fire?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This fall the sled did act weird.

i moved it around in garage and it ran fine. A month later I started with track jacked up and throttle stuck for a moment. I shut down and it didn't happen again.

In later weeks, I would start and it acted like battery was weak, but it did ran on stand.

We went to ride last weekend. My son fired it up, pulled it out of garage and it idled in driveway a few minutes. I touched throttle to leave and it quit. Only would start briefly by giving some throttle. Manually loaded on trailer & Took it to dealer
 

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This fall the sled did act weird.

i moved it around in garage and it ran fine. A month later I started with track jacked up and throttle stuck for a moment. I shut down and it didn't happen again.

In later weeks, I would start and it acted like battery was weak, but it did ran on stand.

We went to ride last weekend. My son fired it up, pulled it out of garage and it idled in driveway a few minutes. I touched throttle to leave and it quit. Only would start briefly by giving some throttle. Manually loaded on trailer & Took it to dealer
K, now we're getting somewhere.

You say the throttle stuck for a moment.... I'm guessing you were revving it up which isn't a problem but if there was debris in the airbox/intake this could've been sucked into the valve train but it ran again later so I'm doubting this at this point.

Started but acted like the battery was weak...... did it crank slow or did it fire up quickly and run bad?

...went to ride....... your son fired it up, did it start & run fine then? Was it missing, vibrating, running on 2 cyls?

....touch the throttle and it quit.... was it idling fine when this happened?

....start briefly with throttle.... was it cranking over quickly when it would try to start?

None of this sounds like engine damage, if it were mine I would be looking at battery voltage then charging voltage. How old is the battery? These sleds are know to lose the stator after a few years so it may not be charging the battery. Low battery voltage can cause the ecm to act very erratic.
 

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I seriously doubt two cylinders just up and died but I suppose stranger things have happened. $600 to diagnose? I'd ask if that is refundable if it's not two bad cylinders/pistons. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I don't really remember the details of throttle sticking. I think I gave it a quick burst / it stuck / i hit kill switch . I fired it up briefly a few times in subsequent weeks just for a minute and it seemed to run on the stand but would crank a little slow like weak battery

battery is starting second season. Before i loaded it on trailer, I took a known good battery out of another one of my 1200s and there was no change. It wouldn't start.

it was idling fine. My son said it started fine and he drove it out the driveway 20' not noticing any problem before I got on it and it quit.

based on wha5 read in the forums I figured I had a bad regulator or bad stator. No compression was a real shocker

I guess I am going to ask dealer to do a leak down test tomorrow
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Any experienced mechanic in MI want to tackle this project for a reasonable hourly wage? I can bring it to you anywhere (within a 250 radius of Muskegon) and I have 2 other sleds, so there is no great rush

Call me please Bob 231 557 4182

thanks
 

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Id start by heading to parts store and buying or renting compression tester. Will twll u how honest yr dealer is very quickly. Also, did u ever run the sled with out oil in it? With these motors that the only way i can see having catastrophic failure and even then u could probably get away with a few seconds of running dry and still not kill motor to this point
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
One last comment that I don't think is relevant- the button face on left bar for accessing the computer info is gone
 

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Any experienced mechanic in MI want to tackle this project for a reasonable hourly wage? I can bring it to you anywhere (within a 250 radius of Muskegon) and I have 2 other sleds, so there is no great rush

Call me please Bob 231 557 4182

thanks
I've done lots of work on 1200's but am in northern Minnesota. I do have a spare short block and a complete motor
 

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If it does indeed have the compression like the dealer says, it sounds like the camchain tensioner or guide packed up and the camshafts went out of time, bending some valves. Like said, a leak down test will show the exact problem, you’ll hear the air leaking from the intake or exhaust, or in the crankcase if the bottom end has failed,which is unlikely. Remove the valve cover and check the camshaft timing marks.
 

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To have zero compression you have to have valves stuck open or a hole in the piston.I believe Craze1cars is on the right direction with a valve train problem or mouse debris in the engine.You said it ran w/o on stand.Maybe at that time the mouse nest was in the throttle body.Starting the sled might have moved the debris into intake track and is keeping the valves from closing.I had an experience with a car one time.Went to change the air filter and i noticed all this sand and debris in the bottom of the air box. I then stuffed a rag in the intake tube. Blew the air box out.Put in new air filter.Closed box. Started car and went to pull away and the car died. I knew immediately what the problem was,i forgot to remove the rag from the intake tube. Boy did i feel stupid but i got lucky and removed the rag and the car ran fine after. So i'am kinda comparing the rag to mouse debris. :shrug
 

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The dealer should be able to tell you what the issue is with out you spending $600.00. I would hope they have a bore scope, so they could inspect bores and valves with just pulling spark plugs. One of two things like mentioned earlier, debris in the intake or jumped timing.

Bob
 

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I agree with all the above, I find it hard to believe that all holes went bad. Sounds like bent valves to me. Places like NAPA will lend leakdown testers. You give them a deposit on the price of the tool and get it refunded when you return it. You will want to put the adapter in the plug hole and then put some air pressure to it, rotate the engine by hand. You should be able to clearly hear the air coming from the exhaust or the intake side depending on which valve is open. If at any time the valves don’t seal and stop flowing air you have a bent valve. You can also tell if you have bad rings with this tool. Just do a search for leak down test on YouTube. Real easy, go from there . And it won’t cost 600 bucks but will tell you all you need to know as to what direction you need to go. I’m shocked the dealer won’t do this without pulling engine. Good luck
 
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