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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I do hope you guys will be able to help me out. 800R pull start (no electric start, no battery).

I'm having a weird problem with my sled. It shuts down by itself, for no apparent reason. No beeps, no warnings, it just dies. And the gauges dont go to zero. They show the last reading.

It idles great. Choke until RPM goes down, flip choke off, idles around 1700-1800rpm, headlights, tailights working. I do a quick ride around the yard, 3-4 minutes, RER works fine, and then it dies. Funny thing, it can idle for 10 min and it doesnt dies....

- Stator shows +-6.35 at all yellow leads

- Brand new coil, spark plugs, plug wires (coil shows 0.6 between primary and 25 between wires)

- Brand new fuel pump

- Brand new top end

- Cleaned carbs

I'm at a loss. If it was overheating, I would get a warning on the gauge cluster. Cooler is not hot to the touch, just warm. I have to wait a while before I can start it again, and it would do the exact same thing. Run for a little while, and then dies. If I hold the throttle when pulling, it either backfire or run for like a second and die.

Please throw some ideas. I've been chasing this problem for a month. I thought it was the coil. They go bad when they get hot. Nope... Fuel pump? Nope...

Any help/ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thx
 

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If you're off-trail, remove the 15A fuse for the headlights and see if the problem disappears.

If on trail you can disconnect one of the two headlights. One light is needed for oncoming sleds to see you even in daylight.

I know you have a summit, but most owners have a decent amount of trail to reach their play pens.
 

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Been chasing an electrical problem after doing my top end on my 2008 Summit. Turns out it is a bad stator even though it passes the service manual stator test. I had a situation where I had the engine at full throttle, where the coil is using the most electricity and my engine just shut off. What is happening in my situation and I also believe in yours, is the stator heats up (in your case after 4 minutes of run time) when the stator heats up it doesn't generate enough power. If you remove the headlight fuse or disconnect a headlight like daag suggested, it will remove load off of the electrical system so the engine has enough electricity to run correctly.

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Will do the headlight test.

And also check the stator AC after it shuts down. Voltage should be lower.

Everything else is brand new. If it was a faulty ground or a short in the wiring, the problem would be intermittent.

It behaves the same every time. A component is failing. From what I read, it sounds like the stator is going kaput.
 

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Update;

Couldnt test the stator when it shuts down. It starts and shuts down after 10-15 sec now... I tested continuity between trigger coils wires: White/Blue and Yellow/Blue. Both shows OL (open circuit)....

I have very weak spark. Using an inline tester, the light just barely lights up when cranking. Unhooking the headlights didnt make any difference.

Problem seems to be the pickup coils. But I'm surprised it starts anyway since both are reading OL.
 

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Make sure your probes are making good contact on the P/U coil plug, pretty easy to get a false OL reading. I use a couple of 18 ga. brads inserted into the female ends to get a good read. Like others I'm also leaning towards the stator
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My bad! They both read 0.215, which is within specs. And they read the same at the ECM. Like said above, the probes didnt reach deep enough. I talked to RM Stator yesterday, they told me it sounds like the stator is going bad.

Now if I can get the flywheel off... It wont budge. I use an harmonic balancer puller.
 

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My bad! They both read 0.215, which is within specs. And they read the same at the ECM. Like said above, the probes didnt reach deep enough. I talked to RM Stator yesterday, they told me it sounds like the stator is going bad.

Now if I can get the flywheel off... It wont budge. I use an harmonic balancer puller.
I heated the flywheel nut before taking it off and some of that heat transferred to the flywheel. Maybe a little heat with a torch will help you out.

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Yeah, actually a lot of heat, and a sharp rap with a mallet. Times like this the factory puller is worth every nickel
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So I got the flywheel out. Heat and a few sharp hit, and bang, popped out.

But now the stator is stuck in there. I'll try a little heat and see if I can get it to budge. I wonder how I'm gonna get the wires thru that grommet......especially if there is a zip-tie holding the harnesses together.

Oh my... What a nightmare....
 

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So I got the flywheel out. Heat and a few sharp hit, and bang, popped out.

But now the stator is stuck in there. I'll try a little heat and see if I can get it to budge. I wonder how I'm gonna get the wires thru that grommet......especially if there is a zip-tie holding the harnesses together.

Oh my... What a nightmare....
I little heat should do it. I've never tested the strength of the stator core, but I imagine is has enough strength for a little persuasion.
 

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I little heat should do it. I've never tested the strength of the stator core, but I imagine is has enough strength for a little persuasion.
My thoughts as well. Even if it test good, I'll probably replace it anyway. Why go thru all that pain to install a 10 years old stator...

As for the wiring, I'm thinking about cutting the wires, and solder them back together. I dont think I will be able to get it all out thru the grommet. I cant reach the zip-tie.
 

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My thoughts as well. Even if it test good, I'll probably replace it anyway. Why go thru all that pain to install a 10 years old stator...

As for the wiring, I'm thinking about cutting the wires, and solder them back together. I dont think I will be able to get it all out thru the grommet. I cant reach the zip-tie.
On the bold, I agree that it is a good idea to change it for another OEM stator, but the price tag @ $645 CAN has most owners turn around and test the quality of various aftermarket ones.....

For the testing, I fear that we have skipped the DC Output Test to monitor the event.

The tie wrap is difficult to access. Then the grommet can be pushed out easy enough. It is split, so once it is out then you can remove it by getting it around the wires. But to reach the wires for the stator takes some work as they are tucked between the intake and engine mount. They are covered by an oil line and eRAVE tubes. You can ask Flemingo about this and how he would approach the challenge next time around. This is serious work and there is a cost to cheating.
 

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My thoughts as well. Even if it test good, I'll probably replace it anyway. Why go thru all that pain to install a 10 years old stator...

As for the wiring, I'm thinking about cutting the wires, and solder them back together. I dont think I will be able to get it all out thru the grommet. I cant reach the zip-tie.
It is very difficult to route all that stuff. What you could do is take out the rear engine mount bolts and loosen the front ones almost out or take them out as well. Then lift the rear of the engine and hold it up with something. I used a ratchet strap around and under the coolant elbow on the cylinder head with the other end attached to a rack on my garage ceiling. That gives you lots of room to move things over/under/around that engine mount and intake boot. I can't remember if I routed the wires under or over but I am pretty sure they work either way. I can go take a picture of my routing tonight.

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On the bold, I agree that it is a good idea to change it for another OEM stator, but the price tag @ $645 CAN has most owners turn around and test the quality of various aftermarket ones.....

For the testing, I fear that we have skipped the DC Output Test to monitor the event.

The tie wrap is difficult to access. Then the grommet can be pushed out easy enough. It is split, so once it is out then you can remove it by getting it around the wires. But to reach the wires for the stator takes some work as they are tucked between the intake and engine mount. They are covered by an oil line and eRAVE tubes. You can ask Flemingo about this and how he would approach the challenge next time around. This is serious work and there is a cost to cheating.
I'll go with RM Stator. I heard good things about them, and they're in Quebec. 300$ for a new stator and pickup coils.

As for testing DC, that was my plan. Until it decided not to start at all anymore..

It is very difficult to route all that stuff. What you could do is take out the rear engine mount bolts and loosen the front ones almost out or take them out as well. Then lift the rear of the engine and hold it up with something. I used a ratchet strap around and under the coolant elbow on the cylinder head with the other end attached to a rack on my garage ceiling. That gives you lots of room to move things over/under/around that engine mount and intake boot. I can't remember if I routed the wires under or over but I am pretty sure they work either way. I can go take a picture of my routing tonight.
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Thanks for the tip. Would definitely help to lift the engine a little bit. Even then, its a lot of work. I have to take the carbs out, and maybe the MAG side intake to give me some room to reach the grommet.

Seems easier to cut the wires, push the new wires thru the harness sleeve and solder....

Thanks for the help, really appreciate it. I'll keep updating this thread. Hopefully I will have a new stator here soon. And hopefully, the stator is the culprit...
 

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NO!! Dont cut the wires, remove the grommet, then the pick up wires and then the stator wires will come right out. It's stuck on there with 5910 sealant. You just need to rock the stator back and forth a few times to break the seal... Cut the wires :bighair ... C'MON MAN :headbang You can doo it, show some patience .
 

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NO!! Dont cut the wires, remove the grommet, then the pick up wires and then the stator wires will come right out. It's stuck on there with 5910 sealant. You just need to rock the stator back and forth a few times to break the seal... Cut the wires :bighair ... C'MON MAN :headbang You can doo it, show some patience .
yeah not to mention it is really hard to make a good connection and solder with those stator wires. They have lots of strands which makes it hard to join them and heat them up enough to melt the solder.

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