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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my 600 blizzard sdi idles way too low. it idles at about 900 to 1000. is there a way i could set the idle myself. or do i have to bring it to a dealer to get the tps reset. thanks guys,
 

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if it's doing it after having sat for a while (summer), don't touch the idle. Put fresh fuel into it, clean the intake boots/reed blocks, clean rave valves, charge battery and change plugs.
If everything is right on it, and it has always idled low, then, yes, take it to a dealer and have them set the idle/throttle position sensor
 

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if it is like my sdi, there is a throttle stop thingy at the end of the cable at the carbs, (don't touch the individual carb sync stops) 1/8 of a turn or less brough mine back from 1000 rpmish to 1250 -1300 rpm. ( can't remember for sure, might have been more like 1400 rpm, anyhow wasn't much to bring it back to specs)
 

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Have you pulled out the air box and cleaned the throttle bodies yet? The SDIs build up all kinds of belt crud on the butterflies and on the reeds because they pass air only, unlike a carb that has the gas vapor washing everything. Get a spray called B-12 chem-tool and use it to clean the butterflies and the reeds and you might see the issue resolved. I suspect that the belt gunk is restricting the air at idle resulting in the low rpm. Have it running, and spray it in bursts, using the throttle to keep it from being flooded out. It will make a big difference I am guessing.

I do mine every year and it always needs it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok so i took the carbs out and pulled the reeds to clean them. put it all back together and when i started it, theres a light that beeps and it wont go over 3,000 rpm. how would i fix this. thank you,
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
wiggle the tether until it gives you 2 quick beeps
got it, called the dealer and they said wiggle the teather and it worked. got it running again put fresh premium in it and when its warmed up it will idle at about 1500 for about 10 sec. and then it will drop back down to about 1000. im not to worried about the idle cause it idles just fine. my biggest problem is that it wont go into reverse. took a compression test when it was hot and it was 120 and 115. probably a little low. checked it with 2 cheaper guages but were the same unless both are wrong idk. but the sled runs great and has alot of power.
 

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I wonder if the injectors are a bit plugged causing less fuel to get to the motor resulting in a low idle?
 

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on mine the spot where the adjustment screw made contact on the plate did show a bit of a wear mark, i think this was caused by the air box shake which i have since corrected, again, very small turn of the screw to get 2-300 rpm back. this may have been the cuase who knows.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
all you guys with sdi's, do you have to drain the antifreeze to pull the throttlebody out cause of the coolant going through them? and also theres wires going in the rave valves. what are they for? want to take them out to clean them. anything i need to look out for? whats works best for you guys to clean them. also want to take the clutch off. anything i should look out for there? anything need to be greased in the clutch at all?
 

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don't take the throttle bodies off the sled, just get them mobile out of the boots and airbox so you can reach in there and clean-other wise you do have to unhook and drain coolant, throttle position sensor, cables... Raves: that is a hose going to them. Unhook the hose at the rave end, remove the caps, unbolt the raves from the block, remove the whole unit (don't tear the gasket if you can help it) mark top on your gasket so you get it on right: the rave is not quite symmetrical, and if the gasket is spun it can cause the valve to hang up on some sleds. I clean mine by soaking with oven cleaner for a while, wipe off, then scrape the heavy stuff with a plastic scraper, then polish the remainder with wire wheel.
clutches: yeah, clean them inside and out-there's a faq at the top that has all the how-to's
 

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are the 07 blizzard 600 sdi clutches splinned or are they tapered to seperate them?
don't take mine apart as often as i should, but pretty sure drive clutch is tapered and driven is key way. (my old one was that way)

you can alway look at the parts diagrams for reference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The clutch fit on the crank is tapered, the clutch assembly itself is splinled.
got it thanks, also when i took my reeds out it looked like it had a bunch of bumps on it like the rubber parts was bubleing up. is this normal? has anyone ever seen this before?
 

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this bubbling U mention is what is so well known as Delamination of the carb boots...ending in some sort of unregulated air into the engine and lean conditions....ie, 1st signs of failure. a thorough inspection is needed.
if any weal points/places are noticed, Replace them. if the rubber is still intact real good with the aluminum mounting plate, U might get a season out of them.
Upon replacement, i (and many/most others) recommend Boyesens with rage cages....because the design/body is now solid aluminum...eliminating this same failure.

guy on Ebay selling them for SDI for about $200....Username nyhorsepower

also, if U have not modified your airbox and installed mesh over the vent holes, i would do this mod as well.

Link to your same problem of Delamination on boots....and links to Boot options/opinions--good reading material
http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=455277&st=0&p=3395118&fromsearch=1&#entry3395118
http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=454060&st=0&p=3359246&fromsearch=1&#entry3359246
http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=345359&st=15&p=3334991&fromsearch=1&#entry3334991
http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=431189&st=45&p=3200658&fromsearch=1&#entry3200658

Link to airbox mod: all good reading but pgs 13-17 very informative. i still have material.
http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=37608&st=0
 

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my 600 blizzard sdi idles way too low. it idles at about 900 to 1000. is there a way i could set the idle myself. or do i have to bring it to a dealer to get the tps reset. thanks guys,
Theres nothing wrong with that idle mine runs 900-1000 also.
 

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with 4K miles on mine, i noticed the idle had dropped also...not wanting to stay running at times. i simply turned the idle screw a bit---problem solved!
No need to take to dealer for any reason at all to reset tps.
however, i do recommend a good cleaning/inspection of the throttle-bodies and reeds prior to adjustment.
 

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got it, called the dealer and they said wiggle the teather and it worked. got it running again put fresh premium in it and when its warmed up it will idle at about 1500 for about 10 sec. and then it will drop back down to about 1000. im not to worried about the idle cause it idles just fine. my biggest problem is that it wont go into reverse. took a compression test when it was hot and it was 120 and 115. probably a little low. checked it with 2 cheaper guages but were the same unless both are wrong idk. but the sled runs great and has alot of power.
No one mentioned what I put in bold for you. This is your issue, 100% guarantee.

The compression is too low. Not going into reverse is the biggest indicator of this. You need pistons and rings. Change them and you will have higher compression and even numbers between them when tested, provided your cylinders are not damamaged.

This will fix idle RPM and your RER stall.
 
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