Appears to be a 2006 SkiDoo 600 SDI Adrenaline. The bluebook values are not anywhere near what the actual market is doing however. Does the sled only have 1500 total miles on it with a recent engine rebuild?

 

yeah it only has 1500 since he rebuilt it

 

How many total miles are on the sled/chassis?

 

5346 miles

 

I wouldn't buy it as you & I have no idea how well the rebuild was done. Unless you have more information on this.

 

If it runs good and he has proof of the rebuild I'd go for it. You could do a compression check. Should be near 150psi if it's been rebuilt

 

I'm more concerned about having to be rebuilt at 5k miles, not the quality of the rebuild.

 

You won't find a better price/performance than the first generation REV sleds. The motors are easy to rebuild and used parts a plentiful and cheap. With 5k on the clock and "rebuilt" most likely it ate a cylinder due to throttle body boots or crank seal. It looks to be an X model which is the performance set up. In like condition they go for more than a standard version. Here's what I would check.

1- Shocks centered in the A arms. These sleds are easy to bend and nearly all are. As long as you can pass your finger on both sides of the spring between the A arm it's OK. Don't expect both sides to be the same.
2- Measure ski tip to a hard point on the tunnel length on each side. less than 1" and the Nun (front assembly) is straight enough.
3- Check the frame behind the clutch (left side) as best you can to see if it's straight. While cramming your head in there look to see if there is any black grease like stuff sprayed around (sign of a bad crank seal).
4- Open the hood and look at the furthest point forward on the exhaust pipe shield for any dents. That will tell you if teh front was crashed and plastics replaced (normally nobody straightens the pipe shield when they put it back together).
5- Inspect the throttle body boots for delamination. They should be new or replaced with G-force or Boysen reed assemblies. That will give an idea how serious the rebuild was done.
6- Check the tunnel for any bends.
7- Check the glide strips ( the plastic strips where the track rides on suspension) to see if they are evenly worn on both side (another sign that might mean bent suspension).
8- Start the engine without any throttle. A SDI should start only by cranking (or pulling). After a few moments it should idle at 1500rpm. Let it warm up so you can feel heat by touching the heat exchange under the tunnel at the rear of the sled.
9- Rev engine until clutches start to engage (sled start to move briefly). That should happen about 4500rpm. It's about the best wya you can check the clutches with being able to ride it.
10- Once it at operating temp. Hit the RER (reverse) button. It should should almost stall, but keeping going only in reverse (will be beeping). If if fails this repeatedly it's a sign of low compression.
11- start sled and watch the gauges for all teh warning lights. As it starts they all go through test. Once running their shouldn't be anything on except high beam and brake.
12- minor points. Look at oil reservoir Red oil means one of the premium brands, blue means it was run on cheap stuff (usually). Look to see if the foam noise suppression foam inside the engine compartment has been removed (another sign of care). If not it's probably melted all over the motor ;-) Get a sense on how much corrosion there is on all bolts internal and external to gauge how well it was washed, dried, and kept out of salt. This will give an idea if you're going to have electrical wiring issues.

If all of the above looks good the sled is worth between $3k - $4K in this market. Pre Covid it was about $1k less.