Witourh much iNfo , id be first looking at fuel pumps

 

I'll run with what Funkymasta suggested. Start with building your own in line fuel pressure gauge and make sure it stays around 58 psi. Sorry to say that you're not out of the woods with even this gauge. That rpm is around the same that the exhaust valves open. To give you an idea of the effect of a closed valve, in an engine protection mode it keeps the valves closed to prevent the rpm from rising too high. The problem is you can't see the valves opening when riding the sled.

 

How would I make my my own gauge? And where would I hook it up to? If the exhaust valves are dirty would this cause this issue? My next plan is to empty all the gas out of it and get fresh gas and add some sea foam, get the boyesen rage cage kit with the reeds and change the inline fuel filter.

 

How is your battery’s health? SDI’s need a real strong battery.

 

How is your battery's health? SDI's need a real strong battery.

I'm not exactly sure what it is I was reading about that as well. I notice the battery light blinks when I was riding it and sometimes the battery will make a buzzing noise. Is these indications that the battery is low? And I need to check the battery while it's running correct?

 

I'm not exactly sure what it is I was reading about that as well. I notice the battery light blinks when I was riding it and sometimes the battery will make a buzzing noise. Is these indications that the battery is low? And I need to check the battery while it's running correct?

I'd say that's a pretty good indication that you've got a battery or charging system issue!! Test your voltage at rest using a multimeter after the sled has been off for a while. Should be close to 12.8v or more. Running, you should be seeing around 14v.

 

I'd say that's a pretty good indication that you've got a battery or charging system issue!! Test your voltage at rest using a multimeter after the sled has been off for a while. Should be close to 12.8v or more. Running, you should be seeing around 14v.

I will do a test, if the battery is below 14v this could be the issue possibly?

 

I will do a test, if the battery is below 14v this could be the issue possibly?

You really need to test the at-rest voltage to determine battery health; if you test it while running (for the 14v), you've got another variable of the charging system coming into play.

 

All good above info. I'd do like icutmetal said. Throw a new battery in and see what happens first. Then I'd clean rave valves, then try and test fuel pumps. As far as clutching only way you'll know what's in it is to pop off primary. Probably not a clutch kit but p.o. could have put different primary spring in with a higher engagement. Also I'd check compression. Alot of time dying when going into reverse can be from low compression. My 06 wouldn't go over 7500rpm, ended up being spring came off Bellow and rave wouldn't open. But you definitely have a battery issue at minimum.

 

All good above info. I'd do like icutmetal said. Throw a new battery in and see what happens first. Then I'd clean rave valves, then try and test fuel pumps. As far as clutching only way you'll know what's in it is to pop off primary. Probably not a clutch kit but p.o. could have put different primary spring in with a higher engagement. Also I'd check compression. Alot of time dying when going into reverse can be from low compression. My 06 wouldn't go over 7500rpm, ended up being spring came off Bellow and rave wouldn't open. But you definitely have a battery issue at minimum.

When I bought the sled I did a compression check hot and cold using a craftsman tester, I had 135 both pistons cold and I had around 130 133 warm. So I believe compression is good. I will look into the primary and see what I can find.

 

I will do a test, if the battery is below 14v this could be the issue possibly?

For a running voltage you are looking for the highest possible voltage in the 14.x range. The highest I have seen with my own eyes was 14.8 Vdc +/- 0.05. Of course I am the type when you drive into my driveway after a good ride I may ask to keep the sled running so that I can check the running voltage. I do this a lot at the beginning of the season because this is when we see all the electrical problems that developed from poor storage practices and boosting a battery which should never be done.

In other words you only need to develop an interest to measure these things between sleds to see what can impact the running voltage, such as the battery health, battery state of charge, ground connections and any other main connections. Without knowing the health of the battery, the first thing I want to see is the running voltage being in the 14.x range. I don't mean to draw a line in the sand, but if it's in the13 range then I begin to question what is wrong. The lower it is the more I question what could possibly be wrong.

And don't boost your SDI or any Powersport for that matter. Heck, avoid boosting your car or truck. If you need to charge the battery in anything, disconnect the ground. Always remember to disconnect the ground first and reconnect it last. If you haven't had any problems with boosting in the last 30 years, this is how you will keep it that way :laugh_old:

 

How would I make my my own gauge? And where would I hook it up to? If the exhaust valves are dirty would this cause this issue? My next plan is to empty all the gas out of it and get fresh gas and add some sea foam, get the boyesen rage cage kit with the reeds and change the inline fuel filter.

Order a fuel pressure gauge online along with some quick connects, hose, fittings and fuel line clamps.

 

For a running voltage you are looking for the highest possible voltage in the 14.x range. The highest I have seen with my own eyes was 14.8 Vdc +/- 0.05. Of course I am the type when you drive into my driveway after a good ride I may ask to keep the sled running so that I can check the running voltage. I do this a lot at the beginning of the season because this is when we see all the electrical problems that developed from poor storage practices and boosting a battery which should never be done.

In other words you only need to develop an interest to measure these things between sleds to see what can impact the running voltage, such as the battery health, battery state of charge, ground connections and any other main connections. Without knowing the health of the battery, the first thing I want to see is the running voltage being in the 14.x range. I don't mean to draw a line in the sand, but if it's in the13 range then I begin to question what is wrong. The lower it is the more I question what could possibly be wrong.

And don't boost your SDI or any Powersport for that matter. Heck, avoid boosting your car or truck. If you need to charge the battery in anything, disconnect the ground. Always remember to disconnect the ground first and reconnect it last. If you haven't had any problems with boosting in the last 30 years, this is how you will keep it that way :laugh_old:

It looks to me like this Battery is pretty old and has had some time in the sled. I'm just gonna go ahead and order a new one to play it safe anyways. That way it gives me the satisfaction of knowing the battery is new and givvig the sled enough voltage it needs (of course I'll still check the running voltage of the new battery). And if the sled still does the bog I can scratch that off the list and keep Moving on to try and fix this.

 

Seafoam does work good for preventive maintenance and light cleaning of carbs and injectors, but try to avoid using it as a mechanic which it isn't meant to be. In other words if the injectors are partially clogged it will cause the sled to run lean, and by the time the Seafoarm works its magic the sled will have run too lean/hot for too long that the damage the the rings will be irreversible.

To learn more about Seafoam check their videos on Youtube. From the several videos that I saw I can back them up as having accurate information.

 

It looks to me like this Battery is pretty old and has had some time in the sled. I'm just gonna go ahead and order a new one to play it safe anyways. That way it gives me the satisfaction of knowing the battery is new and givvig the sled enough voltage it needs (of course I'll still check the running voltage of the new battery). And if the sled still does the bog I can scratch that off the list and keep Moving on to try and fix this.

If you don't mind I will make it simple for you. Go to your dealer and ask for a factory activated Yuasa battery sealed in its box which should be around $125 CAN. The code should read YTX20L. Before paying for the battery check the voltage. A recently manufactured YTX20L should read close to 13.0 Vdc. There is a sticker on the box that says to check the voltage every 3 months, so keep that in mind.

Once you have the new battery installed, keep close tabs on the voltage over the next 24 hours to make sure your SDI doesn't have a major leak. After 24 hours keep checking in longer intervals. The reason is that some SDIs have trouble and if the battery drains completely then it will tax the health of the brand new battery that you just spend $125 CAN to have a fresh start.

During storage keep the battery ground disconnected because the SDI like many autos does consume power, at least the ones that I checked. It's actually really easy to measure with your Multimeter set to mA and both prongs plugged into the 30A fuse socket. It takes roughly 30 seconds to measure and I suggest that you do. The procedure is outlined in the Shop Manual, so it's not a Daag44 thing

 

If you don't mind I will make it simple for you. Go to your dealer and ask for a factory activated Yuasa battery sealed in its box which should be around $125 CAN. The code should read YTX20L. Before paying for the battery check the voltage. A recently manufactured YTX20L should read close to 13.0 Vdc. There is a sticker on the box that says to check the voltage every 3 months, so keep that in mind.

Once you have the new battery installed, keep close tabs on the voltage over the next 24 hours to make sure your SDI doesn't have a major leak. After 24 hours keep checking in longer intervals. The reason is that some SDIs have trouble and if the battery drains completely then it will tax the health of the brand new battery that you just spend $125 CAN to have a fresh start.

During storage keep the battery ground disconnected because the SDI like many autos does consume power, at least the ones that I checked. It's actually really easy to measure with your Multimeter set to mA and both prongs plugged into the 30A fuse socket. It takes roughly 30 seconds to measure and I suggest that you do. The procedure is outlined in the Shop Manual, so it's not a Daag44 thing

Awesome thanks for the info from everybody, I'll get ahold of the dealer and make sure they have one. Besides the battery what else would cause this issue on the SDIs? Pretty much what else should I be checking/ doing??

 

All good above info. I'd do like icutmetal said. Throw a new battery in and see what happens first. Then I'd clean rave valves, then try and test fuel pumps. As far as clutching only way you'll know what's in it is to pop off primary. Probably not a clutch kit but p.o. could have put different primary spring in with a higher engagement. Also I'd check compression. Alot of time dying when going into reverse can be from low compression. My 06 wouldn't go over 7500rpm, ended up being spring came off Bellow and rave wouldn't open. But you definitely have a battery issue at minimum.

Through participating on DooTalk I realized that my initial guesses to the cause of many SDI problem was 50/50 and that's being generous to myself. For the reverse issue I do know from experience that poor System Voltage at very low rpm as the ECM tries to reverse the engine by changing the ignition timing, has a large effect.

As for the effect of low compression on the RER, it takes a very low compression on an SDI to cause this. I believe carb sleds are more sensitive to low compression. A thing to note is that I'm near Sea Level, so a poor compression for me can is a good compression at higher altitude :laugh_old:

 

Awesome thanks for the info from everybody, I'll get ahold of the dealer and make sure they have one. Besides the battery what else would cause this issue on the SDIs? Pretty much what else should I be checking/ doing??

Clutching, Fuel System including injectors, Electrical, Engine Management which includes sensors, eRAVE and a combination of problems. There are many things to check and a lot of work ahead on an SDI to gain the assurance it is working well. It's actually not that much different than with a sophisticated carb or ETEC.

 

Personally id look into electrical, after electrical are fixed and you still have the BOG , id look into the pump/pumps

 

Clutching, Fuel System including injectors, Electrical, Engine Management which includes sensors, eRAVE and a combination of problems. There are many things to check and a lot of work ahead on an SDI to gain the assurance it is working well. It's actually not that much different than with a sophisticated carb or ETEC.

what could the clutching do to have an effect on the bog? dirty clutches? belt slipping at high RPMs?

 

Personally id look into electrical, after electrical are fixed and you still have the BOG , id look into the pump/pumps

I imagine that it could be possible, but I haven't encountered that specific problem and I have forgotten a lot of the odd problems shared on DooTalk.

Here is what I know. If the fuel system doesn't deliver enough fuel then the engine will likely bog well before hitting the 7000+ rpm range.

If there isn't enough fuel pressure it will bog the moment after hitting the throttle from any rpm. Having said this, what is not enough fuel pressure? With running a fuel pressure gauge and Wideband I could see the fuel pressure drop in the 40s and the Wideband spike to its maximum reading - 18 for my AGM - without even bogging. I have also seen the Wideband spike to 18+ and the engine bog. It goes to show a number of things about the Air/Fuel ratio measured in the tuned pipe.

 

what could the clutching do to have an effect on the bog? dirty clutches? belt slipping at high RPMs?

The clutches may overshift due to worn parts like a sacked secondary spring. It would be like taking off with your car in 1 st gear and shortly after shifting into 5th with not enough engine power to increase the wheel speed at that gear ratio.

 

I imagine that it could be possible, but I haven't encountered that specific problem and I have forgotten a lot of the odd problems shared on DooTalk.

Here is what I know. If the fuel system doesn't deliver enough fuel then the engine will likely bog well before hitting the 7000+ rpm range.

If there isn't enough fuel pressure it will bog the moment after hitting the throttle from any rpm. Having said this, what is not enough fuel pressure? With running a fuel pressure gauge and Wideband I could see the fuel pressure drop in the 40s and the Wideband spike to its maximum reading - 18 for my AGM - without even bogging. I have also seen the Wideband spike to 18+ and the engine bog. It goes to show a number of things about the Air/Fuel ratio measured in the tuned pipe.

Thats why i almost wish it would bog at any given RPM because that definitely indicate there would be a fuel delivery problem, but its only at 7000-7200 RPM and based off what ive read it could be a number of things.

 

I forgot to mention in my original post that the gas tank builds up ALOT of pressure fast. more pressure then you would expect at times. is this because its warm out? if i were to go sit on it you can hear the pressure trying release from the tank, it makes a weird noise but you tell its for sure pressure in the tank then crack the cap and then feel it release. could the excessive pressure build up potentially block the pump from sucking fuel causing this BOG? i tried running it with the cap loose and at first i thought that was the problem. but after going to WOT again it did the bog again.

 

The pressure is normal. It is caused by the increase in RVP as the temperature of the gasoline rises. It's the same effect as leaving a jerry can out in the sun. For the effect on fuel pump, all it will do is help it. I have had the opposite happen (vacuum) and that did ruin the pump. That's why it is so important to make sure that both of those check valves are working to make sure no gasoline gets trapped in them during storage as BRP explained on DooTalk that it would destroy them.

See Reid Vapor Pressure