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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'll start by giving you guys a little history on the sled. It's a 2005 gsx 600 sdi with 2800 miles. I got a really good deal on it over the summer knowing that it had some bogging issues at high rpm. So during the off season I had put a new fuel filter on it, had the injectors sent to the dealer and cleaned and tested, installed new boysen rage cage boots, cleaned the throttle bodies, installed new fuel line and filter in the tank and installed new plugs. Compression test checked out good at around 140 each iirc. After doing all of that I thought I would've had fixed the bogging issues. I had also installed X package bars and risers on the gsx. So we finally get enough snow to ride and the sled runs great! For 50 miles or so then the problems start. It ran great all night, then we had stopped to let some people catch up and I get ready to take back off and the sled bogs down and shuts off. Starts right back up but won't rev above 3000 rpm and won't go anywhere. We tow it to the road to load it up and I just happen to start it again and it seems fine!? Put the belt back on and ride another 2 miles and it starts acting up again?
So here's my problem. It'll sit and idle fine at 1500rpm. If you let it sit for a period of time it will run good for a few minutes then start acting up. To the point it won't rev over 3000 rpms or move. I've put new plugs in it, tried a new relay in the r1 and r2 in the fuse box. The battery is a year old and is good. I've checked for rubbed through wires and I can't find anything. Remember everything I had done has 50 miles on it. Before this had happened I noticed the speedo needle was going hay wire so I unplugged the speed sensor assuming it was bad. Can anyone give me some help? Would the rave valves being dirty cause this? What am I missing?
 

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Bad ground connection,bad relay,corroded fuse on top of the battery.Maybe the battery isn't any good.Whats the voltage without the sled running-what's the voltage with the sled running? Check all those again!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Bad ground connection,bad relay,corroded fuse on top of the battery.Maybe the battery isn't any good.Whats the voltage without the sled running-what's the voltage with the sled running? Check all those again!!!
I'll have to go over all the grounds. I know where 2 are. By the battery and above the pipe left side under the hood. Is there more? Fuse above battery is good. I read through the relay thread and my local auto parts store only had 1 in stock that the thread said would be compatible. So I switched it back and forth between the 2 and nothing seems to change.. I'll check the battery again tomorrow. Thanks anyone else??
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I forgot to mention in my first post that the kill switch on the straight bars I installed doesn't work. I've been shutting the sled off by pulling the dess tether key
 

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My buddies 06 sdi would pull random crap on the trail, would not rev up etc.

dealer had it for a week, finally tried new dess problem solved

keep in mind that a dess from another sled will not work unless programmed
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My buddies 06 sdi would pull random crap on the trail, would not rev up etc.
dealer had it for a week, finally tried new dess problem solved

keep in mind that a dess from another sled will not work unless programmed
I'll have to check into that. I don't think the snows going to be around much longer so I was hoping it would be some what of a quick fix.
 

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If that dess key doesn't maintain good contact on the dess post it will start fun fine but it won't allow enough ROMs to move just about any dess cord will start your sled but it won't move. Only a cord programmed for your ecm will work. Try wriggling the cord on the post to see if that helps. I would check the kill switch wiring especially on the handle bars and in and on the riser block. No doubt its gonna be something simple once you find it
 

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Sounds like dess key problem
 

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You can get by without the I'll switch working. Providing the wiring isn't shorting out. Take the sled to the nearest dealer buy a new dess cord about $30 Have him program it to your sled cost maybe another $30. $60 quite possibly takes care of it. Worse case you now have a spare dess cord to carry in your pocket just in case yours gets damaged lost stolen etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If that dess key doesn't maintain good contact on the dess post it will start fun fine but it won't allow enough ROMs to move just about any dess cord will start your sled but it won't move. Only a cord programmed for your ecm will work. Try wriggling the cord on the post to see if that helps. I would check the kill switch wiring especially on the handle bars and in and on the riser block. No doubt its gonna be something simple once you find it
I'll try all that tomorrow. Dess key is starting to seem like the culprit
 

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Install Volt Gauge.
 

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"Install Volt Gauge."

to meter the voltage coming off the stator?
Exactly, to monitor the VR and Battery voltage all at the same time. For me knowing the voltage is like knowing how much gas is left in the tank. If tank is empty the sled will not run. Just recently CDog was having trouble with his SDI cutting out for no reason. When he put a gauge to the battery it was showing perfect voltage around 14.55 Vdc until the engine was brought to a higher rpm and the voltage dropped down to a couple of volts. I have never seen or heard such of thing, so I'm not sure what to think. Even if the stator quits, it's got be nearly impossible for a good battery to drop 12 volts in a matter of a few seconds and without burning the 30A fuse. So something very strange is going on with that one, but the point is at least he sees what is happening in real time. It takes a lot of the guess work out of the equation.
 

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Could it be an air pocket in the fuel system after. Having the injectors lines tank filter all having been replaced. Maybe the electronic fuel pump in the BBB tank getting weak. I'd say when they got the laptop plugged into the ecm to program a dess key for you have them check for any active or inactive codes
 

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Could it be an air pocket in the fuel system after. Having the injectors lines tank filter all having been replaced. Maybe the electronic fuel pump in the BBB tank getting weak. I'd say when they got the laptop plugged into the ecm to program a dess key for you have them check for any active or inactive codes
No to the air pocket in fuel line. That disappears in no time.

Fuel Pump, only way to know is with a fuel pressure test. But I think you may have found something. I went back to the 1st post and much of it could fit a problem with the Low Pressure fuel pump or the tank intake vent. The vent takes 5 min to test and the easiest way to eliminate the low pressure pump is to fill the tank to the neck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
No to the air pocket in fuel line. That disappears in no time.

Fuel Pump, only way to know is with a fuel pressure test. But I think you may have found something. I went back to the 1st post and much of it could fit a problem with the Low Pressure fuel pump or the tank intake vent. The vent takes 5 min to test and the easiest way to eliminate the low pressure pump is to fill the tank to the neck.
How do I go about testing the tank intake vent? I want to try as much as possible this morning before I run to the dealer for the dess key. Thanks everyone
 

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How do I go about testing the tank intake vent? I want to try as much as possible this morning before I run to the dealer for the dess key. Thanks everyone
Unscew gas cap and run it. It is possible fuel pressure is low, I considered this as well but odds are it will rev over 3k even with a weak fuel pump with the track in the air.
 
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