Do the gauges light-up for 30 seconds when pressing Start/RER ?

No spark on both pto and mag plugs?

Crank Position Sensor well plugged?

Ignition Coils well plugged?

If yes to the first two, then it sounds like something wrong with the connector for the Crank Position Sensor. It's located in a tight spot behind the mag side throttle body. Working to remove the throttle bodies would have at least nudged the wires and connector. They are not normally a problem, but it is something to consider because the ECM needs this input before it can trigger a spark.

 

You are right, That is the only wire in the area that could have been affected. The connector appears to be fully connected but I guess one of the wires could have been yanked. Is there a location where a continuity test could be performed with a multimeter to verify the connector/circuit is closed? Maybe at the ECM?

 

Lights work with start button and fuel is squirted into cylinders.

Both spark plugs are dead. Coils are well plugged. (I transferred complete mag with wires from other running sled to this one). little 3 wire plug is connected.

 

so I unplugged crank sensor and verified that the yellow/white stripe & baby-blue/yellow stripe wires check out thru wiring harness back to ECM module plug.

Now if I put a tester on two wires going to engine block, I'm guessing they connect to crank sensor and if I rotate the crankshaft I should get a reading twice per revolution of the circuit closing thus telling computer when to fire?

But if this were true, how would it know which cylinder is in which position?

Should it be a continuity check between the two wires? or some other test? Is a burst of voltage from stator sent thru one wire and then the other a half rotation later?

 

also 3 wire magneto plug checks out thru harness to ECM plug as well......

 

So I unplugged crank sensor and verified that the yellow/white stripe & baby-blue/yellow stripe wires check out thru wiring harness back to ECM module plug.

- Yellow/While stripe leads to ECM A plug connector #5

- Blue/Yellow stripe leads to ECM A plug connector #19

Now if I put a tester on two wires going to engine block, I'm guessing they connect to crank sensor and if I rotate the crankshaft I should get a reading twice per revolution of the circuit closing thus telling computer when to fire?

But if this were true, how would it know which cylinder is in which position?

- The CPS will generate multiple pulses per revolution, one for each encoder wheel tooth on the magneto flywheel. There is one longer interval from two missing teeth that the ECM will use to determine the position of the crank and figure the correct ignition timing.

Should it be a continuity check between the two wires [to engine block for the CPS]?

- Yes, the resistance to be expected from the CPS is 190-300 ohm.

or some other test? Is a burst of voltage from stator sent thru one wire and then the other a half rotation later?

- Yes, there will be a burst of voltage for each encoder wheel teeth. On your multimeter you will see this as more of a continuous voltage that can be expected in the range of 1-2 Vac. This is the voltage expected using the pull cord to turn over the engine.

You've been doing your homework to get this far without a manual

 

so when I check my wife's 600 sdi at the ECM plug there is continuity all the time even when I rotate the crank shaft slowly with the pull start cord. On my problem sled there is no continuity ever. Therefore, I'm guessing my problem is either a failed crank position sensor or I dislodged a wire within the crank shaft sensor plug of the 3 inch length of wire extending down to the stator area. I guess I have to pull the stator housing to expose the crank sensor and test the wire heading from the plug by the carb to the sensor in the stator area. I'm hoping to do this by releasing the rear motor mounts and rotating the motor forward so I don't have to perform a complete engine removal....A lot of f'n work to find out if it is a bad sensor or a wire got yanked in the plug.......will keep you posted......

 

yeah been doing homework all-right in the form of Rum and cokes!!! and a lot of time in the garage.........I appreciate your help.... Thank you for replying.....How's the snow hanging in up there?

 

so when I check my wife's 600 sdi at the ECM plug there is continuity all the time even when I rotate the crank shaft slowly with the pull start cord. On my problem sled there is no continuity ever. Therefore, I'm guessing my problem is either a failed crank position sensor or I dislodged a wire within the crank shaft sensor plug of the 3 inch length of wire extending down to the stator area. I guess I have to pull the stator housing to expose the crank sensor and test the wire heading from the plug by the carb to the sensor in the stator area. I'm hoping to do this by releasing the rear motor mounts and rotating the motor forward so I don't have to perform a complete engine removal....A lot of f'n work to find out if it is a bad sensor or a wire got yanked in the plug.......will keep you posted......

You guys seem to be doing better and better research every time! I can tell with your comment "A lot of f'n work to find out if it is a bad sensor or a wire got yanked in the plug" lol Now imagine that once you get this problem sorted out that you get a bog or misfire or hesitation, I am going to ask the same things, what are you measuring? It's not over yet, we have just begun. The 600HO SDI is know for a clean burn, which means it is running lean but on the rich side of the stoic ratio. This means that you need to make sure it is running right to ensure it will perform well just like those who boast they are problem free or the most reliable two strokes.

There is this guy who recently posted on DooTalk that from all his research the 600HO SDI was the perfect sled for him, but it performed poor in comparison to his old tech 600HO carb. That is a clear indication that his sled isn't running right. He wants to know if the problem is with his sled or how he perceives the power to be inadequate. Wow, that is a tall order!

The very first thing that comes to my mind is that the 600HO SDI should perform not only well, but be impressive. Once you can say that it is fast, then you know that it running well. Obviously it if running too well then that is also a problem lol

 

yeah been doing homework all-right in the form of Rum and cokes!!! and a lot of time in the garage.........I appreciate your help.... Thank you for replying.....How's the snow hanging in up there?

Home work is a big part of it, but be careful that it doesn't leave you astray.

I am certain that most of your time was spent looking at the sled thinking what the heck are you to look into next! I have been there and I still go to that dark place. I often can use the help, very often. Fortunately I get to think of the questions that I have and it leads to many of the same answers I would get on the forum. Just as I am posting my own results to ask for help I can see what others will ask from me next, so I got back and test further and get further. Often I will get results that defy what I have been reading. So I go back again and repeat the same tests. Eventually I begin to better understand what variables affect my own readings, like Compression.

It can be fun and a good learning experience, or it can be a head ache. Unfortunately it needs to become a head ache before it gets anywhere near a pleasure.

Let me give you a real world example that I know personally. A 2008 Honda Civic that runs perfectly fine on Thursday right until it is shut down and the next day it would never start again. On the following Monday it was sent to Honda professionals who literally said the the engine was finished with a compression of 20-60-60-60 (from #1 to #4 cylinder). A wonderfully running Civic went from a $5,000 value to $500, from running well to a No Start. This was the assessment from a Certified Honda Professional.

We have used sleds, so unless you are ready to go above and beyond Certified Technicians, you are kinda strapped with what you are told. Unless you can rise above it, you are probably better off with a 4 year warranty on a new sled. In other words you need to focus on all of your senses and believe that you can make it work. Who is going to help me to get that Honda Civic to work?

 

yeah been doing homework all-right in the form of Rum and cokes!!! and a lot of time in the garage.........I appreciate your help.... Thank you for replying.....How's the snow hanging in up there?

Are you actually doing this all without a manual? I have links to an 04 and an 05 manual, let me know if you want them. The 05 seems to be more comprehensive than the 04.

 

I removed the recoil & exposed the flywheel and crank position sensor / stator pick up assembly. The pick up assembly is cracked and had chunks sticking to the magnet face of it between it and the flywheel encoder teeth. I ordered the part and should see it this week.

Question: What is the goo that the position sensor gets placed in between it and the engine case?

Is it a skidoo stuff or can you use like caulk or form-a-gasket RTV?

 

Hey Smurfy71,

I would love to take you up on the manual link.

Thanks for the interest & help.

Mike

 

Hey Smurfy71,
I would love to take you up on the manual link.
Thanks for the interest & help.
Mike

Check your pm's

 

The RTV silicone is on the crank position sensor to dampen vibrations. Any automotive RTV silicone will do.

 

UPDATE***** Impossible coincidence. I noticed that something had taken a chunk out of the sensor (no continuity) so I purchased the crank position sensor and it arrived yesterday. I noticed as I was trying to remove the sensor there are chunks of some metal stuff on the magnet part of the sensor. I removed the flywheel and all the flywheel magnets remained stuck to the stator. One of the flywheel magnets is cracked and it was chunks of this that contacted the sensor and knocked it out. How crazy is this....remember I drove it on to the truck and it HAD spark when I noticed the boot was torn. I never started it after this and I only rotated the motor a handful of revolutions during changing out the intake boots. I guess it is better to happen now then out in the woods 20 miles from truck for the ignition to fail..... Thanks for all the help diagnosing this Dootalk Team!!!

I'll post back when I come up with a flywheel and get it running.