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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just picked up a 2004 gsx 600ho sdi rev for my wife. The gsx is not running and the previous owner has given up on it.

This is my first sdi and second rev as I have 04 mxz 500ss

In my search on this site I have to start with the battery.

But where would I go from there ?

Thanks

Jon
 

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Man..... lots of questions.... assuming it cranks....

What's the compression?

Do you have spark?

Is it getting fuel? Is the fuel pump primed?

What do the intake boots look like?

Check the relays as well.....
 

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^ all of that. And do a leak down test
 

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All that was said. All I/c engines need 3 things to start and run: adequate compression, a somewhat correctly timed spark, and a fairly close air/ fuel mixture. Do a compression test. If both cylinders have more than 90 lbs of squeeze,ok. Put a plug in each boot,ground them and spin it. It should be a nice, blue spark. Not yellow, that won't fire a compressed, turbulent mixture. Then, make sure it has fuel. Is the plug wet? You need a service manual and follow the procedure for testing the injection system. If it has those 3 things, it will run, maybe not perfect, but it will run. Start with the first 2, they are easy.
 

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If you have spark and compression, pull out a spark plug a send a couple squirts of starting fluid in there. Put the plug back in and crank it over. If it fires up or coughs for a short bit, then concentrate on the fuel system.
 

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A couple questions to narrow down the problem:

Does the gauge panel light-up after pressing the Start/RER once?

- If no, then check for +12v at the F11 fuse.

When pressing the Start/RER button once, do you hear the fuel pump run?

- This primes the in tank high pressure pump for 2 seconds.

- The pump may be a little difficult to hear unless there is no noise around.

- If no, then check for +12v at the F9 fuse when the gauges are lit.
 

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Only thing I say about compression. anything over 120 Good is considered 140. Every gauge is different but will get you a Rough idea



 

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Thanks for all the replies !

When I check all of the above I will report back

Hooked up battery and checked 30a inline = good
Checked all fuses in fues box all good. Getting no power in dash or fuel pump, any fuses I am missing ?
 

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Check for +12v at the F11 fuse. Positive lead on either of the fuse terminal and negative to ground. Or you can remove the fuse and put the + lead on the inside terminal of the F11 fuse socket. There needs to be power at the F11 fuse to power the gauges.
 

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So no power at f11 found a other post about the same problem. Took the fuse Box and ECM off and found a croaded mess in the factory join !!!!

Fixed the join we now have POWER ! gauges move km show up and fuel pump kicks in. No dess beeping and the sylinode just clicks starting motor does not turn over

Thanks for the reply dagg44 I think I found the f11 / wire probl in a search where you were helping someone else

THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP, PULLED THE CORD AND IT STARTED !!!!!
 

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I learned about how the ECM gets power through the F11 fuse to light-up the gauges after blowing a Voltage Regulator from causing a short while charging the battery. But the wire problem on the 600 SDI goes to those on this forum who have had this problem in the past. I have never seen a corroded factory crimp on any of the sleds in our local group, but we also trailer very little with tarps. We either ride them locally or transport them in enclosed trailers. I had a good conversation about those crimps with another member of this forum and we agreed that they should have been coated at the factory with an anti-corrosion spray solution, and the ECM connections should have had a weather seal. The only weather sealed connectors are the few Deutsch connectors. It only makes sense considering sleds receive a large amount of snow dust and large temperature fluctuations. The ECU in my cars and trucks are in the passenger bay for a good reason.

I wish that I had the foresight to ask for pictures, because so far I have yet to see one of a corroded splice. You have just begun to look into that SDI, and there will be plenty of other chances for good pictures. My advice it to keep a camera handy and never let an oppertunity go by, especially the spark plugs that tell an interesting tale. Forget the fancy plug chops as this just weights us down. A few times during the season I remove the plugs after a good ride with no extensive low speed. I'm close to the trail so it's easy for me, but sometimes I remove them at our club house to see how the different sleds are doing. Only a few times a year unless there is a problem that I am monitoring, nothing crazy. It only takes 5 min and tells me how the fuel system is doing and if I'm running the right heat range plugs. Also keep an eye out on the voltage and injectors. This engine is very easy to work on compared to the ETECs where everyting is hidden, and that is a big advantage. Anyways, I'm glad you got the sled running again.
 

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By the way, the 2004 600 SDI has the benefit of only having one fuel pump, but it is getting old. I maintain a similar 2004 MXZ that still operates on the original high pressure fuel pump, so not to worry too much, but I do check the pressure at the beginning of each season so that it is still within tolerance.
 

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The previous owner wouldn't be the first to give up on a 2004 SDI.I bought one with 1700mi real cheap that had an issue dropping a cylinder, thinking I could figure it out. I went through every connection in the harness, added grounds, checked the entire fuel system, tried a different ecu and the list goes on. Every time I thought I had it figured out and it was running good, it would drop a cylinder again, and it the issue would swap from side to side. I never did get it right and gave up and from what I hear the 3 or 4 dealers the next guy took it to failed as well. Last I knew it had been parted ou

I know it could have been fixed, its a machine. It just needed the right person with enough patience and understanding. I ran out of both.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have some realy good pictures of the corrosion on the wires but I can't figgure out how to put them up from my iphone. If someone will tell me I would like to share them as I was shocked at what I found !

This seams to be a solid sled needs lots of tlc but I think I will put some money into it.

I will have to do a search on how to do a fuel pump test

I think my wife will get good use out of this machine.

I remember that this machine takes special oil and I don't want to start a week long read to find out what is the best, will ipone oil work ?

Is there any way to limit the throttle safely UNTILL she gets use to it ?
 

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Please don't let your topic be bog down by oil. There are enough topics to cover that subject.
 

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Pictures of the wiring corrosion under the fuse block and the ecm

It seams like where the wires are run along under the fues block an the ecu the wire loom sits in a aluminum channel. I am guessing that snow and water collect in this channel and causes the wires to croade ?
 

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Found a picture of that aluminum channel you referred to. Never noticed until you mentioned it. You asked about a way to limit the throttle and I found a couple topics. In case you want to find some other ones, search for limit throttle. For the fuel pump test, a fuel pressure kit will be needed along with a male and female fuel line quick connects. Google Image fuel line quick connects will show what is available on the market. Should have no trouble getting them at your local auto part store, or order them from the dealer (part numbers below). The fuel pressure spec is 58 psi +/- 3. It should remain steady while the throttle is being pressed and released. Just remember to depressurize the fuel system before disconnecting the first.

In the picture of the trough you can see where the chassis ground was relocated to the left of the ECM. The original spot can be seen a little higher up, and it was just self tapped into the frame. All the essential systems to run the engine rely on this ground connection. I removed the other two posts on the wiring because it was just getting too far from what you asked, but if you need anything in that dept just ask. This should get you started.

Limiting the Throttle
550x vs. 600sdi for my girls... what do you think?!
12 year old on a 03 600HO?

IMG_1053 - Trough.jpg

Fuel Filter

513 033 133 OEM Filter assembly

709 000 100 OEM Filter only (requires Oetiker clamps)

513 033 047 Oetiker clamps

The fuel filter for any of the SDI sleds are sold as an assembly ready to install with all the quick connect fittings, but it's not cheap. You can buy just the filter, but you will need some Oetiker clamps and pliers to do a safe job. The filter can be found on the 2007 Cam-Am ATV Renegade 800 EFI parts fiche.

Fuel Line Quick Connects to build the pressure test kit

709 000 125 Female Quick Fitting straight
415 128 965 Female Quick Fitting 90°
513 033 135 Locking Clip

513 033 047 Oetiker clamps

I haven't been able to find the male connection in the parts fiche

Equus Fuel Pressure Tester Kit

Equus Fuel Pressure Tester Kit Product 25-1020-8.jpg
 

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When fabbing a fuel pressure test kit, try to make it so it fits well. The one in the picture is good example of one that doesn't work well. I don't have a picture with injectors in place, but I'm sure you get the idea. You may need a 90 deg quick connect to make it fit better. The hoses are fuel lines, but they are rigid and make it difficult to fit into tight places.

IMG_1101 - Fuel Pressure Test.jpg
 

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Wow thanks again for all the info, just got back from the cabin as we had a long weekend. I will be digging into this sled after work sometime this week, I will be sure to keep you guys updated !

I was going to start a new thred but decided to stick with this one to document my build, and that way if anyone is intrested they can follow along.

Had a deeper look at this sled, it has had a hard life but I think with time and some money this will make for a good sled for my wife to use up to the cabin.

My plans for this sled are to make a close to stock dependable sled, I am going to do a compression test an a fuel pressor test before I spend any big $ on this sled.

This sled has all the signs of having a nun replaced, bolts instead of rivets, and dents in the heat shield where it was driven into the frame when the sled hit something. But whoever did the replacment looks like they did it the right way.

I plan on adding the 440x tunnel braces
Removing all the foam under the hood
Removing exhaust shields
Removing clutch plastic side guard

The bolts are almost out of the y pipe, so that will get new gaskets and paint.
New wear bars
A good cleaning !
The hood hinge mount is broken

Also need to do a solder job where the stock join in the harness has corroded and come apart
 

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My girlfriend just picked up the same sled last week with 4900km on it. I think it is the perfect sled for her at the price range she wanted to spend. Sure beats my buddies 94 Polaris GT Lite 340 she was driving last year.

The only thing I have noticed so far is that it smokes a lot. About the same as my old 95 Grand Touring 470. Perhaps its because of the summarization fogging. Its something I'm going to keep my eye on.

Thanks to Smurfy71 here is the Shop Manual . Hopefully it will help the next time you need to do a fix.
 
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