You can get the float assemblies apart by carefully prying at the pivot with a small flat screw driver. Running some hot water over them first to slightly soften the plastic helps. The needles were sized slightly different from anything I had in my jar of old carb parts so I can't help you there. I'm sure you know BRP only sells the whole thing as an assembly, Arctic Cat sells the o-rings. I've posted the part number here a few times. I've also used Viton o-rings for GM fuel lines, 8mm or 5/16" is the size you want. I would be cautious on using just any old rubber o-ring from an assortment, they may not live in gasoline for long term. If you are able to find a replacement needle of exactly the same dimensions, please let us know. Hopefully yours are ok, luckily it seems the plastic seat doesn't wear the Viton tip of the needle.
We clean the carbs every year but our last trip my son 2004 600 ho was only going 60 miles on a tank. Now we did gear it down one tooth and changed the secondary helix from last year. But I also went one size lower on main jet but something is hurting the fuel economy not sure what
If the plugs are not tan? and it loads up at low rpms?(which you probly won't have tan plugs with minor flooding from overfull floatbowls)
The little hole in the center of the floats is were the gas flows thru,,stick a carb cleaner hose in it and flush it out/air hose it,,and you can blow thru it with your mouth and open and close the floats to see if it works,,I have tested many diff carbs that way to see if good
The o-ring can let fuel bypass when it gets dried and old and crusty deposits in the carb body/clean that and replace the o-rings,,,Cat and Polaris have the orings available for their similar TM40 carbs
Revs/carbs are old now a days,,I service a few friends revs and they all get replaced
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