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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys wondering if any of you Doods know why my 380 f with RER killls the spark on the plugs. This is the first time it happened i let the engine warm up before i pushed the RER then it died down and stalled. now the sled has no spark on the plugs. PLEASE HELP.
 

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Go simple. Maybe fouled plugs? Throw a spark tester on them or try a new set.

SparkTester_zpse612460b.jpg
 

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It wouldn't hurt to check out your idle speed, I know that if its not within 1500-1800 rpm when you put it into reverse, it won't go on in reverse. My 05 800 & 04 600 both did that when I first got them, idle was way too low and it wouldn't go in reverse. Bumped up the idle and fixed my problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
but there is no spark plugs now and it was running like a charm before hitting the RER button?????????
 

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Those Ducati CDI/coil pack units are prone to failure. It is somewhat odd that the sled lost spark only after the RER button was pushed though. Perhaps testing the RER switch circuit for a short would be in order, along with the kill switch/key/tether circuit, trigger coils and stator. If that all checks out, safe bet the CDI/coil pack is bad. You may be able to find a manual online, or may someone on here will be kind enough to send you a copy of the electrical troubleshooting and wiring diagram.
 

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Is this a DESS machine?

I'm thinking the RER got "stuck". Might just disconnect the battery for a few minutes too. I'm grasping though, I really don't know much about how the RER system really works.
 

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So it has no spark on either side ??, you pulled the plug's and neither one is lighting up ?? Have you tried another plug ??. Have you unplugged the RER button, to see if the spark return's, pretty strange it happened just then, All your fuses are good ? Got a spare coil, or can you borrow one you can try on it ????,
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Is this a DESS machine?

I'm thinking the RER got "stuck". Might just disconnect the battery for a few minutes too. I'm grasping though, I really don't know much about how the RER system really works.
there wasent a battery on there when i first started the machine, I then let it idel for 10 mins or so then i pushed the RER and it died, restarted it and tried RER again it died. I checked the plugs for spark and there was nothing. I checked all switches,RER button ect and unplugged them all one at a time still no spark. I then got the electric start going with a fresh battery and still nothing. I suck at wiring and hate it too lol.????????????????????????????????
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So it has no spark on either side ??, you pulled the plug's and neither one is lighting up ?? Have you tried another plug ??. Have you unplugged the RER button, to see if the spark return's, pretty strange it happened just then, All your fuses are good ? Got a spare coil, or can you borrow one you can try on it ????,
Tried all that but cant find a spare to try.
 

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The battery is only for the starter has nothing to do with the ignition. You said when pushing the rer the engine quits but does it start up again.
 

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okay, here is what I would do.

There is a plug that comes out of the stator and into the ignition module. It will have 3 wires.

Connect a multimeter to the Red and Black and pull the starter rope. It should show a reading around 7-15 volts AC

Disconnected the 4 wire plug between the engine module and the engine.

Connect a multimeter to the Blue/Yellow and White/Yellow and pull the starter rope. It should show a reading between .15 and .35 volts AC

If that is all working, then you know the stator is good.

Next will be the ignition module.

Measure the resistance between the spark plug cap and ground. Should be around 8-13 ohms.

If you're daring and your meter can handle a sudden 30k spike, connect the volt meter between the spark plug cap and ground, if you need to select a range, 20-35k is the range, and pull it over. If you get nothing, then you know the Ignition module is not doing its job. If you do get that voltage, then your spark plugs are bad.

ps. After doing the first two test, plug the connectors back in.

Also, disconnect all of the kills switch/ignition switches. Typically just remove the plug off the back of the key switch, and unplug the cable going to the kill switch.
 

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I think there is a sensor bad because when you push the rer button it kills the ignition for a moment but the crank has to be in a certain spot in order for it to reverse. But I don't know if this all done with the ignition module. My mxz 600 has that dess in it but my wife has a friend with a 380 lengend which would be the same, working a lot hours of late maybe this weekend i'll investigate.
 

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Worst case scenario is the CDI/coil combo is bad. Those are pricey. I think before I'd assume it is bad, I'd disconnect it, and ground out each pin of the connector one by one. Hopefully resetting it.
 
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