[AKcubpilot]

Hello! I thought I would share my project with you and a few questions I have. The reasons for this build are: It's headed to my remote cabin where it has to be flown in, so that limits my options.... And because I can.... I'm starting with a 2000 Tundra R, modifications will be a 151X15X1.5'' track with B550's sprockets, SC5-U rear suspension out of a 2014 Expedition sport, 250 Tundra gears, rebuild engine, oil injection deleted, Oil tank will be converted to a small reserve fuel tank, 3'' seat raise with under seat storage, 6'' handle bar raise, 6'' tunnel extension, significant front end beef ups... etc.

Possibility's I'd appreciate your input on are:

A more modern secondary clutch? Reason's would be for better shifting and parts availability. I'd also like any clutching recommendations you all have.

TMX 38 Carb and/or tempa flow and/or cold air intake... With the big track I'd like to best performance out of the little motor I can get without sacraficing any reliability.

One of my frustrations with the stock tundra is that when breaking trail in deep snow the engine heats up the cowling, where the air intake is and it's impossible to lean it enough to keep it from bogging down.

Thanks!

 

[AKcubpilot]

Also considering a very modest track port. The primary purpose being to loosen up the track for the little motor. I do not want to sacrifice floatation though.

 

[treeboy]

If your on Facebook join the ski-foo tundra owners page, lots of really good information there.

I’m doing close to the same thing with my 94 but with a 144 track. Definitely the air intake is in a bad spot being it just pulls the under hood warm air and the belt dust. I made another intake on the opposite side that draws outside cold air. Any good venting to keep the under hood temps helps too also wrapping the exhaust. As to the tempflow, I like the intelajet system it’s works get on my one snowbike and easy to tune.

 

[stevetundra]

Nice project. I'm a little jealous of that skid.

I'm not sure about going with a 38mm carb. From what I've read, I'm not sure a bigger carb will help unless you do a little porting on that motor as I think its stock porting limits its air flow. A bigger carb means less air velocity through the carb at lower rpms which can negatively effect mixture.

I can't help with clutching, though as you already know, clutching is pretty important.

On the motor, you could take .015-.020 off the head to increase compression without ill effects if you have access to 91 octane. I did that and beat the crap out of my 06 for 2 years. I didn't run into any issues until I went more aggressive with the ignition timing.....

 

[AKcubpilot]

Thanks for the tips. I'm not going to up the compression any because the motor is so dead reliable the way it is, and I don't want to have to run premium or avgas.... Sorry, I got carried away building and forgot to take pictures for a while.... I'm going to try the bigger carb with a cold air induction and we'll see. The new carb bolts up with with minimal modifications to the intake boot or air box. I can always go back to the stock carb easy enough.... Project is coming along. I forgot to mention before it's going to get the ski widening kit.

Added to the scope a little bit: Putting a left hand throttle on it, LED headlight and tail light, and with the LED's theoretically I have enough juice to run a heated seat, so I'm going to put that in too.

I decided I am going to try and retrofit the current generation Tundra Shock tubes and shocks. If this works, it'll give me a current suspension, not only will it have more travel, but it will have parts I can buy, especially shocks and springs. The more I can get away from parts I can't buy any more, the better.

I settled on an 8" bar extension, I think the height is going to be perfect for me. Rotated forward, the handle bars don't extend any further aft than they did before.

The last "new" plan is to raise the windshield by adding about 10'' to the bottom with a sheet of 1/8" UHMW. Project is going to slow down considerably now as I wait for parts to arrive and have to head out to work out of town for a while.

Oh, and I decided what the heck and ordered some LinQ bases, so I'll be able to quickly switch out the trapping box for a rack, spare gas, or whatever else I might dream up.

Current Questions: Where to start with jetting the new carb? It's a TM36... I was throwing around the idea of 2 sized bigger on the main jet to start and see where that gets me. Not sure about the needle setting yet. I have 2 exhausts for the machine, one stock and one I cut open and removed the insulation and baffling from the can... I may start with the stock one and then swap over. I assume that may change the jetting as well...

Lastly, a big thanks to B550 for machining not only the drive sprockets, but some bushings for the secondary clutch and all his advise.


Think That's it for now. As always I welcome your thoughts and ideas.

Sean

Tall handle bars! I'm 6'3'', hence the seat box and tall bars... I can kneel or stand without hunching over now. That's why I X-braced the arch. I may add a strap to the tunnel where the bottom of the steering post attaches yet.

 

[AKcubpilot]

Delete

 

[AKcubpilot]

Hi there, been a while but the machine is essentially done. Fine tuning a few things before taking it all apart, putting it in the plane, and flying it out to the cabin. If there's interest in the project I'm happy to share detail about how it went.

Sean

 

[James bay sledder]

to move the handlebars forward an inch or so:
take off the bolts that hold the top U bracket that hold the handle bar post in place, then put spacers of some kind with longer bolts. I used two sections of inch square pipe. Not only does this allow you to stand a little more forward, but, I pass all cables and wire between the two spacers, which means closing the hood wont kink or pull at anything. You have to cut the slot into the hood a little deeper though, so i only do this mod on my tundras that have a less than perfect hood. With your new carb there, you might be able to put more than roughly an inch, but with stock, the carb limits the spacers to around 1 inch

 

[James bay sledder]

nice build by the way. I am obsessed with low weight, so i wouldn't do many things that you've done.

I rode behind this guy who modified his tundra windshield almost exactly like that. i swear it was -20 and he wasn't wearing a hat or anything on his bald head. it makes the riding really cozy. I ride by tundras like bucking broncos, so windshields like that just don't make sense, but if you are into sitting and taking in the scenery...

 

[AKcubpilot]

Thanks! That's a great tip. Weight for this build is not my primary concern, I'm always at a low speed, usually pulling a laden sled. It's often -40 or colder when I'm running, so the big windshield is a big advantage, so is the heated seat.

 

[James bay sledder]

was removing the plastic bottom half of chassis as easy as a job as one would expect? I ask....but Im sure your bolts on that pristine beauty are way less rusty...

 

[AKcubpilot]

The tub? Yes, it’s pretty straight forward. It’s attached by large pop rivets from the factory. I re-attached it with rivnuts and screws.
I took it back apart and flew it up to its new home a few days ago. It’s all put together and running well. It seems to do everything I was hoping.

 

[James bay sledder]

holy. little skidoo in little plane. only problem is there is no room for the dead polar bear. you could literally go any where with that rig, as long as it is white. I've got some serious envy. sickest thing ive seen in a very long time