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I just got done with a full weekend of sledding in Idaho near Bear Lake. Before the ride I changed out the stock 17.5 pilot and put in #20's. What a huge difference that made! My sled has always had a slight stumble right off the bottom from between 1500 rpm's to about 4000. I read a lot of threads about this and fiddled with the fuel screws and it didn't fix it. I bought some #20 pilots and threw them in and now BAM right off the bottom 0-1/3 throttle there is no stumble
. (Read about the install a few posts down)

Next thing I did was got my S8X clutch kit from Dynamo-joe installed. Piece of cake to install (except for the helix aligning those darn splines is a bit of a pain). I spent about 2 hours scrubbing the clutches clean before the intall of the new parts. I put in 17.5 grams of weight in the pins and left my clickers on 3 (I run around 5000-10000 ft). The kit worked awesome. I held back on ordering this kit for over a year
man I should have got it wayyyyyy sooner. This kit flat out rocks! The engagement is at about 4200 which is about what my stock spring did. The kit makes the power come on a lot quicker, you really notice it on a trail. In the deep pow the sled keeps the power right there when you need it. I did notice that my sled would pull about 8250 rpm's then come back down to 8000 on clicker 3. I changed to clicker 2 but my sled would only pull about 7600 RPM's in the deep stuff so I went back to 3. Now my sled is a climbing monster!
I pulled the top highmark on every hill we came to. This kit rocks on hills that have kickers in the middle of the climb, before the S8X kit if I was pulling a hill and hit a kicker the rpm's would drop to about 7400 and stay there, which would make me loose track speed and make me pull out of the climb. Now with the S8X when I hit a kicker on a climb the rpm's will tach right back up to 8000 and keep the track speed. I am thinking of running the 18.3 pins and raising the clicker to 4, to see if it will top out at 8100 and fall to 7950.
The other part of this kit that made me hesitate for a long time was that I was afraid that it was going to make it a bear to handle in the trees????? I was dead wrong. Now it is even easier to ride in the trees because the power is there all the time. I really like to crawl through thick trees and make crazy lines, the stock set-up is pretty good for this, but the S8X kit is a great improvement. It still has a great slow crawl speed for creeping through trees, but now the power is there quicker if you need to hammer it to get out of something!
I love to have my skis floating high in the air and this kit definatly helps with that, just hit a small bump and pin it and HELLO the skis are high in the air
. Definatly worth the money!

The last mod is for weight. The HPS can rocks. It sounds awesome and your drop about 8-10 pounds. They claim 3-4 hp gain by putting this can on......this I am not sure of, if anything it adds to WOT but the weight, bling, and braaaaaap factor are worth the money.


I just recieved my 47 tooth bottom gear from www.hiperf.com and will be installing that this week. Can't wait to try that out!

Moral of the story!!
1. Switch to #20 pilots ($7)
2. Buy the S8X kit TODAY!!! ($260 us)
3. Ditch the suitcase and buy an HPS ($275)
4. Destroy every Cat, poo, yami out there!!!!
 

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utah_sledder said:
I just got done with a full weekend of sledding in Idaho near Bear Lake. Before the ride I changed out the stock 17.5 pilot and put in #20's. What a huge difference that made! My sled has always had a slight stumble right off the bottom from between 1500 rpm's to about 4000. I read a lot of threads about this and fiddled with the fuel screws and it didn't fix it. I bought some #20 pilots and threw them in and now BAM right off the bottom 0-1/3 throttle there is no stumble
.

Next thing I did was got my S8X clutch kit from Dynamo-joe installed. Piece of cake to install (except for the helix aligning those darn splines is a bit of a pain). I spent about 2 hours scrubbing the clutches clean before the intall of the new parts. I put in 17.5 grams of weight in the pins and left my clickers on 3 (I run around 5000-10000 ft). The kit worked awesome. I held back on ordering this kit for over a year
man I should have got it wayyyyyy sooner. This kit flat out rocks! The engagement is at about 4200 which is about what my stock spring did. The kit makes the power come on a lot quicker, you really notice it on a trail. In the deep pow the sled keeps the power right there when you need it. I did notice that my sled would pull about 8250 rpm's then come back down to 8000 on clicker 3. I changed to clicker 2 but my sled would only pull about 7600 RPM's in the deep stuff so I went back to 3. Now my sled is a climbing monster!
I pulled the top highmark on every hill we came to. This kit rocks on hills that have kickers in the middle of the climb, before the S8X kit if I was pulling a hill and hit a kicker the rpm's would drop to about 7400 and stay there, which would make me loose track speed and make me pull out of the climb. Now with the S8X when I hit a kicker on a climb the rpm's will tach right back up to 8000 and keep the track speed. I am thinking of running the 18.3 pins and raising the clicker to 4, to see if it will top out at 8100 and fall to 7950.
The other part of this kit that made me hesitate for a long time was that I was afraid that it was going to make it a bear to handle in the trees????? I was dead wrong. Now it is even easier to ride in the trees because the power is there all the time. I really like to crawl through thick trees and make crazy lines, the stock set-up is pretty good for this, but the S8X kit is a great improvement. It still has a great slow crawl speed for creeping through trees, but now the power is there quicker if you need to hammer it to get out of something!
I love to have my skis floating high in the air and this kit definatly helps with that, just hit a small bump and pin it and HELLO the skis are high in the air
. Definatly worth the money!

The last mod is for weight. The HPS can rocks. It sounds awesome and your drop about 8-10 pounds. They claim 3-4 hp gain by putting this can on......this I am not sure of, if anything it adds to WOT but the weight, bling, and braaaaaap factor are worth the money.


I just recieved my 47 tooth bottom gear from www.hiperf.com and will be installing that this week. Can't wait to try that out!

Moral of the story!!
1. Switch to #20 pilots ($7)
2. Buy the S8X kit TODAY!!! ($260 us)
3. Ditch the suitcase and buy an HPS ($275)
4. Destroy every Cat, poo, yami out there!!!!
[snapback]700554[/snapback]​
DITTO on all you said...am trying to fix my burble/stumble/bog whatevber you want to call it..and for me it is in the low end too...am headed to Doo Dealer now to get the pilots...hopefully I can figure out how to install them....

Joey ROCKS now we all just need to figure out how to get him to Doo this full time!!!

MTDream
 

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Nice Post. I've got the HPS can and like it, still waiting for Joe to figure out the 06 secondary roller that came on the X. Good to hear your opinion on the tree issue, I have been concerned about that as well.
 

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Metalhead
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Grey Fox said:
Nice Post. I've got the HPS can and like it, still waiting for Joe to figure out the 06 secondary roller that came on the X. Good to hear your opinion on the tree issue, I have been concerned about that as well.
[snapback]700642[/snapback]​
Just waiting for the 7th test helix. Dale is making it tomorrow and it will be on its way to me and some "evaulation buddies" he he he

...getting feedback that its good so far but I think there is little more holeshot from it.

 

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utah_sledder said:
<snip>
The other part of this kit that made me hesitate for a long time was that I was afraid that it was going to make it a bear to handle in the trees????? I was dead wrong. Now it is even easier to ride in the trees because the power is there all the time. I really like to crawl through thick trees and make crazy lines, the stock set-up is pretty good for this, but the S8X kit is a great improvement. It still has a great slow crawl speed for creeping through trees, but now the power is there quicker if you need to hammer it to get out of something!
I love to have my skis floating high in the air and this kit definatly helps with that, just hit a small bump and pin it and HELLO the skis are high in the air
. Definatly worth the money!

The last mod is for weight. The HPS can rocks. It sounds awesome and your drop about 8-10 pounds. They claim 3-4 hp gain by putting this can on......this I am not sure of, if anything it adds to WOT but the weight, bling, and braaaaaap factor are worth the money.


I just recieved my 47 tooth bottom gear from www.hiperf.com and will be installing that this week. Can't wait to try that out!

[snapback]700554[/snapback]​
You have got the set up now!
I have the same mods (S8X, HPS, 47 tooth). Boondocking is a blast with such a responsive clutch. The added engine braking helps a lot when going down hill through trees.
My jetting has been spot-on. Maybe a little bit rich at first, but since I added the can I have cappuccino colored plugs.
Never a bog, stumble or hesitation. It likes gas, but it runs hard.
I also run Sea Foam gas treatment. I have always had good results using it.
Just love the sound of the HPS...kind of a snarl or a scowl.
Just wait till you get that 47 in! Hold On!!

hickster
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
For those of you that are concerned about changing the pilots FEAR NOT!!!! These are a piece of cake to change! Here is the break down.

Pull the secondary clutch, remove the airbox, (while you are in there move the stupid DPM hose that makes it difficult to get to the second screw, you can see a picture of this on ttabs mod shop post, you want to put that hose behind the connecting rods of the two carbs). Yank the air box and set aside (don't forget to remove the air box plug on the top (wire cluster). Next you will loosen the carb boot screws and pull both of the carbs out just far enough to get to the float bowls. Tilt the carbs forward, just far enough for the float bowls to clear the jackshaft. Then take out the small phillips screw from the bottom where the float bowl meets the carb body (there is only one on each carb). Next remove the large "drain" bolt from the bottom and drain the gas, take this bolt out all the way and the float bowl will come right off. There now you can see the main jet right in the middle of the carb bottom (hex head looking thing with a small hole in the middle of it). Right next to that there is a metal tube leading up into the carb. Take a small (short) flat-blade screw driver and unscrew the pilot jet. It only has about 5 threads so it will come out really quick, (try not to drop the jet down into the motor pan could be a real pain in the arse to get out). Now you are on the home stretch just screw the new pilot jet up into the carb. Reassemble the carb in reverse order. Then move to the other carb. It only took me about 15 min to do both carbs. After putting both carbs back together re-install the carbs onto the carb boots (might as well check them while you got it apart and make sure the rubber is still good) the carbs will slide back into the boots by wiggling them back and forth a little make sure the rubber is not caught anywhere and tighten up the clamps. Toss the airbox back on, reinstall the electrical connector on the top, spread a little anti-seize on the secondary splines install the secondary clutch. Put the belt back on, give it a few pulls on the starter line and smile to yourself because you now know that changing pilot (and main jets) are so dang easy you can't belive that you waited for some wingnut from Utah to tell you how to do it. Put the sled up on a track stand and give er a couple of blips of the throttle to get the air out of the system.........and never look back because the low end stumble is now gone forever!
 

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sledhead
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bull-doozer said:
Anyone find they ran a little leaner with the hps can?
[snapback]701921[/snapback]​
I have not heard that one yet

But, I and many others have removed the packing and inner housing screen that comes apart on the HPS (poor welds) sounds a bit louder now that the upper baffle packing and screen housing is removed, oh well

BTW, You will hear a high freq vib from the right side area when the can starts to come apart
 

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I am real close to my sled running perfect, I am running 2 of the 3 mods now but by this weekend I will be running #20 pilot Jets. Its just fun as hell to ride my 800 Rev Thanks Joe & all from Doo talk
 

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bull-doozer said:
Anyone find they ran a little leaner with the hps can?
[snapback]701921[/snapback]​
I think I heard that somewhere...
"Maybe a little bit rich at first, but since I added the can I have cappuccino colored plugs."

Yes. Mine leaned up just a little bit. It's just right now.
hickster
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I just finished installing my spacer to make my secondary "float" got it from duck899
. I also got my new 47 bottom tooth gear installed. I can't wait to give it a rip this weekend.


After installing the floating secondary spacer I put the sled up on a stand to adjust the belt tension. I started it up and gave the throttle a couple of braaaap braaaaaps I was amazed at how much the secondary now moves around. At idle it comes all the way out to the end of the bolt washer but as the engine rpm goes up the secondary seemed to move toward the back a little more. I am really excited to see how the belt now "self" aligns. It would be impossible to align the clutches for every situation. Now IMHO the belt will always be in the sweet spot of the secondary. My '98 arctic crap came stock with a floating secondary. I think this will be a great fix for those of us who don't want to spend all day aligning clutches and measuring X vs. Y vs. Z.
 

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utah_sledder said:
I just finished installing my spacer to make my secondary "float" got it from duck899
. I also got my new 47 bottom tooth gear installed. I can't wait to give it a rip this weekend.


After installing the floating secondary spacer I put the sled up on a stand to adjust the belt tension. I started it up and gave the throttle a couple of braaaap braaaaaps I was amazed at how much the secondary now moves around. At idle it comes all the way out to the end of the bolt washer but as the engine rpm goes up the secondary seemed to move toward the back a little more. I am really excited to see how the belt now "self" aligns. It would be impossible to align the clutches for every situation. Now IMHO the belt will always be in the sweet spot of the secondary. My '98 arctic crap came stock with a floating secondary. I think this will be a great fix for those of us who don't want to spend all day aligning clutches and measuring X vs. Y vs. Z.

[snapback]706255[/snapback]​
Well let us know how it turns out.
 

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Metalhead
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I have about 550 miles on my floating secondary now.
I let it move about 1mm[.040"] and I lay on the gas for like 20 seconds now w/out letting off i been watching my jetting with a borescope, so im not worried about burning down...
...anyhoo, Im running 20:47 gears with the small drivers now and I think an addition to the reason my clutches never get spit sizzle is due to low gearing.

The belt travel across so much more of the sheave face now with the least amount of slipping.

I wish I could come up with a way to measure the performance gain by having a floating secondary, the only way I can think right now is doing exercises in a deep snow field making a pass w/locked secondary and measure temps, then make passes with floating secondary and measure temps.
...but to think if that with locked secondary and higher temperatures, why is there higher heat and neglect the secondary being locked but what is the cause, it must still be slight misalignment?

...what if you get heat with floating secondary, I mean more heat than locked secondary?

View attachment 47022
 
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