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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know that this thread is beat to death. I have searched all of the threads on this forum and can't find the details for drilling out the crankcase to get oil to the PTO bearing.

The sled is a 1998 Mach 1 with 3,000 miles on it. Went riding this weekend and it finally blew out the PTO bearing. I stoped immediately and think I may have saved the other bearings...not sure yet as I pulled the motor but still need to pull the crank.

1. Any advice on a reman crank and where?
2. Diagram on drilling out the oil hole in the crankcase.
3. What new bearings to use? If I order the PTO bearings on Extreme Powersports will I get an updated bearing??

Thanks in advance for any help.
Dave
 

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ddeem said:
I know that this thread is beat to death. I have searched all of the threads on this forum and can't find the details for drilling out the crankcase to get oil to the PTO bearing.

The sled is a 1998 Mach 1 with 3,000 miles on it. Went riding this weekend and it finally blew out the PTO bearing. I stoped immediately and think I may have saved the other bearings...not sure yet as I pulled the motor but still need to pull the crank.

1. Any advice on a reman crank and where?
2. Diagram on drilling out the oil hole in the crankcase.
3. What new bearings to use? If I order the PTO bearings on Extreme Powersports will I get an updated bearing??

Thanks in advance for any help.
Dave
[snapback]716115[/snapback]​
We just put a new crank in without the plastic caged bearings,pto side went also it was recommended that we run 100 to 1 oil in the tank,our case was drilled already.
 

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Try the Crank Shop. 802 878 3615. I'll also check on that diagram for you tomorrow (If I remember-highly unlikely!). I'm pretty sure the new crank will have whatever bearing update Rotax wanted done.
 

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Drilling the angled hole is easy. You'll agree after you do one. Just use a 1/4 drill bit and start the hole in the area that the factory almost used for the hole. Angle the drill so that the chuck almost touches the transfer surface on the opposite port and you'll have the perfect angle to drill in between the two bearings. Be patient and check the angle before you start and you'll be fine.

The good news? I've never seen a failure after the angled hole is drilled.

Some people plumb an oil line to in between the two bearings which I suppose would also work quite well.

Good luck--Rod
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the information. This does not sound like a very hard fix. I am not scared to drill the crankcase but wanted to make sure I drill the right hole. When I pull it apart I am sure i will see.

Final questions:

1 - Hole to be drilled in the top case right ? (I am sure I will see)
2 - If I need to replace the PTO bearings only and do not need an entire crank, how do I get the metal caged bearing? Do I order a later model bearing (ie. 1999 Mach 1?) or will the original bearing come with the upgraded cage. Any suggestions where to buy? (I typically order online from Extreme Powersports).

Thanks again...Great info that will be usefull to anyone with the 1998 dilemma.

Rod - Thanks for the help with this one.

Dave
 

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ddeem said:
Thanks for the information. This does not sound like a very hard fix. I am not scared to drill the crankcase but wanted to make sure I drill the right hole. When I pull it apart I am sure i will see.

Final questions:

1 - Hole to be drilled in the top case right ? (I am sure I will see)
2 - If I need to replace the PTO bearings only and do not need an entire crank, how do I get the metal caged bearing? Do I order a later model bearing (ie. 1999 Mach 1?) or will the original bearing come with the upgraded cage. Any suggestions where to buy? (I typically order online from Extreme Powersports).

Thanks again...Great info that will be usefull to anyone with the 1998 dilemma.

Rod - Thanks for the help with this one.

Dave
[snapback]716630[/snapback]​
Yes it is the top half of the case and just don't order the bearing from Ski-Doo every aftermarket bearing I have seen uses a steel cage Koyo , Timkin etc all are top quality and once they get oil will last a long time .
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Great. I will go with the aftermarket bearings.

Do you know of a supplier / part number for this crank PTO bearings? I just need to figure out were to order them / part number and I am all set.

Thanks again for the great info.

Dave
 

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Sorry i don't know the #s but any big supplier that sells aftermarket pistons, gaskets etc should have a listing for your machine .
 

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If you go by application ,yes the pins will be there .If they are not there you have the wrong bearing !
Trust me you will have no problems very few engine shops use the original Ski-Doo bearings simply because of the plastic cages . Drill the case for the oil hole , save the money from not buying the "isoflex" grease and ride with no concerns about how long your crank will last "this time" .
 

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modifier said:
If you go by application ,yes the pins will be there .If they are not there you have the wrong bearing !
Trust me you will have no problems very few engine shops use the original Ski-Doo bearings simply because of the plastic cages . Drill the case for the oil hole , save the money from not buying the "isoflex" grease and ride with no concerns about how long your crank will last "this time" .
[snapback]716807[/snapback]​
The schematics I have seen on the 98 700 shows a seal between the two bearings.Is the inner seal eliminated when drilling the oil hole? Are you getting oil to both bearings?Chuck.
 

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the seal between the bearings is used on 99 and up models or 98's that have the updated crankcases ( the updated cases have a groove machined in them for the seal). the outer pto bearing is sealed off and isoflex grease is packed into it. you can get a remanufactured crank from bombardier and it is a smokin deal. ronnies.com has them for 475 with a 12 month factory warranty. this is what i would do if you need a rod. otherwise get some bearings and drill the holes. also, make sure you chamfer the holes with a countersink, it will eliminate any burrs. i have done 5 of these ( all 98's formula 3's and mach 1's and no comebacks) it's a piece of cake and it happens to all of them!
 

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The sea-doo clinic out of Lower Michigan have cranks on hand. I just got one.
$450.00 exchange with warranty. All steal caged bearings.
The place is hillabrands and you can look them up at
www.seadooclinic.com or www.outboardjunkyard.com
They doo a excellent refurbishing. They even bead blast all the Iron to make it appear new.

Highly Recomended!


Oh yes, you doo need to drill out the oil passage for the PTO
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Got the crank out and the middle bearings seem loose to me...Think I will go with the rebuilt crank path. PTO bearings are tore up and plastic cage is jammed between the two PTO bearings.

Here is a pic of the top crankcase (not cleaned up yet). Can you guy's just confirm again the direction of the drilling and where the drill should exit. Do I drill as tight an angle as I can toward the cylinder? Someone posted a good description but I was just a little unclear of the surface he was referring too. I know I get only one shot at this...

I promise to post all of the pictures at the end and all of the deatils for cranks, etc. so that this topic is put to bed. I have taken really good pictures to post.

Thanks again for all of the help.

Dave
 

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can you tell if this has been done just by pulling the jugs? or do you have to split.
I am getting a rattle/knock at a cold start, sounds like its the clutch? if I rev it up a couple time it goes away. think this is a bearing? 98 fIII 700.
 

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Dave,
Looks like your's is already drilled. Can you blow air thru the hole next to the seal groove on the outter end of the PTO? Before you assemble, make sure the oil holes did not collect any of the plastic cage material. You may want to drill the PTO oil hole larger if it is not at least 1/4" already. Hope you take my advice with the guy's from sea-doo clinics cranks. Last I talked with Mark they had 2 on hand.
They doo not use the "edit for bad language" a nine plastic caged bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The outer hole by the seal does go thru to the port. I guess this one was already drilled? From reading all of the posts, I thought that a hole between the two bearings needed to be drilled too.

I did order the crank from Mark at Sea-Doo Clinic...Had it in stock for $450.00 plus $200.00 return.

If this correct and the oil hole is drilled, my bearings probably went because the motor was overheated prior to me getting the sled (o-rings in head were bad). Must have melted the cages and self destructed from that point. The other bearings just seem sloppy to me that is why I am going with the reman crank.

Thanks for the help. From your perspective, I do not need any more oil holes?

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Just got my crank from Sea-Doo clinic. It looks great and my bearings on my old one were really loose...

Just one concearn. There are no dow pins on the bearings. I called Mark at Sea-Doo clinic and he said that it is fine. I thought I read posts that mentioned that bearings could spin without the dow pins.

Doesn't seem like anything I do is easy. Any feedback from anyone on this issue? If I put this thing back together and spin the bearings I am toast.

Dave
 
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