[Newbee401]

I have a formula III 1998 vin says Sept 1997 it starts and runs great. The clutch engages around 4500rpm. My problem is it gets to 8000-9000 rpm just over half throttle and the speed is only 100-110kph (62-65mph). If I push it I sounds like it's just coming to life and ready to really roar..

I don't know much about clutching and chains. Is it possible the previous owner changed both sprockets to something for the mountains? (That's how the carb jets were set).
Or a clutch issue and not fully engaging and shooting up my rpm?

Thanks.

 

[Ryan76]

I have a formula III 1998? ( Going to do a vin check) it starts and runs great. The clutch seems to engage around 4500rpm. My problem is it gets to 8000-9000 rpm just over half throttle and the speed is only 100-110kph (62-65mph). If I push it I sounds like it's just coming to life and ready to really roar..

I don't know much about clutching and chains. Is it possible the previous owner changed both sprockets to something for the mountains? (That's how the carb jets were set).
Or a clutch issue and not fully engaging and shooting up my rpm?

Thanks.

What are the tra clicker numbers set on? Any idea? Its fairly easy to get a triple to turn high rpm with 286 ramps. Using a 200-350 spring or so would get you easy 8800 on clicker 5-6

 

[Newbee401]

That the clicker (screw) on the drive pulley with 1-6? I just read about that today and haven't have a chance to look.

 

[Ryan76]

That the clicker (screw) on the drive pulley with 1-6? I just read about that today and haven't have a chance to look.

yes

 

[gpt]

Definitely sounds like a clutch problem. More than likely, the problem is the secondary clutch though both clutches should be gone through.

 

[el__gato]

Agree the clutch needs attention. I would make sure you have the correct weight and spring in the primary for your elevation. Sounds to me like it may still be calibrated for above 4000ft.

 

[LETMGROW]

I agree probably most of your issue is caused by dirty, worn or re-calibrated clutches. Only removal and total disassembly will tell for sure. There are plenty of sites on "U Tube" which outline the procedures and show the tools you will need to service these clutches. Only clutches in top condition and clean will work as they are designed to do. I would recommend a new primary clutch spring and new sliders (6) in the clutch plus any other worn parts you should find.
By all means you should be removing the chaincase cover and inspecting the chain and sprockets for wear and condition and for numbers which will reveal the ratio and you can make comparisons to the Ski Doo Parts fische or your shop manual I would remove the chain and sprockets and give them a through cleaning and clean the inside of the chaincase and cover and refill the case with recommended fluid. Personally I use "Dexron VI" synthetic auto transmission fluid but there are many other choices.
Don't be afraid to come back on here and ask questions and by all means keep us informed of your progress and outcome.

 

[Newbee401]

Ok I changed the calibration clicker back from 5 to 3. But looking at that cart it should be 4. I'm around 2200 Ft. I jetted the carbs for 2000ft. They were set for almost 10000. Idk where this guy was riding...
Today was probably the last day or so for riding around here.
I'm going to open up the crank case also and see what condition and size the gears and chain are.
I got some YouTube videos to watch.

 

[LETMGROW]

Don't rely entirely on "You Tube". If you don't have one already you need a service manual also.
Don't get too hung up on the number you set the clickers on. Machines can vary due to ramp, pin, and spring calibrations and condition, and overall clutch condition.

 

[David H]

Ok I changed the calibration clicker back from 5 to 3.

The way I read this it sounds like you only adjusted one clicker. Just in case, because many here have made this mistake, there are 3 clickers on that TRA and they all should be set the same...just in case.

 

[Newbee401]

I have a service manual downloaded and I changed all three clickers. Is there aftermarket springs that work or do I have to find some old stock as they don't seem to make the green blue ones anymore. If mine are incorrect.

 

[David H]

I see the stock spring available at Amazon, Ebay, Ebay.ca, Crankshop and a number of other vendors. 414768200

 

[LETMGROW]

Venom Products has replacement springs to replace your BRP spring number 414768200 spring. 200-290 Green Blue. Their color coding is different probably being the Green-Blue is propriitory for BRP. I have two of these springs in my spare parts and I tested them when they arrived to be sure they were the exact replacement. I had also called and talked to someone at Venom to verify. Extremely nice folks to deal with.
Cost $29.95 each. Delivery was only a couple days.

My apoligies. I forgot to post the Venom part number. 210141-003