1996 Skandic WT 500F - 10k Maintenance

924 Views 27 Replies 10 Participants Last post by LabradorBoy, 1 d ago

LabradorBoy

Discussion Starter · 16 d ago

Picked up this old girl late last Fall to use as a groomer donkey. Great shape, but it was making funny sounds in the drivetrain and finally at the end of the season it started leaking gearbox oil. I feared that the gearbox had failed and she was headed for the scrap heap.

Tore into it yesterday and removed the rear skid, driveaxle and gearbox... Found the grinding sound, driveaxle brg on the throttle side was gone gone and seized in the holder.

Got it on the bench and it appears that the shaft was spinning inside the inner race and the shaft is worn down: should be 25mm, is more like 23mm at shoulder and 21mm at the end of the shaft. Crap. There are no machine shops here that can practically build up the shaft again, that would require a significant investment.

Not sure what my options are but I mocked things up with electrical tape to center the brg half decent tonight and I'm contemplating welding the brg on, being careful with heat. Hardest part would be that the brg has to go on the shaft after it's in the chassis (because of brg holder assembly sequence) so I can't weld it on the bench. Not sure what I'm going to do there.

Welding is semi-permanent but I'm not sure what else I can do to get this thing back moving without a significant investment. Any ideas?

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Snow Terror

· #21 · 13 d ago

Any way to weld a washer to the outside of the inner race such that when you put that bolt into the end of the shaft, it centers the bearing relative to the shaft. A couple holes drilled into the washer should allow enough to tack to the race?

(I'm not familiar with the assembly, so there may not be any room for an additional washer)

Otherwise, I'd go with your original plan of electric tape and trying to tack it to the shaft, or press off the drivers and take RR up on his offer

Edit: Looks like we were typing at the same time, and you may have it figured out

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Daag44

· #22 · 13 d ago

Red Rooster said:
Send me the shaft I'll turn it down for you. Ai t gonna snow until November

That is awesome of you to offer. What we do is many ways volunteer work. It is nice to help each other out!

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suv1

· #23 · 13 d ago (Edited)

LabradorBoy said:
The seal in the gearbox was 26/52/8 so the shaft OD should be 26mm at the gearbox spline end. I highly doubt that the driveaxle was upgraded on this one, it is stocker than stock and in a fellows shed for years. See if you can find one, I'll get you a pic when I'm back after the weekend. Replacement would be ideal over any machining, there should be dozens of these scrapped out there.

Both shafts should be interchangeable, only difference is the oil seal in the transmission, the 96 came with a smaller ID oil seal hole , the later ones 98 onwardsI believe had a slightly larger ID oil seal, the OD of both oilseals are the same, the spline is the same size on both, if i recall the orignal 96 the spline was a larger dia. than where the oilseal seats on the shaft, you had to expand the oilseal to get the spline in, the updated one the spline end was the same size as the oilseal or slightly larger??? there was a recall on those early ones because there was a tendency for the shaft end would snap off due to it's smaller size

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LabradorBoy

Discussion Starter · #24 · 10 d ago

Snow Terror said:
Any way to weld a washer to the outside of the inner race such that when you put that bolt into the end of the shaft, it centers the bearing relative to the shaft. A couple holes drilled into the washer should allow enough to tack to the race?

(I'm not familiar with the assembly, so there may not be any room for an additional washer)

Otherwise, I'd go with your original plan of electric tape and trying to tack it to the shaft, or press off the drivers and take RR up on his offer

Edit: Looks like we were typing at the same time, and you may have it figured out

Not a bad solution at all, but still a struggle to ensure that the thing is true. While gear reduced twice (clutches, then gearbox) that sucker still turns at 2000+ rpm when at 60-70km/h.

A couple of shafts have come out of the wood work and I'm going to try a local one tonight to see if that fits. Not cheap, but cheaper and much faster than some of the solutions I have possible. See how things go tonight.

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LabradorBoy

Discussion Starter · #25 · 10 d ago

suv1 said:
Both shafts should be interchangeable, only difference is the oil seal in the transmission, the 96 came with a smaller ID oil seal hole , the later ones 98 onwardsI believe had a slightly larger ID oil seal, the OD of both oilseals are the same, the spline is the same size on both, if i recall the orignal 96 the spline was a larger dia. than where the oilseal seats on the shaft, you had to expand the oilseal to get the spline in, the updated one the spline end was the same size as the oilseal or slightly larger??? there was a recall on those early ones because there was a tendency for the shaft end would snap off due to it's smaller size

I vaguely remember these updates, my 2000 Skandic WT 500F already had the larger shaft. Hopefully something will materialize locally here tonight, if not I'll be calling on your options.

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tommc56

· #26 · 8 d ago

suv1 said:
Did that before, the tape is just to center the bearing on the shaft, with everything locked in place it should be fine, personally i would have split a piece of copper tubing and pounded it in there, probably not worn enough for that though

I would consider brass sheet shim material, it’s flimsy but you should be able to preform to the diameter and epoxy to the shaft with some clamping force ?

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LabradorBoy

Discussion Starter · #27 · 8 d ago

tommc56 said:
I would consider brass sheet shim material, it’s flimsy but you should be able to preform to the diameter and epoxy to the shaft with some clamping force ?

All options. I managed to find myself a local shaft from a Skandic WT 600LC and I believe it will work; the driveaxle brg is the same and the splines fit in the output gear, I just need a 28 52 8 gearbox seal for the bigger shaft instead of the 2006's 26 52 8 seal. I needed a new seal anyway, so I was going to have to wait to receive parts regardless.

Hopefully I can get this thing back together and out of the way when the new seal arrives. Not looking forward to connecting that wonky shift joystick cable again LOL

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LabradorBoy

Discussion Starter · #28 · 1 d ago

Well, my new seal isn't here yet, but my good buddy showed up last night with a 28 52 7 seal from a V800 SWT that is the same P/N as I need. Going to have a look at this tonight and hopefully get this sucker back together. Shop has been completely taken over by this thing and she's gotta get outta there. See how it goes.

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