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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
at least you're narrowing it down. think about how much you didn't know what was wrong when you were starting. I had a shim/bushing piece that was missing in an old moto-ski clutch from 73, and the clutch would immediately chew a chunk out of the corner of the belt. when the clutch engaged, the belt was sitting too low to the axis of the clutch, and it would just take a 1/4 inch chunk out all the way around the belt. went through 3 or 4 belts before I finally figured it out …

actually, it was my neghbor, don't think I would have ever figure it out
I did, I really learn a lot, we only work on 2008 and up and when one our clients came out with this I said.. ok but I cheated see below
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Dumb question but is the bearing free to turn? The "wrong belt" that was on it - how was it compared to the one you have on? How is the alignment to the secondary- is it dragging sideways enough to catch - if you know what I am saying?

I was just looking at NOS clutch the same Powerblock Alt that you have, it is listed for many applications( needing correct spring/weights for each ofcourse). Interestingly it said " uses 1 1/4" belt".

I have put a couple of these on last year and used the OEM belt. I will have a look tomorrow at ones I have. I do seem to recall seeing one with quite a stack of shims beside the bearing so you may just need to add more. I will try to get you some info., pics and I think I have an instruction sheet.
No dumb ? yes the bearing is turning, the first belt was too wide, did the alignment ok. I did fix it but I cheated keep reading below
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Note that in the diagram in the link it shows a bushing instead of a bearing. I think earlier or certain models used a bearing, others just a bushing, I have seen both. As I said, I have seen several shims beside the bearing. I put a NOS one a single cylinder Sachs motor last year, it had the bearing with several shims beside it. Let me do some checking tomorrow, but as others said, it was just probably never set up properly for that sled and may just need more spacers to allow the belt to not drag.
I saw that (bearing and bushing) what I did to fix the problem is added a small washer at the end of the pulley where the nut to hold the pulley on the inside to pull the pulley out and voila, work like a charme... took all the shims out and added that washer inside. it push the pulley out so now it idles just to say it touched the belt a little. no more bogging and in idle pretty...I know that not what the books says but it works for me..
 

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The end of the shaft has a D shape to it so if you shim it there may not be much of the D locking into the cup
 

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I have a 69’ Nordic and 71’ TnT, both are on the same chassis and both use the Elan belt, Dayco 3001. I can’t remember the width but it’s narrower than most.
 

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c143fbca2703455d9f54c2e249b14a1f.jpg


This is the instructions from box. It sounds like you did exactly what they recommend as long as you don't have one with the flat interlocking shaft. Good job - sometimes we have to use our heads to figure out a problem and not rely on a forum or Youtube video or the great almighty Google.

Section 3 is what discusses adjusting for belt clearance at idle.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
c143fbca2703455d9f54c2e249b14a1f.jpg


This is the instructions from box. It sounds like you did exactly what they recommend as long as you don't have one with the flat interlocking shaft. Good job - sometimes we have to use our heads to figure out a problem and not rely on a forum or Youtube video or the great almighty Google.

Section 3 is what discusses adjusting for belt clearance at idle.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
yessir, thank you, yup your right sometime we need to use our head, but I found a lot of good help here and youtube. And sometime not so good, but we been doing this for a while but I never worked on a 1970 Sled, that's why I came here and it was very informative . Now I have to change the oil seal on the Secondary, spitting a bit of oil on the secondary from the chaincase, I think that is the problem

Thank you again for the info above, much appreciated
 

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Put it back in the chaincase with the the tensionner bolt to keep it in place and the try to wiggle the pulley out. Might not work if the bearings seat on the shaft are worn,it create a ridge that keep bearings in place.From the pic,bearing seems kinda burned,not sure tho. Take a 2x4 ,put it on the end of the shaft and hit with a hammer,might work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Put it back in the chaincase with the the tensionner bolt to keep it in place and the try to wiggle the pulley out. Might not work if the bearings seat on the shaft are worn,it create a ridge that keep bearings in place.From the pic,bearing seems kinda burned,not sure tho. Take a 2x4 ,put it on the end of the shaft and hit with a hammer,might work.
Thank you for your help. much appreciated, its coming out but slow lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Put it back in the chaincase with the the tensionner bolt to keep it in place and the try to wiggle the pulley out. Might not work if the bearings seat on the shaft are worn,it create a ridge that keep bearings in place.From the pic,bearing seems kinda burned,not sure tho. Take a 2x4 ,put it on the end of the shaft and hit with a hammer,might work
A update, finally got her out . wow what a a pain in the butt. yes you were right that bearing is to loose, burn out. thx again.
 
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