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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

I've been pondering and trying different things on the new xrs to get it how i want to (though im not really sure if it is needed with the new front end). Im looking for some help on what you guys have had work well so far for the season. Mine steers hard and does dart a bit on occasion still. I think i still have too much weight on the skis and too much carbide right now but want some input.

First the back story on changes and adjustments to this point-

rode with generic setup from dealer, they set everything in the middle for me. around the yard, it was really really good with just the stock 4" carbide in the middle. It did push a little bit so i wanted to get that addressed. setup was limiter strap 4 holes up, rear blocks on 3, quick adjust comp on 2.5, rebound on 7, fronts on 7 or 8 for compression, and same for rebound.

I put 6" stud boy shapers on the middle and some 4" shapers on the outside- started darting terrible

After this change, I was trying to crank up the center shock and adjusted the preload on the fronts as low as it would go- hitting the aluminum stopper ring. I did that on the trail since i was out riding it already anyway. I just wanted it to get better so i could put some miles on it.

The center shock tightening didnt help much as it was still doing it. So i went to maize's site and started to look at the skid adjustment and shocks as i have in the past.

I took the 4" shaper off the outside and added a stock replacement 4" bar outside. it is still square but fits up in the ski well unlike the shaper that sits down a ways.

Adjusted the skid, took 2 holes out of the limiter strap to get it flat front to back as it was set down on the floor. loosened up the center shock until it was completely loose then started going in until most of the darting went away. (have one more hole to go)

Measured front set in- 1 3/8" with the spring preload set as low as it will go. ( probably a big contributing factor to handling still at this point)

set toe out as close to 1/8" as i could with the help of my gf sitting on it and holding the bars straight. used a board off of the track on each side and measured out from there to the middle of the stud on the carbide the second time. i didnt have any ply wood to do it.

also at time of adjustments on skid i went to 5 clicks on compression on front shocks and center, 7 on the front rebound. Rear torsion compression set to 2 and rebound set on 5. I wanted to make it a bit more plush all around for smaller bumps on the trail.

As i was riding the next day, the trails were mostly 6" of powder so it was a bad judge of how the shocks will really act. I did get to ride some stuff that was groomed so not all hope is lost. It is quite a bit better as a result of setting it up more for how i want it but it will occasionally still walk side to side. I am planning to shim the skis tonight and see if that helps out at all this weekend. Im thinking it will, it should steer better and not do any darting but idk if i am going to far or not.

Now the questions- what are you guys running for setups?

Is 6" shaper not necessary with the new front end?

Can I go with a single 4" in the middle and 4" outside and have it turn easy and still bite on the trails with the right pressure on the skis?

anyone have any settings on shocks around that they like yet? compression and rebound settings?

shim skis or not?

Thanks guys, sorry about the book... just want to get all the info i can out there.

steve
 

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Actual carbide only matters on ICE, and black top. Otherwise the host bar (shaper, round, square) effects steering in snow and on hardhack. No studs?

I'd shim for sure. Every sled I've ever shimmed tracked perfectly straight unless in super hard frozen trails.

I'd start with shimming. Get it to track straight. I'm against tightening a limiter strap, but that's just me.

I also don't like running the rear coupler blocks up on 3 or 4.... It just sucks all the fun out of having such an aggressive sled and just makes it feel like someone is holding the front of my sled down.

Is your rear torsions soft enough? Try running more sag. My xrs snow flap touched the ground with me sitting on the sled after I'd bounce up and down and the sled was warmed up from riding several miles.

Gotta get these tall sleds to 'sit in' real nice to get them to corner. I do it with the springs soft, and stiffen the shocks up to prevent bottoming. I trail ride aggressive, I don't go looking for things to jump... Too soft for that.

My 2 cents
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info- since i have the QA i can adjust the torsion while sitting on the seat. I actually put it down to around 1.5 and it started to really be much better. im sure that i just got enough weight off of it finally to help and what got me thinking i am still too stiff for just general trail riding. im 220 without gear, and i have a full gas caddy on it all the time. pretty common for most it seems like.

i get about 8-10" of lift if i hammer it now with the blocks on 3. thats pretty much where i like it for jumping small stuff on the trail.

no studs, just the ice cobra nibs

I definitely want to get it to track straight, thats the main concern right now and the main reason for the questions. I am looking to see what people are having success with for setups.

anyone have some real world settings?

steve
 

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To get that 8-10" of ski lift is your rear shock compressing?

I know if my suspension is warm I can fully compress my rear shock while launching hard. Putting more low speed compression helps stop that, so then I can run my blocks on #1.

Just my experience. Of course riding style has a ton to do with what some think is a good set up, and others will hate it. My uncle runs his blocks on 4 and tightens his strap... Almost like he's deathly afraid of his skis coming up lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Huh, that is possible that the suspension is just compressing. especially when i have the torsion compression set down soft and the rebound set soft

would the blocks really make much of a difference on how a sled goes down the trail though? it isnt resting on the blocks while going straight is it? ill definitely try it, usually i like to avoid ski lift when i can for the most part.

steve
 

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Huh, that is possible that the suspension is just compressing. especially when i have the torsion compression set down soft and the rebound set soft

would the blocks really make much of a difference on how a sled goes down the trail though? it isnt resting on the blocks while going straight is it? ill definitely try it, usually i like to avoid ski lift when i can for the most part.

steve
I am running the same track, this is also contributing to the ski lift. I am 195 with out gear. I am right around 3 on qa. Rear compression at 8. Center shock is just able to move in retainer, compression at 10. Fronts I moved the ring and lowered my front by redunicng preload by 1/4" or so. I am running C&A's with 6" Bergstroms (they always reduce darting) I rode the other day on frozen crappy trails and it felt pretty good. Try to lower compression in the front and increase rebound. Shims always help. I have not ridden my sled since I lowered the front end. I did because it was not flat cornering as well as my X sled. Good luck.
 

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They make a pretty big difference. Once you shocks/oil is warmed up, when you sit on the sled, your blocks are most likely touching. Especially if you're accelerating in any way.

Lots of trial and error.

Try cranking up your low speed compression on the rear shock and accelerating. See what the difference is.

The xrs still had high/low speed compression adjustment doesn't it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the info guys, the left side QA is for the torsion spring only, i guess i thought it was compression as well. the right says it is for compression and rebound, i thought it was only for rebound. Does the 1 knob do both of the settings or is the screw able to be adjusted too? I thought my dealer told me i shouldnt mess with the flat head screwdriver one facing the rear.

i feel i should be about 2.5-3 on the left side for the torsion spring, i have the right side at 5 or 7 clicks from full soft.

im not getting much ski lift right now, with the rebound on the fronts at 7 or 8 and the compression at 5.

i adjusted the shocks while cold, but never try to tune them while cold. i do that while on the trails. i will keep an eye on the blocks and maybe go to 2 on them and see how it does.

anyone have stock skis on them?

steve
 

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I found last year that shapers make these sleds heavy steering, and darty on frozen/rutted trails.

A perfect example of the shapers downfall on XS chassis is this....

I along with many many people, added shapers and moved stockers to outside before ever riding my new sled last season. On a frozen/rutted trail morning i went to demo a new 900ace. The Ace had stock pilots with stock whimpy carbides, center.

I traded back and forth with the 900 vs my sled with shapers....long story short, the stock setup did not dart, twitch or feel heavy. It felt like power steering and went straight over all the crappy rutted tracks....while my shaper setup had my shoulder and arms wore out from darting back and forth so bad.

Long story short, DEEP carbides like shapers are GREAT for carving in powder, but in rutted trails they will dart like no other! There is ALWAYS a COMPROMISE when choosing runner/carbide/ski setups.

This year,I added RAS2, went post forward, and i'm trying stud boy 4.5'' deuce bars to stop the darting, will post all results. I will NEVER use shapers again on the XS/XP chassis, unless the new RAS2 is alot different. Shapers are simply far too heavy steering, and dart too bad. I loved them on every cat and yammie I owned but hate them in the DOO.

I wrote up alot of my testing last season, and still continue to try to achieve the best overall setup here:

GREAT THREAD ON DARTING/Shimming/Carbide/Suspension: http://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/757970-dartingtwitchynervous-etecsshapers-vs-snowtrackers/

Dan
 

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great thread there! I am really thinking about trying a regular 6" carbide in the middle that i can buy at fleet and farm tonight. hate to buy another set but it may be worth while. i dont ride deep powdery trails often, nor will i be riding them fast enough to need a deep carbide anyway.

i did the same thing, threw shapers on it just based off of past experience with my rev and 500ss. figured i would need to do it anyway so i might as well buy them and get them on for initial riding then tune from there.

i am really torn on what to do with them haha I like to run something on the outside just for protections sake, i ride right on the edge of the right side of the trail and hit small rocks and down sticks once in a while so the carbide helps save the ski. ill keep the small square bar 4" on the outside regardless i think.

the cross roads right now- shim with the pilots and try to tune with the shaper or buy another round bar 6" and put them in the middle and not shim them. the main trails i ride are always groomed at some point. not much in the way of deeper snow or powder laying on them.

I need help deciding- what would you guys do?

steve
 

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I'm not liking this thread LOL. I've never owned a doo until this year...read up on this site and decided to buy the shapers for up the middle with stock on outside....Now you've got me second guessing my decision.....I still don't have any miles on mine yet, so don't know how it will react.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Me neither honestly. i see all these threads about how great they are riding and heres mine.- terrible haha all over the trail and so sore after 90 miles on saturday that i might as well drive my rev. haha

just want to find out what is working for people. obviously my setup is not LOL

steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
They will if they are running a seemingly oem setup from a dealer and run some shapers on it. haha

steve
 

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The 2015 front end rocks, stock limiter strap settings, no shapers, and 1/16 to 1/8 toe out is perfect. To get an xrs to turn you just need to get the front end soft enough to get a little body roll and then add a lot of rebound on bottom clicker. If your shorten the limiter strap you loose most of the benefit of the rmotion and it does not fit well with the xtra front end travel of the pro 40's front end.
 

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What hole is your limiter strap on stock? Mine was 4 holes in. I'm at 2 holes in now. How about your shock clickers?

Thanks steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Also ended taking the shapers off, bought some 6" round bar carbides and put them on. I'll see how it goes today with that. Went to 5 clicks comp front, 8 rebound. 11 comp on the back right (I think) and went to 2.5 on the torsion. Haven't done center shock since it had ice packed around it last night.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Mine definitely wasn't, sounded like the dealer put it at 4 holes in but I'm not 100% sure.

Steve
 

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The 2015 front end rocks, stock limiter strap settings, no shapers, and 1/16 to 1/8 toe out is perfect. To get an xrs to turn you just need to get the front end soft enough to get a little body roll and then add a lot of rebound on bottom clicker. If your shorten the limiter strap you loose most of the benefit of the rmotion and it does not fit well with the xtra front end travel of the pro 40's front end.
"A lot of rebound" is which way on the bottom clicker--toward harder or softer?
 
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