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Have a 2015 renegade backcountry x 800 etec and everything is stock with 2000km about 1250mi. I have the brp prefilter kit on the front, no snow is getting inside. I always break in belts properly on trail nice and easy varying the throttle. So far this year it's been mostly easy trail riding because lack of snow. This weekend went to an area with 3-4 feet untouched snow mostly flat. Went driving in this snow and the belt lasted maybe 15 minutes. A few WOT pulls here and there when a wheelie is necessary but otherwise hovering around 6500-7200rpm just floating along.

Got the belt changed, but WOW I could have cooked an egg on the clutch, or pieces of belt. So hot that I almost burned my hand. Later on that day with the spare installed did some trail riding avg speed about 60 - 80km/h and stopped for a break. Hot clutches again. Not as hot as the first time but you couldn't keep your hand on it.

A friend suggested the slp air elimination kit but I'm not sure what to do. I am not hard on this machine but I feel that I should be able to drive this thing in the snow without having to worry. Any suggestions?

EDIT: So you don't have to read through all pages. QRS tech link, 21/45 gearing, summit 3mm flange was tried still having problems. Then brp closed the case.

Here's the final update, wish it was better news. Turns out that the springs for the clutch were not approved by brp. Their statement was something to the effect of "No further assistance will be granted on this case" They have since closed my file. The dealer has been great throughout and told the rep that I am still having the problem. Again they gave the blanket statement of no further assistance. The rep even told the dealer that I bought the wrong sled for breaking trail... yeah, if you say so... I won't even get into that.

I was of the opinion that these issues should be taken care of by brp, through warranty. I had this problem since new. I went about it the proper way, opened a case with the dealer, brought it there multiple times, and the case was closed. So can someone remind me of what that 3 year bumper to bumper warranty is really for?

I get it, there are aftermarket parts that can address issues. But most, like me with this type of sled aren't in the mountains doing extreme climbs in bottomless powder. This sled should work, and work as it was advertised.

Very disappointed.
 

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My 12 the clutches are extremely hot and it wears out belts quick, same with the other newer doos I ride with, from what I see on here it is a very common issue with the 800. Apparently brp leaves it up to the consumer to drill a bunch of vent holes or add fans to fix the heat problems. If I was you I would have dealer check alignment , clutches, engine stopper and belt deflection when they tell you that's all within spec then bring it home and proceed to drill holes everywhere in the panel. Don't forget to pick up a few extra 200 dollar belts while your at the dealer hate to say it but your probably going to need them. These belt threads are getting more common than the oil or can threads. If you need ideas on how to trash your new sled wit a drill bit or hole saw just search there a tons of how to threads. Not trying to hate on doo all Ive ever owned is doo my 800 ptec Had over 5000 miles when I got rid of it only ever changed the belt once and that was just because I had never changed it not because it came apart. There was recently a post that made me think, the guy said something about he has more money into belts than fuel for his sled and after thinking about it I realized I was darn close.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks I'll be making an appointment this week with the dealer. I could see how 200 dollars a pop could add up quick. To me it's a little ridiculous to think the "backcountry" cant really drive in the backcountry! for long anyways. lol I thought this thing would be good to go out of the box but I guess not! Don't get me wrong I'm not bashing, it's more than capable.

I'd like to hear some more of what others have done to fix these problems
 

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Belt alignment and belt deflection.....a must check every 250 miles!
 

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I could be way off and you could be one of the many that don't have belt issues, maybe just had a bad belt. I can play in the powder riding it hard for 2 to 3 days on a belt. Yours blowing right away was probably afluke. My machine unfortunately started eating belts around the same time I quit riding trails and headed to the backcountry. Some guys say gearing, clutch kits, venting helps. I just dont think it's right I have to modify my sled to make a belt last a full week playing in the u.p.
It may not sound like it but I do love my bcx best sled I have ever owned I beat the snot out of it feed it all kinds of nasty backwoods fuel and it just keeps taking it.
 

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I'm in the same place with my 14 backcountry it was eating belts on the inside that I shimmed it is starting eating belts on the outside. I'm down to one shim in there and see how that works out.
Do you have any vibration in the foot wells or the bars


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the responses guys. I'm starting to lean towards alignment. This might explain the belt dust and the clutches being hot while just trail riding.

Snowx the machine does vibrate quite a bit. The handlebars shake at idle. I just chalked this up to being an 800. Haven't really payed attention to the footwell a but it probably does. On a side note to that it looks like my primary wobbles a bit if you look at the Center bolt.

Doozer it's possible being a crap belt but I think something else is wrong.

The sled went to the dealer this morning for the issues mentioned here along with revving to 8300 and a coolant leak! Just as we are getting into good riding season. I will keep you all updated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the responses guys. I'm starting to lean towards alignment. This might explain the belt dust and the clutches being hot while just trail riding.

Snowx the machine does vibrate quite a bit. The handlebars shake at idle. I just chalked this up to being an 800. Haven't really payed attention to the footwell a but it probably does. On a side note to that it looks like my primary wobbles a bit if you look at the Center bolt.

Doozer it's possible being a crap belt but I think something else is wrong.

The sled went to the dealer this morning for the issues mentioned here along with revving to 8300 and a coolant leak! Just as we are getting into good riding season. I will keep you all updated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Heard back from the dealer today. They said that the spare belt I put on had a flat spot in it and there was so much belt dust that the primary wasn't working properly. They checked the alignment and said it was fine. As for the hot clutches they said that was due to all the belt dust. They did suggest I get the brace because other guys have been having problems with blowing belts.

Funny thing is that I don't drive the crap out of it and I don't engage/disengage the clutch all the time. I just drive. All of the belt dust is making me think something is out of whack because it happened since brand new.

So they cleaned up the clutches and it should be ready for pickup tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I've never done that. Guess I thought it could compress the dirt/grime into places that it shouldn't be. It was never a problem with my old cat. Maybe I should start though.
 

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I installed a 21 tooth top gear in my freeride after experiencing hot primary. Blowing belts like a b-turd.Clutch runs waaaay cooler now. I did the same ,took to dealer alignment all good bla bla. It's weird...my bcx 600 that my son rides,he will lay down a compete beating on his clutches,trenching thru pow wfo. Pull his clutch cover off and primary is warm to the touch.his has stock clutch/gearing.
Hope u get it fixed dude cuz these belts are pricey. Last year I spent 800 bucks on frighten belts pi$$ed me right off
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I installed a 21 tooth top gear in my freeride after experiencing hot primary. Blowing belts like a b-turd.Clutch runs waaaay cooler now. I did the same ,took to dealer alignment all good bla bla. It's weird...my bcx 600 that my son rides,he will lay down a compete beating on his clutches,trenching thru pow wfo. Pull his clutch cover off and primary is warm to the touch.his has stock clutch/gearing.
Hope u get it fixed dude cuz these belts are pricey. Last year I spent 800 bucks on frighten belts "edit for bad language" me right off
Funny you mention that about your sons sled. My wife has a 600 polaris assault and when mine went down for the weekend with a coolant leak I rode hers in the same conditions but probably pushed it a bit harder. Clutches were barely warm. The secondary on that sled floats not sure what the gearing is and there was zero belt dust at the end of the day. Going to pick up the sled today and talk to them a little more about it.
 

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For guys with the new clutch guard, if your left footwell gets plugged with snow it turns the clutch area into an oven.

May be a factor in some conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Picked up the sled today they said alignment was off due to all of the belt dust in the primary not letting it open or close fully. They said after they cleaned it alignment was good afterwards and the engine stopper was good. I got the brace installed also. I will do one thing at a time and report back on the results.

My left footwell gets plugged all the time in deeper stuff or making tight turns when really laying the sled over I will keep an eye on that.

BDSankey what was your issue to make you get the brp floating secondary?
 

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Gearing is the only thing that's going to save your belts when you run hard in deep snow and start to overheat them.

http://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/728937-2014-freeride-137-blowing-belts/?p=11607761

http://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/728937-2014-freeride-137-blowing-belts/?p=10364698

http://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/728937-2014-freeride-137-blowing-belts/?p=10746441

If you are going to ride deep snow then remove the 23 top gear and install a 21 top gear. you'll still get around (91mph) 146kmh with a 21 but it will be better on your belt when you do a lot of full throttle usage.

Its not breakin - its your running to the point of heating the belt up more...and more...and more and not giving the belt a break. When you gear down it lowers the torque on the belt and gets the belt speed up and convert more horsepower to the track instead of converting hp to heat because the belt speed is not fast enough for the paces you are running in...in the pow pow.

And im sorry to say, people only learn the hard way - i've done so much work studying, tuning and data-mining on making the connection to why belts blow, but people dont want to change the gears to work sufficiently for the load they put the sled through.

Engine vibration - Remove your primary clutch and check the phase / timing marks on it. It is not uncommon for the governor cup to slip in degrees about the equivalent from 12:00 to 1:00 and also the primary clutch if not re-torqued after a remount, the primary too can slip on the crankshaft the equivalent of 12:00 to 1:00. My primary clutch does this about every 2 tanks of gas, I pop it off the engine clutch and the timing mark on the crankshaft is counter clockwise forward to 11:00 vs the primary timing mark at 12:00.
 
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