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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I don't think I am understanding the manual's clutch alignment procedure. The manual shows the alignment bar touching the inside primary sheave. My picture shows a straight 3/8" rod that I pinched in the 2ndry. It clearly is not close to the inside sheave of the primary.

Should my rod NOT be pinched in the 2ndry? And I should just set it in the fully closed 2ndry and push it to the inside sheave of the primary to measure?
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You are doing it right, so hopefully I won't be complicating things with the following explanation. The reference is Fixed Secondary to Fixed Primary. For this reason the side of the bar that sits against the Fixed Secondary becomes the reference to measure the distance to the Fixed Primary.

Since only one side of the bar serves as the reference, the thickness of the bar is irrelevant. Having said this, look back to your picture and image as the bar grows thicker it will get closer to the Fixed Primary just like the Shop Manual diagram. The OEM alignment bar will never be thick enough to fill the void as what is depicted in the diagram, because if it did then it would bend the bar and skew the measurements. Hopefully this explains a little more how the diagram is not a perfectly accurate representation, but close enough to show how to take the measurement. In other words it could have been done better.

The key to the alignment is the Skew (Y-X) which is the engine position, and the X which is set by the shims behind the Secondary. The next step is to align the clutches in both axis which hasn't yet been done on anything other than the G4 with the pDrive, but it can be done nonetheless on our older sleds.

Note that I didn't cover the Z because that is the last thing I care about on a sled unless I am going for high performance.
 

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What you have is correct, the bar should not touch the primary sheave. Is that round stock? If so that may be a little flimsy to get good measurements,
 

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You might have noticed the shop manual calls for a Skew (Y-X) of 1.23mm. This amount of Skew that is necessary depends on the amount of engine movement under load. The amount of movement depends in part by the condition of the engine mount and the clearance to the Torque Stop. Ideally the Torque Stop allows for enough engine movement to share the load across all engine mounts, while limiting engine movement that would otherwise let the engine to reach too far out of alignment. Personally I prefer 3mm of Skew.

The manual also call for a 37mm Offset (X). The amount of Offset depends mostly on how far the engine moves out under load. The further it moves out, the greater the Offset is needed to keep the belt properly aligned between the two clutches. It also depends on the average position of the belt in the clutches. So if you think that you can reach better alignment than spec, then you would be correct since the spec serves as a reference to work from. 37-40mm is the Offset that I normally work with and this saves me from getting into floating the secondary which I don't like. There are a few of us on the REV forum that prefer not floating our secondary.

The Secondary fixed sheave can be out of alignment which causes further problems to set the alignment. The workaround for this is to take two measurements, the second with the Secondary turned 180 deg.
 

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The fixed clutch faces are highlighted in blue.

Measurements x and y are taken from the non movable clutch edge to the side of the bar that is against the secondary fixed face. This makes for a good reference.

The thickness of the bar will determine how far towards the throttle bodies the secondary movable sheeth moves.

There's a lot happening with these measurements that may not be fully explained in the manual.

Take into account twisted 12 year old sleds, worn motor mounts and many other variables..........

I'd like know the thickness of the oem tool, just for my own curiousity.

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They want the difference of Y and X. Y should be the larger measurement by 1.23mm.

When there is heavy load on the engine, the primary will be pulled towards the secondary reducing the Y measurement. That's why they want the static measurement of Y of 1.23 mm larger. I think, and this is my opinion, that 1.23 mm is optimistic at best. I'm betting there is more movement than that.

Distance X can be changed by adding or removing shims between the secondary and the jackshaft bearing. To achieve the 37mm.

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Then they want the gap to be 27.5 mm between the two clutches.

Use your calipers and find a socket with that diameter. Use that as a measurement gauge.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
how many shims are behind the torque converter? are you blowing belts? have you ck'd the motor mounts?JJR
I have 1 shim behind the 2ndry. I am not blowing belts, but noticed some belt threads on my pod filters and wanted to check, but only made myself confused when looking at my manual

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Distance X can be changed by adding or removing shims between the secondary and the jackshaft bearing. To achieve the 37mm.

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motor mounts are ok? is the shim a thick one ? you may remove and ck it again . hope this helps JJR
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
motor mounts are ok? is the shim a thick one ? you may remove and ck it again . hope this helps JJR
Mounts seem fine. Just put motor back in after changing oil pump seal. There is only 1 shim not sure if it is a thick one since I did not measure it nor do I have any to compare to.

I suppose I need the Doo tool to measure accurately.

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Just float the secondary and be done with it
 
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Sometimes the clips that hold the helux in place wears so the cup behind the torque converter put the bolt in see if alignment changes. Hope this helps JJR
 

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Distance X can be changed by adding or removing shims between the secondary and the jackshaft bearing. To achieve the 37mm.

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I put a doodoctor floating secondary kit on my 1000, back in 2007 and never blew or frayed another belt. 10K plus on it now. Before that, well..........
 

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That's what I was eluding to about the thickness of the bar. Take a look at this photo. The left side of the bar is the place where the 37mm is measured. This is inaccurate at best. A thinner bar, a thicker bar riding higher or lower on the angled stationary face can change the "37mm" wildly. I'm with you on floating the secondary.
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That's what I was eluding to about the thickness of the bar. Take a look at this photo. The left side of the bar is the place where the 37mm is measured. This is inaccurate at best. A thinner bar, a thicker bar riding higher or lower on the angled stationary face can change the "37mm" wildly. I'm with you on floating the secondary.

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I wonder if you clamp the bar to the outer face of the Secondary fixed sheave and take a measurement to the Primary fixed sheave. Doing the same on the upper and lower half I think you could get a good picture of both axis.
 
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