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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey All,

Having quite the issue figuring out a no spark issue. A little background first. I bought the sled used cheap a few weeks ago. The guy told me that he had recently replaced a crank bearing and the sled had less than 20 miles on the new crank bearing. I have a hard time believing that he made it 20 miles on the new crank bearing because the trigger coils were on backwards. I thought I might have an easy time getting this thing going. I pulled the motor, switched the trigger coils, switched the red/blue and black wire to the voltage regulator (because they were also backwards), put everything back together and still no spark. Things I've tried and tested so far:

Stator continuity test - Good

Trigger coil ohms - Good

Trigger coils cranking - Both had voltage, one a little low

Checked red/blue wire behind chain case - No Issues

Replaced coil (tested out bad, broken clip inside boot)

Tried another ECM/DESS Key

Swapped relays around with new relay - no change

I am at a loss with this sled. I have good fuel, but no spark at all. I did have dash lights during cranking at one time, but I have no lights during cranking now. I read on here that some people could not start the sled without a battery installed, so I installed the battery and still no spark while cranking. I'd really appreciate any advice that I can get to get this thing going!
 

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Check the the Red/Blue wire on the BUDS communication connector for cranking voltage. That wire is fed current straight from the VRR. If the voltage isn't high enough like 5Vdc then it won't wake the ECM.

You can actually feed the ECM and Gauge Cluster from the battery positive to the Red/Blue wire on the BUDS communication connector. Once they are awake you can give it a pull to see if it fires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Daag, I will give that a try tonight after dinner and report back. I did test the red/blue at the BUDS connector when cranking and had 2-3 volts, but that was before I lost dash lights during cranking. If I get dash power when jumping red/blue to battery positive, is that a good indication that ECM is fine? I do have another VRR to try out if this one seems like it is an issue. I also have a spare set of trigger coils, but am hoping it is something other than them because I don't really want to pull the motor again. Lol.
 

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Thanks Daag, I will give that a try tonight after dinner and report back. I did test the red/blue at the BUDS connector when cranking and had 2-3 volts, but that was before I lost dash lights during cranking. If I get dash power when jumping red/blue to battery positive, is that a good indication that ECM is fine? I do have another VRR to try out if this one seems like it is an issue. I also have a spare set of trigger coils, but am hoping it is something other than them because I don't really want to pull the motor again. Lol.
Worst case if it is the trigger coils you shouldn't have to pull the engine. I did my stator with the engine still in, the hardest part was routing the wires.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Worst case if it is the trigger coils you shouldn't have to pull the engine. I did my stator with the engine still in, the hardest part was routing the wires.

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I think that if I did trigger coils, I'd probably do a stator also just as a bit of preventative maintenance. I've been reading up on this issue and working on it for a couple weeks now and it seems like a lot of people have had stator issues in the past though. I can't imagine wire routing with the motor in, I had a hard time working on anything on the lower half of the engine with it in the sled. My hands don't fit between the bulkhead and the block! Lol

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Check the the Red/Blue wire on the BUDS communication connector for cranking voltage. That wire is fed current straight from the VRR. If the voltage isn't high enough like 5Vdc then it won't wake the ECM.

You can actually feed the ECM and Gauge Cluster from the battery positive to the Red/Blue wire on the BUDS communication connector. Once they are awake you can give it a pull to see if it fires.
Ok, so I gave this a try and had no power to the gauge cluster when installing a jumper wire from the red/blue at diagnostic port and battery positive. Tested battery and I had 12.5 volts there, so not a dead battery issue. I also tested this with two different ECM's installed in the machine. Not sure what else to try here, hopefully I don't have two bad ECM's...
 

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Ok, so I gave this a try and had no power to the gauge cluster when installing a jumper wire from the red/blue at diagnostic port and battery positive. Tested battery and I had 12.5 volts there, so not a dead battery issue. I also tested this with two different ECM's installed in the machine. Not sure what else to try here, hopefully I don't have two bad ECM's...
Did you try pull starting the engine?
 

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Try unplugging and plug that plug that’s for the stator. It’s kind of hard to get at it’s got a blue triple lip rubber seal. I had issues with the plug staying connected
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Try unplugging and plug that plug that's for the stator. It's kind of hard to get at it's got a blue triple lip rubber seal. I had issues with the plug staying connected
Appreciate the tip! I'll give that a try tomorrow and see what happens. I also have a spare voltage regulator I can try out of that doesn't work.

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok guys, so I had some time to mess with this thing this afternoon. I did as curt suggested and removed and plugged in the VRR plug. It must have backed off a little because now I have lights during cranking. Still no spark. I then went back to what Dagg was saying and jumped red/blue at comm port to battery positive and gauges came up. Gauge is telling me "Engine Overheat" and bars on temp gauge are all the way at hot. Tried unplugging the temp sensor with no change. It is also telling me "Low Oil" but that's because there is only a 1/4 tank of oil in it right now. Any other thoughts on what to try next? Will it cause a no spark condition if ECM is reading that the machine is over temp?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yep, checked those. They have been repaired by someone else, but I have continuity between the coil and ecm plug. I have an appointment this afternoon for someone to put it on their scanner to see if we can get it to spark. That's the only think I can think to check after testing everything else. This sled has me losing my mind... Lol

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Thanks Daag, I will give that a try tonight after dinner and report back. I did test the red/blue at the BUDS connector when cranking and had 2-3 volts, but that was before I lost dash lights during cranking. If I get dash power when jumping red/blue to battery positive, is that a good indication that ECM is fine? I do have another VRR to try out if this one seems like it is an issue. I also have a spare set of trigger coils, but am hoping it is something other than them because I don't really want to pull the motor again. Lol.
If you focus on drawing more voltage from the VRR then I believe you will get spark. Remove the 20A fuse, the one with the Red/Orange wire. This should get you spark. Then you will need to inspect the VRR terminals for good connection. Last you will need to measure the voltage out of each phase of the stator on the Yellow wires.
 
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