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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm hoping someone can help me figure out my charging issue.

Here's some history, A couple weeks ago we took the boys sled off the the trailer, took the battery off the shelf and charged it put it in and the sled ran fine but after a couple days he need to recharge the battery everyday/ everyother day. We bought a new battery, charged it and reinstalled it. Since then the engine cuts out, bogs down or backfires occasionally and will shut off.

A pull or two later it fires right back up. Last night it quit again, restarted and put it in the garage and hooked the charger to it and pushed the rer/start button and the battery light started flashing and it beeped constantly. I pulled the battery and had him charge it for 45-60 min this morning, pushed it outside and it fired on the 2nd pull and let it run for 5 min. and shut it off.

He went to start it after a few min and after pushing the rer/ start button the battery light flashes and it beeps constant again.Where should I start looking? Votage regulator, stator, relays? Thanks for any help in advance.
 

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I purchased an 07 renegade 600 sdi a few weeks ago and had similar issues. Engine would cut out under throttle,and headlights would occasionally flicker. I bought a new battery (e-start model)and it ran fine for about an hour, then the battery light would flash when revving over 2500k.Did a lot of research and determined(guessed)it was the stator from all the research I did on this site. Well after replacing the stator nothing changed.I checked voltage at the battery, and it wasn't charging. I replaced the voltage regulator and it works as it should.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here's some more info, Got home from work and checked the battery before installation it was on the charger about 5 hours earlier 13.25 volts.

Put it in and did the RER/start button to activate the fuel pump,voltage dropped to 12.7 and came back up to 13.07, Started the sled and @idle was reading 14.22. Kid took it for a few hundred yard ride, hit a small jump turned around and 50 yards later it quit running. One pull and it fired right back up and it was reading @ 14.55 volts. Any thoughts?
 

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Have you replaced relays and your saying hit a jump and that effected it. Sdi won't run right without 12.7 maybe a loose ground or fuse above battery ect
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I dont think the jump did affected it it just happened 50 to 75 yards later, I haven't replaced anything yet. Should I be replacing the relays?
 

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How are you guys getting such high voltage out of the batteries??? 62doo was getting 13.01 and you got 13.07 after priming the pumps. I never got that high with my Yuasa or Motocross/Yuasa batteries. The VR is so darn sensitive to the battery internal resistance it's nuts. I'm going to end-up finding a new VR that will fit the bill for the SDI. I just need to get it done professionally by someone in the industry of power sports.

Voltage looks good by the way. 0.37 Vdc drop to prime the pump is great. I didn't rely on the 13.25 Vdc because it was probably too soon after a full charge.

'Quitting shortly after a small jump sounds like a loose connection like Gordo427 said. To add to the things he said the check, I would replace the 30A fuse and inspect the terminals in the socket carefully. The terminals are of the highest quality female spade connectors, but if there is corrosion they will be jumpy....... You can remove them from the socket quite easily by depressing the locking tab on the terminal with a small blade screwdriver.

The run relay should also be replaced. Then I would head over to the VR and check the two large Deutsch connectors to make sure they are fully seated. While you're there might as well unplug each connector and inspect for burning marks and all the wires leading into the connectors. It's easy to tell when the connectors are burnt. The wires typically heat/burn near the connector.

Also check for the black chassis ground that is bolted to the frame. Lots more that can be checked, but that's a good start.
 

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Dang, just noticed three 1K owners on the same topic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for all the help and info. I'll be getting in to it after work today.

By the way Daag my mach went away late last season after another meltdown. I'm looking forward to my first ride on my new to me 1200 this w/end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Can anyone tell me the part # for the votalge regulator, I think I'm going to get one from the salvage yard.
 

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Sorry to hear. Those sleds don't last long by only relocating the low pressure pump and giving them pod filters. When not setup right they blow belts, run too hot, drink coolant, run low on oil, too high on compression, have fuel problems, run too long on protection modes that lowers the fuel to oil ratio, then melt pistons and blow cranks. They have the same problems as the 800s, but when setup right they are more reliable. That's why many of us have an air/fuel gauge on them (Click), make sure injectors haven't clogged from contaminants, monitor EGTs and own a computer to troubleshoot. The great majority of them die on their first ride when taken out of storage. Pre-season is everything on those sleds. Folks are extra careful and run them where they think it's safe for the first ride where it happens to be the most precarious range. They hardly ever die wide open. The 600SDI and 800 SDI have the same problems, but the 600 SDI has much more tolerance before detonation sets in. Everything you learned on that sled still applied with the 600.
 

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For the VR, just say SDI and they will know. It's the same VR across all SDI engines.
 

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By the way I don't believe it is the VR. The things I mentioned are all things I've seen repeatedly. It still could be VR, but I think the chances are low given the great voltage your getting.
 

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I really did like the RT chassis, it fit me well.I did do most of what you said but in the end I was always worried about it going down while on a long trip, which it did last year. Funny you should you say they rarely die wide open, that's when my first one puked :) last years was @ about 25mph and that's why I switche dto a 4 stroke. By the way is it the NApa AR 143 relay that I need for the 600?
 

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I wouldn't rule out oxidized kill switch contacts.
Mine gave me fits until I pulled it apart & cleaned the green stuff off the copper contacts.
 

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It burned down once at wot and another time at 25 mph?
 
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