Check fuel pressure and fuel flow from the injectors, and voltage at the battery. These are three easy things to rule out. Other problems will take further effort.

 

Here is a short list:

- Fuel Pressure?

- Fuel flow?

- Reeds: OEM or aftermarket?

- Exhaust: OEM or aftermarket?

- Air Intake (airbox): OEM or aftermarket/pods?

- Idle rpm?

- Voltage at the battery on idle?

- Calibration? (see your BUDS report for the part#)

- Air/Fuel ratio at idle and below 4000 rpm?

Not meaning to make things complicated, but the stock tune was designed with stock components and a well running engine. Any change to the components can change the intended tune.

 

Daag, what do you mean by calibration and can I see this using the candoo?

 

Answers are below.

Here is a short list:

- Fuel Pressure? Unknown
- Fuel flow? Unknown
- Reeds: OEM or aftermarket? VForce
- Exhaust: OEM or aftermarket? OEM
- Air Intake (airbox): OEM or aftermarket/pods? OEM
- Idle rpm? 1800
- Voltage at the battery on idle? Unknown
- Calibration? (see your BUDS report for the part#) no clue what this means. Not given BUDS report.
- Air/Fuel ratio at idle and below 4000 rpm? No clue.

Not meaning to make things complicated, but the stock tune was designed with stock components and a well running engine. Any change to the components can change the intended tune.

 

Thanks for the answers. There are a lot of unknowns that would take a great deal of effort from an expert tuner at $200/hour to work out.

 

The coil and plug wires have arrived. I'll try and get some time to swap them out and see what happens.

 

Tonight I pulled it off the trailer, and into the garage. Haven't touched the coils, but it is running better, fewer backfires and it was idling great. No time to do any work tonight.

 

Another thing to check is the tps plug wires. Sometimes they will rub through the insulation and start shorting the tps. It's the male end that plugs into the tps.

 

Swapped out the coil and plug wires today, no change. I have an inline spark tester, maybe I'll hook that up next and just see if is dropping the spark.

TPS wires are fine.

 

Change out that R-1 relay.

 

Change out that R-1 relay.

Can this be replaced with a Napa relay, or do I need to order one from BRP?

 

napa relay or any other is fine

 

napa relay or any other is fine

Thank you.

 

Swapped out the coil and plug wires today, no change. I have an inline spark tester, maybe I'll hook that up next and just see if is dropping the spark.

TPS wires are fine.

Great idea on swap and the spark test!!! The advantage of old sleds is having affordable replacement parts

There is also nothing wrong with using an alternate plug to shorten the gap. Don't tell anyone, but I break the NGK rules and regap the ECS plugs to 25 thou. It really isn't a great idea to doo this on an ECS plug, but I also know that most people won't go out to buy difference plugs just to try this simple change.

In any case, you should be aware that the calibration for the 04 SDI is in its own play park with backfires. While it has an interesting calibration for power like a gazelle on steroids, everything need to work well for it to avoid engine failure. Low fuel pressure or partially clogged injectors or a TPS problem or a twisted in-tank fuel line are not acceptable for a 2004 calibration.

There is also a factual and BRP documented midrange that can cause a lean failure or even detonation. So if you lend your sled out to someone and tell them to ride with a conservative throttle, you may in fact be spelling out a disaster recipe for your sled and you will be the only person to blame because you have been worn

If you make sure everything is in order, then it will be a fun season. Otherwise it can turn into chasing after ghosts.

 

I don't lend my sled.

I plan to pull the injectors and get them cleaned and tested at a local shop. Interestingly, if I run normal plugs, they foul. I have been running NGK Iridium plugs and have had no issues with them. I did adjust the oil pump a touch as it was over oiling by a mm or so.

 

try changing voltage regulator

 

If you have the oil pump on spec, be certain the ECM never thinks there is cause for concern and dumps fuel at the problem. Otherwise the oil supply can easily be cut in half when it actually needs it the most. Thank god for the electronic oil pump on the ETEC.

 

try changing voltage regulator

That's on my list of things to do, but further down the list as I don't have access to another to swap out. I'd have to buy one.

 

I would try adding a return spring to the oil pump they are know to stick and try br9ecs-5 plug with the shorter gap

 

What does your sled idle at turning up the idle speed can resolve some low speed running issues

 

When I had it at the shop, they lowered the idle from 2000 to 1800, and it idles better now. I adjusted the oil cable, it was over oiling, by about a mm.

Today I swapped the relays, no change. Hooked up an in line spark tester and it looked fine, consistent. Next I think I will remove the injectors and clean them.

 

check if the pump is returning they are know to stick a soft spring will help I think I would try some seafoam or other good injector cleaner in the gas first I add the seafoam run then add some fresh gas

 

Try fill up the gas tank and see if its related to one of the fuel pick ups not lay in the tank correct

 

check if the pump is returning they are know to stick a soft spring will help I think I would try some seafoam or other good injector cleaner in the gas first I add the seafoam run then add some fresh gas

Try fill up the gas tank and see if its related to one of the fuel pick ups not lay in the tank correct

Pump has been checked. Already running Seafoam and fresh gas. and the pickups in the tank were relocated last year as they were not correct. They are now.

 

Been following your thread Smurfy, after watching your video, was that shot @ cold start up or warmed up ? Sound's like it was running out or starving for fuel before you hit the throttle, I think having your injector's checked is your next move and the best thing to do, Maybe that's your issue a bad injector.

Edit- Listened to your video 3 or 4 times now, every time i watch it especially near the end when you give it throttle sound's like it's starving for fuel