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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Still struggling here. Sled has been flawless up until now. 5000miles. Replaced rings now have 155psi compression on both sides. Had 130/110 before. Thought that was causing the bog, no.. Part throttle between 5-6000 rpm bogs, feels like running on one cylinder, then after that runs great. Top end is good. Clutches are good. Injectors? Fuel pump? Any suggestions? Dealer says no error codes in computer.
 

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Try a new spring in your secondary. Here are 2 posts from when I had the bogging issue:

Hey guys, here's something to consider/try:

My sled, in 2500 miles, never had a bog issue, never. This season I decided to gear it down 2 teeth. For the first few hundred miles the jury was out to whether this was a good idea or not. I even picked up the dreaded bog. Hmmm. Then I started to pay attention to when, where, and why it was bogging. All of the symptoms were just as you guys are saying - great on the hardpack, bogging in the rough stuff. I finally figured out it was shifting out too early and overloading the engine.

I took the secondary off and (thanks to a lot of good reading and education from Dynamo^Joe ) decided to put in the purple secondary spring. All I can say is WOW. Sleds pulls hard and the bog is 100% gone, as it was before.

For me, it was a lot easier to figure out then for you guys. I had a great baseline to work with and KNEW my sled was bog free. Then it started, but why? The only thing that had changed was the gearing/clutching, and I had done that. Sure enough, that was the issue. For you guys, it could be the secondary spring is getting weak and out of spec, or maybe it was just lazy to begin with. For under $50.00 why not try another spring. For me, even without the bog issue, the stiffer spring is worth it because of how much better the sled acts. TRY IT!

I think the reason so may of these dealers are shooting in the dark is the bogs are inconsistant, as you guys know. There really is nothing wrong with the sled mechanically, and it's about impossible for a dealer to reproduce the condition - actually there is no way for them to reproduce it in the shop - it must be ridden. Tough issue for these guys.

and

I experienced the same problem out west with my 05 600 Renegade X. I talked to my dealer numerous times thinking it was a fuel starvation problem. Last week he
said he talked to a tech at BRP and they acknowledged the problem and said it is not a fuel starvation issue, but more of a flooding issue. A computer update is in the works to correct the problem. Here's hoping!
This kind of lends merit to the engine loading issue as well - and it doesn't take much. In my case, the final info I needed went like this: I run my track loose, maybe too loose. The sled was working great. I hit a bump and the track slipped. Just as soon as I landed the sled bogged something terrible. I let off the throttle, feathered it a bit until it picked itself back up and all was fine. My assumption was (and sure looks like it was correct) was since there was briefly no load on the driveline (in the air after the bump) the clutch was able to shift out too far/too easy, kind of like sitting on a jack stand. In the next brief moment, you've landed, and a great load is now placed back on the driveline. As fast as the computer is, the sled/load/clutching/computer/fuel pump/injectors/ignition timing/knock sensor/rev limiter/etc... (you get the idea) got out of sync. The heavier spring helps keep the load on the engine by not shifting out as fast for the brief second the load is gone/reduced. There is also an added benefit of way better backshifting and pull - plus my bog is now 100% gone - as it was before I started messing with it.

Try it, I'd be interested in seeing if it cures your ills as well.

The whole post can be found here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks but I don't think it's clutching. Changed both springs out with new stock springs. I can produce the problem even on the stand. The only time it doesn't do it is if I take the belt off so it seems related to load. After it gets over 6000rpm it rips and has. As I mentioned sounds and feels like running on 1 cylinder then cleans up. I'm down to spark? Fuel injectors? Fuel pump? I can't belive its the fuel pump or injectors because I would think that would be worse at full throttle not better.

Any other suggestions would be great!
 

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doome2x said:
One more thing.....I don't get the 2 Beeps after starting the sled. Where is the "beeper located"?
[snapback]700363[/snapback]​
Right above the exhaust cannister
 

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Check the airbox - mine came loose this past weekend and lost much power - worth the check.

Scooby
 

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I had the same exact problem starting to develop on my 2004 600sdi. It started before i replaced the rings and pistons at 4000 miles. Once i got the sled back from the dealer it ran worse then it did before i took it in for the rings. It bogged from engagement to 6000 rpm and then would hit right to 7000rpm. Took it back to the dealer and they ran it on the computer and couldn't find anything. They changed the TPS and it did not fix anything. They checked the fuel pump and the injectors and found nothing. Took the throttle bodies apart and found nothing. Disconnected all the electrical connections and re connected them and still couldn't find the problem. The tech people at skidoo were puzzled as well. I ended up taking it to the dealer 4 times in a month. After the last time i got it back from the dealer the exhaust caught on fire and almost burned the sled down. Next day took it back and traded it for a 2006. Dealer still hasnt found the problem. Glad its not my problem anymore. Last sdi ill own til they get all the issues fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That's scary. Mine caught on fire too and now it's at the dealer. I hope they won't go through all that and then not have a solution. I did try one thing recently. I took the left side injectors and switched inner with outer. Sled ran great! I thought I had it pin pointed to the inner injector. To prove my theory I figured I'd put them back to the where they where and see if it ran sh&%ty again. When I did that, it still ran great! Sled sat overnight, tried it again, and right back to same problem. Another clue. Headlight flashes on and off when I start the sled about every 2 seconds. I think the sled is trying to tell me something :) Anyway, I'll give them a chance to find it. Starting to think I should have let it BURN.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update. After I went through my story with a new dealer, they checked injector flow and claim that one is very low. Other 3 are within spec but 4th is way down. New left inner injector on the way. Should know by Tues if this is the real problem.

As far as the tank vent goes. I pulled mine and blew air into it and it flowed air. I couldn't blow through it with my mouth but if I put compressed air on it, the check valve opened and air came out the other end. I think this is OK. Keeping my fingers crossed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Still not 100%. Better with the new injector but now broke the driveshaft between the chaincase and the first drive wheel. Won't be until tomorrow to give it another rip.

Here's more confusion. There are 2 fuses in the box for the injectors. One labelled inner the other outer. If I pull Fuse #1, the sled runs good. If I pull Fuse #2 the sled doesn't. Seem like the inner injectors are still not right. Can it be one of the relays? Causing all 4 injectors to fire when only 2 are required? My understanding is the inners fire at low speed, then the outers kick in at high speed. This would explain why the sled runs with the inner injectory fuse taken out of service. I would think the sled wouldn't run with the inner fuse pulled but it does!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Took it for a rip tonight after assembly. Still boggy. I'm convinced the injectors are all firing! If I pull Fuse #1 the sled runs great just skips on top end. If I pull Fuse #2 it runs good too. I would think that it shouldn't run with Fuse #2 out since the way I understand it, 2 injectors operate all the time and the other 2 kick in at high speed. So, if I fuse out the low speed injectors, sled shouldn't run! Also, check engine light comes on after sled heats up.
 

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My O4 SDI ran great at the beginning of the season. My last two days in the UP the sled started to get a bad bog in the mid range. from between 6500 and 7000 rpm it is very noticable and I also get a pinging noise.

140psi in both cylinders

has anyone else had the pinging?

good luck doome2x

 

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no tips or suggestions because every SDI in the world bogs. Especially when you are in bumps or jumps the cut out is herendous. Makes me want to beat the darn thing with a bat.in the bumpy terrain my 600 sdi gets beat by mid 90's polaris indy lites due to engine cutting out. Only thing i can think of is that its electrical. when my warranty is up im going to solder (hardwire) every little %$#@ connector and connection under the hood and including relay and fuse box. If that doesnt work i will try a normally carbed sled
 

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Check the carb boots/reed cages for delaminating
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
No carbs, SDI, but checked reeds and boots to the throttle body. No problems there. Has to be electronic. My relays (all 3) seem fine. Tapping them as other suggestions has not produced any cutting out. Sled does not cut out. Just bogs until over 6000rpm. Gets worse as sled heats up. Runs ok when cold.
 

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i have had the same problem with mine for the past 2 months itll bog at 6000 recentley the bog has gone away it still starts bad in the cold and will pop somtimes. the first time it ever bogged was when i noticed plastic coming out of the primary it was a spacer or somthing but thats the first time it ever bogged also my tail light wont go on when im ridind just when i brake and the needle on the odometer will somtimes keep moving when on press the start button could be clutch or electrical
 
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