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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all-
Just picked up my very first sled, an MXZ 600 HO X. She's a 2003, and I believe it has about 3000 miles. Does not currently run, but expect to fix that soon.
I have a ton of newbie questions. Some model-specific, some just basic snowmobile questions.
I'm in my 40's, and know my way around engines and powersport toys, but have never dabbled with sleds. Please go gentle... "Just got it home" pic below, then a starting list of questions. I'd really appreciate anything you can share.
Tire Plant Wheel Automotive tire Automotive lighting


1. What was this model intended for? Is the HO just marketing? Or is there something unique? What about the "X" at the end of the model designation?
2. It hasn't been started in 9 years. I figure I will drain fuel, replace battery, pull carbs, replace boots, clean carbs, rebuild and reinstall carbs, replace plugs, and attempt to fire. Any other suggestions?
3. This moto tassarini v-force reed valve kit is available from dennis kirk. This appears to be the only option for 'new' carb boots. Any experiences with this? Suggestions or other ideas? Moto Tassinari V-Force V-Force 3 Reed Valve - V3124-873B-2 Snowmobile | Dennis Kirk
4. What are the common wear items, and how do I assess their condition?
  • Belt?
  • Track?
  • Carbides?
  • Picks?
  • Skis?
  • Ski bushings?
  • Shocks
  • What else should I be looking at?
5. The beavertail delete seems very common. I admit, I prefer the hardtail look. BUT, is cooling going to be effected? What are your experiences? It seems that many folks that once offered the delete kits have stopped, as the sled is almost 20 years old. Any recommendations for where to shop for one?

Any other advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. This is just day 1 of the journey, and looking forward to learning and offering more.

Thanks
Bob
 

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Hi all-
Just picked up my very first sled, an MXZ 600 HO X. She's a 2003, and I believe it has about 3000 miles. Does not currently run, but expect to fix that soon.
I have a ton of newbie questions. Some model-specific, some just basic snowmobile questions.
I'm in my 40's, and know my way around engines and powersport toys, but have never dabbled with sleds. Please go gentle... "Just got it home" pic below, then a starting list of questions. I'd really appreciate anything you can share.
View attachment 1976235

1. What was this model intended for? Is the HO just marketing? Or is there something unique? What about the "X" at the end of the model designation?
2. It hasn't been started in 9 years. I figure I will drain fuel, replace battery, pull carbs, replace boots, clean carbs, rebuild and reinstall carbs, replace plugs, and attempt to fire. Any other suggestions?
3. This moto tassarini v-force reed valve kit is available from dennis kirk. This appears to be the only option for 'new' carb boots. Any experiences with this? Suggestions or other ideas? Moto Tassinari V-Force V-Force 3 Reed Valve - V3124-873B-2 Snowmobile | Dennis Kirk
4. What are the common wear items, and how do I assess their condition?
  • Belt?
  • Track?
  • Carbides?
  • Picks?
  • Skis?
  • Ski bushings?
  • Shocks
  • What else should I be looking at?
5. The beavertail delete seems very common. I admit, I prefer the hardtail look. BUT, is cooling going to be effected? What are your experiences? It seems that many folks that once offered the delete kits have stopped, as the sled is almost 20 years old. Any recommendations for where to shop for one?

Any other advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. This is just day 1 of the journey, and looking forward to learning and offering more.

Thanks
Bob
9 years?! Damn! How many miles on it? Worst thing for any engine is to let it sit. I'd pull the plugs, spray the cylinders with penetrating oil good and let it sit for a few days. Even before that, you might consider spraying the plugs with penetrating oil to make sure they break free and don't just break. Then try to turn it over gently with the plugs out, make sure you're not scaring anything due to rust. Then run compression test on it, make sure you're not heading for a top-end rebuild Check your brake pad/rotor too to make sure it's not rusted up before you attempt to run it.

When you know the motor will spin freely and it's got some lube, then start with motor basics:
  • Clean carb
  • Replace boots
  • Replace fuel lines
  • Replace plugs
  • Replace fuel
  • Replace oil
  • Replace chain oil

Then see if you can get it fired up and running. After that, check track, replace hyfax, replace carbides.
 

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That's probably sarcasm.
2016 1200 Renegade X
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Hi all-
Just picked up my very first sled, an MXZ 600 HO X. She's a 2003, and I believe it has about 3000 miles. Does not currently run, but expect to fix that soon.
I have a ton of newbie questions. Some model-specific, some just basic snowmobile questions.
I'm in my 40's, and know my way around engines and powersport toys, but have never dabbled with sleds. Please go gentle... "Just got it home" pic below, then a starting list of questions. I'd really appreciate anything you can share.
View attachment 1976235

1. What was this model intended for? Is the HO just marketing? Or is there something unique? What about the "X" at the end of the model designation?
2. It hasn't been started in 9 years. I figure I will drain fuel, replace battery, pull carbs, replace boots, clean carbs, rebuild and reinstall carbs, replace plugs, and attempt to fire. Any other suggestions?
3. This moto tassarini v-force reed valve kit is available from dennis kirk. This appears to be the only option for 'new' carb boots. Any experiences with this? Suggestions or other ideas? Moto Tassinari V-Force V-Force 3 Reed Valve - V3124-873B-2 Snowmobile | Dennis Kirk
4. What are the common wear items, and how do I assess their condition?
  • Belt?
  • Track?
  • Carbides?
  • Picks?
  • Skis?
  • Ski bushings?
  • Shocks
  • What else should I be looking at?
5. The beavertail delete seems very common. I admit, I prefer the hardtail look. BUT, is cooling going to be effected? What are your experiences? It seems that many folks that once offered the delete kits have stopped, as the sled is almost 20 years old. Any recommendations for where to shop for one?

Any other advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. This is just day 1 of the journey, and looking forward to learning and offering more.

Thanks
Bob

Welcome to DooTalk, nice sled.

1) the HO is High Output. There have been different types of 600 motors, HO, 500SS (which was a 600) and the SDI HO. It really just separated the 3. The X relates mostly to the shock and decal package. The X shocks are what you want, they can be rebuilt when they get sacked out.

2) Sounds like a good plan.

3) Vforce reeds are good, I had them in my SDI.

4) Check the track for rot, you don't wnat it letting go out on the trail, nor do you want studs coming out. New belt for sure. Check all the pivot points in the suspension and the front arms, make sure they move. Grease them.

5) first time you end up in deep snow off a trail you'll wish you deleted the Beavertail. Shouldn't cause any cooling issues.

Sounds like you are on the right track.
 
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I believe Boysen still makes their Rage Cage Boots for that sled. Aluminum boots so they can't delaminate. Not sure I am supposed to post a link or not, so just google 'boysen rage cage', and it should come right up.

I doubt you will find anyone still making a beaver tail delete kit. Lots of folks did it and reported no cooling issues.

X-package in addition to the shocks and appearance differences got you some beefed-up parts like those fishbone tunnel reinforcements and if recall correctly maybe a stainless brake line and different brake rotor (maybe).
 

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In 2003 the 600 had ring flaking issues. Check the compression. Hopefully above 125 on each side. Remove the clutch and see if the crankseal is still holding the grease in the bearings.
Brake master cylinder may get gummed up, perhaps fresh fluid.
If you get it running, get the shocks rebuild too.
 

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The cylinders are Nicasil plated by Rotax and not prone to corrosion. I wouldn't use penetrating oil unless the engine was open to clean it up good and apply 2S oil. Before cranking over the engine, I give it a thorough visual inspection through the intake and exhaust ports. If nothing stands out, then I give it a compression test and go from there.

Below I added a link to thread on ring flaking, but focus on Djm. I believe the 600HO is the longest running engine, so any mention of the exhaust ports being too wide has long been debunked with the update to the new rings. I have read about questionable chamfer on the exhaust port for the 2003, and have seen it once in a picture posted on DooTalk. Plating shops would probably be the best place to ask for port chamfer details on the earliest 600HO. I have run those rings on the earliest 600HO SDI (MY2004) and had no issues until the rings overheated from a lean condition. That is when I saw the rings flaking for the first time.

Ring flaking - read the posts from Djm

The V-Force reads will be fine. They provide slightly more air intake from the W design having twice as many petals than the V style. BRP went to the W in 2019 with the release of the 600R, which is based off of the 600HO. More air also draws more fuel from the venturi effect, so there should not be a need to adjust jetting.

It has a DPM from the picture you posted. That is a sweet deal as it adjusts the fuel intake for varying air density.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Gents-
Thank you so much for the replies. This is very useful information. I ordered some parts from Dennis Kirk, and should get them this week. Service manual, new battery, and delete kit just arrived as well. Hopefully by the end of the week I'll have the carbs back on with the new boots and give it a real shot at firing.

Upon close inspection, I did notice a very slight difference in spacing between shock and a-arm from one side to the other. Maybe a 1/8" - 3/16" difference. I reached out to powermodz for their brace kit, which hopefully will be simple to install and help my knock things back into square, and then keep it that way. Is a minor difference like this anything to be concerned about?

I gave it a very quick wash before pulling her into the shop, and it shines up very nicely! More pics & info coming soon.

Thank you again!
 

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I would not be worried in the least about 1/8” to 3/16” difference in shock spacing. Have seen these sleds with the a arms almost touching the springs and still drive fine. I like to measure from the lower ball joints to the rear axle bolts to give a quick indication of how square the front end is. Unfortunately the front crossmemeber or “nun” as it is commonly called is weaker than the a-arms in most instances. Chassis braces are a good idea if there’s any sign of bending behind the muffler or under the primary clutch.
 

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I find it a real shame to deleted the beaver tail. As is, it may get you half the price of a new sled.
 

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For the Mach Z we have the first MY2005 that we call them unmolested.
 

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Those shock springs have some wiggle room left to right as they sit on the shock too. I bet you can nudge one to make them both have the same clearance to the a arm
 

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I went thru the same experience with a 03 600ho X a few years back. I purchased the sled from a gentleman out in NY where it was stored in his basement since new in 03. With only 1700 miles the sled looks great but hid some major expenses. The sled ran but was low on compression shortly after buying. Had reverse issues and super low idle. Did a compression test and it was below 90psi on each cylinder. The 03 600ho has a major ring flaking issue and mine sure had it. The rings had the center missing of the ring. Brought it to the dealer for a top end and one new cylinder. The sled ran great after but 700 miles later the crank seal blew out 4 times spraying isoflex but did not suck air in. Soon after the idle and reverse issue came back which was a tell-tell sign low compression again. This time both cylinders were smeered with aluminum from the rings. At this point I was done with the motor and after airdoox seal retainer kit hold a buldging seal in this was only going to end in a boom. I bite the bullet and threw a new crate motor in from doo. After pricing a new crank and oem top end and new cylinders a crate motor was cheaper. When doing the crate motor we realized not a single hole was tapped beside the head bolts. This slowed myself and buddy down when swapping in the new crate motor in this classic sled. We did have new cases which was awesome.

Pretty much the lesson learned was this sled became the biggest headache and money pit. At the end of the day I have a collectible sled with low miles that runs with modern reliable equipment but I have X2.5 the value in the sled.

Track
Motor
Skid
Carbs
Lines
Bearings
Bushings
Shocks
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These are two of the sweetest looking sleds I have ever seen.

Original - first production year - 2003 Rev X 600 HO

Does it get any better? Nope.
 

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Before ordering any parts, confirm the compression and get it running.

Then repair and replace.

Always sucks ordering 1k worth of parts then discover the motor is done.

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This is a collectabe that is not worth much without the beaver tail. See how much it will sell as is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I find it a real shame to deleted the beaver tail. As is, it may get you half the price of a new sled.
Hey Daag-
I'm thinking I can do this without creating irreversible damage, although time will tell. Before any modifications, I will be going through it with a fine tooth comb and getting it running/riding right. If someone wants to offer me half the price of a new sled somewhere along that journey, they can have it with or without the beavertail. :)
 

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Hey Daag-
I'm thinking I can do this without creating irreversible damage, although time will tell. Before any modifications, I will be going through it with a fine tooth comb and getting it running/riding right. If someone wants to offer me half the price of a new sled somewhere along that journey, they can have it with or without the beavertail. :)
Good idea. The beaver tail provides better cooling. Otherwise it will run hot and look terrible.
 

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While I agree this is a cool sled, I am not sure it has reached collectible status yet. At least not "half the cost of a new sled" collectible. LOL. Give it a few more years to brew and this sled might go up in value, but I don't think we are there yet. I just checked my local craigslist and there is an 03 600HO Rev for sale with 5K miles for $2,200. Granted it has the beavertail delete, but my point remains. This sled is still on the downward side of its depreciation curve, and it will be a few more years before it starts heading up with collectible value.

While I never minded the beavertail look on my 03, to each his own. Plenty of 03 sleds out there that never had a cooling issue after a beavertail delete. Me personally, if I only had one sled, you can be darn sure I am going to ride it rather than look at it, and hope fuelrod does the same.
 

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FYI, I have personally reported cooling issues with the delete kit. I also know first hand that is a poor mod that lacks tunnel strength. I too have read all those cool things, but I never saw anything cool about it.

This is an odd year with limited sleds on the market. Over here, $3,000 will get you a 2004 REV 600 with over 20,000 miles. When I was looking to buy a 600 back in Oct of 2011, I could not find a 600 with reasonable miles, so I bought a 1000 <shake my head> lol Had I had an once of sense, I would have spent less on the purchase and invested in a solid engine. 800_XRS is not the only one who got caught. There are many of us who didn't know better and opted for the just run it routine.
 
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