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1709

Member Since 14 Feb 2020
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 11:45 PM
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#23510491 NEW 2021 Summit Gauge

Posted by 1709 on 09 October 2020 - 09:08 PM

it would work but you would have to change the ECU, wiring harness, gauge and pod.  not worth the money.




#23477623 Silber turbo rough idle cold

Posted by 1709 on 09 September 2020 - 12:12 PM

you said the guy that put on the turbo said right after he put the turbo on it has never idled when cold,    So nothing else was changed rather then the tune.  reeds, compression, plug gap, EGT sensor, MAP sensor  do not go bad or change because the turbo was installed.  the tune is not right for the cold idle circuit. and that`s why it does not idle right when cold.  to much fuel?  not saying it`s what is wrong.  but  I would call Silber and see if there is a way to reflash it.   then you know for sure.   kind of funny that it idled fine cold before he added the turbo and tune, then after it did not.




#23475465 2020.5 vs 2021 summit 850 turbo

Posted by 1709 on 07 September 2020 - 10:20 AM

The only difference are colours, and gauge,  So if you can get a 2020.5  at a really good price, and save 3000 or more,  then i would go that way,
you can put a wrap on it and have a one off,   you can put the new gauge on the 2020.5  but you have to change wiring harness, gauge, pod, ECU,
So that would cost to much.  with your savings you can add extra warranty also, clutch kit, and some add accessories.




#23465639 Dealers are getting them now

Posted by 1709 on 25 August 2020 - 07:34 AM

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#23456843 Dealers are getting them now

Posted by 1709 on 11 August 2020 - 11:10 PM

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#23456609 850 gade x under 20mph

Posted by 1709 on 11 August 2020 - 06:20 PM

Nice work Joe, and great you have Dale to help you with making springs that you want,

Now A question for you,  according to you on your site, how to figure out the rate of a spring not the "force"  as you say. LOL

100-360    you take 360 minus 100 = 260 divided by 1.25/inch = 208 that is the spring rate for that spring.

now if you take the 150-350 spring the rate would be 200 divided by 1.25 = 160 spring rate.

now if you keep the same ramps in, will the 100-360 spring be more throttle responsive then the 150-350 spring because of the higher rate?

 

enquiring minds want to know.    thanks.  or better yet how does spring rate effect throttle response.




#23442863 "Snappy" throttle/clutch engagement.

Posted by 1709 on 20 July 2020 - 10:58 PM

My opinion, this "sensitivity" is purely clutch parts; namely the ramps and their inherent start angle.  When i remove the 441 ramps from an 800etec and install my DJ ramps (415/441 blend) the sled will have the same result of the surging off the bottom end.  Then I get rid of the sensitivity with my ramps by going from a 160/xxx primary spring to a 130/xxx primary spring.

 

Ive also made shims to test belt clearance, placing a plastic shim made out of windshield washer jug plastic or blue crazy carpet and put that shim on top of the primary clutch spring cover.  This shim will be in between the spring cover and governor cup.  That shim will push the sheave more closer to the drive belt.  Hahaha....can't use "sun dried" crazy carpet because that plastic was hard and blew into pieces and jammed the clutch.  No damage though, just have to hit the kill switch because the sled keeps on going when the throttle is off. HAHA...i was laffing.

 

I've taken a set of the 966, 965 and 990 ramps and ground a modified tip on them, this lowers the engagement speed a bit, but mostly, loads the bottom end more and completely eliminates that "sensitivity".  I literally breath on the throttle and my sled starts to move like a tundra xtreme.  I can make my own sled crawl at a 1/4 mph.

 

The other detail you can look at is the "belt gap"  Ive seen pDrives with .080 clearance and that extra clearance will make the bottom end surge.  Tighten up the belt gap with some shims to .030~.020 (1/4mm) and that surging is lowered substantially.  With a bigger belt gap, the clutch gets to take "a run" at the drive belt.  When you have closed up the gap, the sheave can't take "a run" at the belt.  Sheave engages the belt right away.

Joe, <<<

 

Ive also made shims to test belt clearance, placing a plastic shim made out of windshield washer jug plastic or blue crazy carpet and put that shim on top of the primary clutch spring cover.  This shim will be in between the spring cover and governor cup.  That shim will push the sheave more closer to the drive belt.  Hahaha....can't use "sun dried" crazy carpet because that plastic was hard and blew into pieces and jammed the clutch.  No damage though, just have to hit the kill switch because the sled keeps on going when the throttle is off. HAHA...i was laffing. >>>

is this the same as closing the "Belt gap" ? with spyder shims?       need a pic of  a shim between the spring cover and governor cup.  thanks.




#23432995 21 Freeride 165 turbo

Posted by 1709 on 29 June 2020 - 06:49 PM

Well i have one,  and the clutching can be improved for better driveability  in the lower RPMS.  engagement is to high, harder on belts,
this sled was clutched for 8,000 feet and higher, from engagement 4,000 RPMS to about 5800 RPMS there is no pull, just real revy,
and then starts to pull, very annoying when driving down a road getting to the mountains, harder on fuel also,  it is because of the new ramp 984
and it`s profile,   now with this ramp you get great throttle response because it`s really revy, but you can change to a different ramp and load the engine in the lower RPMS and make it pull and get faster track speed and acceleration and still have great throttle response with the right primary spring. and secondary spring.   some people like the stock clutching and high engagement, and that`s great.  each to his own, I like lower engagement
 and clutch it so it pulls through all the RPMS.   either way it`s a great sled, a really game changer.   for those that have snow checked one, you will love it,




#23271599 850T wrap

Posted by 1709 on 15 February 2020 - 08:44 AM

here is my new wrap.

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