Sorry for the late response I forgot to post an update. Talked with trailer manufacturer in Bristol, Indiana and he too agreed that we should not be experiencing the issues that we were. Scheduled a day to take it to the manufacturer so they could check it out. They found that one of the tires was starting to develop a very slight chop on the inside. After further investigation they found that one of the axle hubs was bent. They were able to get both axles warrantied through the axle manufacturer and bolted up a complete new set of running gear under the trailer with the axles just to make sure everything was right. When I pulled the trailer home it definitely seemed a lot better. The problem was always way worse when the trailer was empty and the day I pulled it home after getting the new axles was the best that trailer has ever towed empty. When we purchased the trailer, the dealer we bought it from talked a lot about Stealth's warranty department and how good they were and I can say they definitely took care of us.
Installed mine two weeks ago. Removed safety decals making sure it was completely off and cleaned with rubbing alcohol. Heated the panels up with heat gun before applying the pads. Then I heated the pads up while pressing them down. They feel solid and rode 200 miles last weekend and they are still solid.
I have a renegade 850 X with 1-1/4" ripsaw and 96 studs. I am planning on moving my 4" carbides to the outside runner and replacing the center with 6" or 8" carbides? What is everyone running in the center with 4" outside?
Same here! Sled is AWESOME! Extremely snappy with a lot of torque. Glad the rear blocks are quickly adjusted with the push buttons( had to pull over at the trail head on the first ride and crank those over to 3 so I could stay on the trail in the turns) was definitely fun with the blocks on 1 tho [emoji13] lol
The thing that "edit for bad language" me off the most was the guy I talked to from Robs performance was a real smarta** about it. Told him I had heard different things and some people said its just bolt on and some said cable was needed and he told me to get off dootalk. Obviously he should be on dootalk so he can know what he's talking about.
How do you guys load your 3 place inline trailers when only hauling 2 sleds?
When hauling 3 sled I load them front to back but when I haul 2 sleds I load them from the back and pull the ski tips of the front sled up to the start of the v and then run the next sled up to that one.
Should I still be loading from the front when hauling two? Just curious as to what everyone else does.
As far as the flooring goes, I too went through this when I bought my new 7x23 stealth last year. I found that low pro grip glides and track grips on the ramps and nothing on the floor works well. Nice not having a bunch of things on the floor and once the sled is in the trailer you won't spin the track. I have the advantech flooring in mine and it seems to be holding up to the carbides very well so far.
I load and unload mine un hitched with no problems and I don't have rear stabilizers.
Finally got the new trailer setup. Maybe some more accessories coming later but I think she's good to go for this season.
I added e track on the floor down the center and on the walls all the way around the trailer.
Mounted spare tire on wall.
Moved breakaway battery box to make room for small floor jack in the nose for changing a flat.
Added grip glides and grabber bars on the
Mounted propane tank. Have a top heater for it in the cabinet just in case we need to do any wrenching in the trailer.
And put a coat of fresh wax on her for the season lol
Very happy how everything turned out. I thought I'd share my etrack setup because so far it works out great. The ski that runs down the center of the trailer no matter what side the sled is loaded on perfectly strattles the etrack on the floor. The etrac on the walls are just high enough that the skis dont touch it.
no ,they're there .look close at post 18 out sides
This sled has tunnel protectors on it already because it came in with the ice ripper track. I believe anyone that ordered one with a rip saw track will need to install tunnel protectors if they are planning on studding it.
What do you guys put on the skin of your trailers to keep the finish from fading?
Got the trailer at the end of last winter and I want to start putting something on it once or twice a year to protect the finish. Do you guys just use regular vehicle wax? If so what exactly do you use?
Also anything I can to do to keep the aluminum tubing from oxidizing?
Posted by Brads670
on 23 September 2016 - 06:57 PM
Well I did some research and a lot of guys were complaining about sway caused by the P rated tires that came on my f150. The sidewalls on the P rated tires are too thin and flex when the trailer gets hit with a crosswind causing the truck to shift or shimmy. I'm assuming other manufactures put P rated tires on their half ton trucks so they ride nice as well. Seen a lot of complaints regarding P rated on the f150s. They said putting a d range tire really helped. Well just got 275/55/20 BF Goodrich ko2 put on there...they are a load range D and I ran them at 50psi. Loaded up the trailer and took it for a drive since we had 10-12 mph winds today and it is night and day different! The rig feels solid when driving now. Can actually drive comfortably with one hand on the wheel even when passing semis.
Probably still going to get the Andersen setup just for extra stability when the winds really get whipping but I would definitely say problem solved!
Posted by Brads670
on 21 September 2016 - 08:07 PM
I wasn't saying anyone on an 850 dominates...just saying when comparing the sidewinder to the 850 that the sidewinder will be hard to beet on the lake and the sidewinder will be hard to beet in the trails.
I agree with you that the rider has a lot to do with the outcome in the trails. I just don't think the sidewinders shining area will be the trails no matter the rider...
Correction - 850 will be hard to beet in the trails