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600 etec clutch kit who should I buy from and what kit


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#16 FKskidoo2008

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Posted 09 October 2011 - 06:53 PM

put the stage 2 kit in my 09 etec short track. Runs great, big difference.

#17 Daag44

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Posted 20 June 2016 - 12:29 AM

"If you guys can think of anything else that will help performance let me know....?"
 
The easiest performance gain I have found was to ensure the engine kept running the way it was intended to, or perhaps a little safer if needed. In other words I look at how the engine runs first before any upgrades. Don't worry, I too took notes of any suggested clutching and gearing changes :)


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#18 Ski-B

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Posted 21 June 2016 - 06:48 PM

If you are talking 600 etec Backcountry?

 

I have been up down and all over the place with my 600 etec Backcountry clutching. Ended the season in slushy wet snow and all stock clutching, with only change being a 160-260 primary spring and a purple secondary spring. Stock 48 helix, clicker #3, 412 ramps. This seemed to work well for our style riding but still struggling with slight over rev on top end. Gearing is 22/49.

 

I really don't like the 412 ramps. I would like to try and make 413s work in it next season.


2020 Freeride 850. My ride.

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2017 Freeride 860R etec. 860BB. Daughters sled.

2015 Freeride 800R etec. All Stock. Wifes sled.

2015 BCX  800R etec. Trail ported. Spare sled.

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#19 IcutMetl

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Posted 21 June 2016 - 08:10 PM

If you are talking 600 etec Backcountry?

I have been up down and all over the place with my 600 etec Backcountry clutching. Ended the season in slushy wet snow and all stock clutching, with only change being a 160-260 primary spring and a purple secondary spring. Stock 48 helix, clicker #3, 412 ramps. This seemed to work well for our style riding but still struggling with slight over rev on top end. Gearing is 22/49.

I really don't like the 412 ramps. I would like to try and make 413s work in it next season.


Have you considered that your over-revving may be a function of low gearing and overdrive and not your clutching? I went down the same road last season. The DJ kit IS more fun though, so it's all good!

#20 Ski-B

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Posted 21 June 2016 - 08:59 PM

Yes for sure...have been slowly gearing up as well.

 

Wanting to try some more combos next season. Thanks Brent.


2020 Freeride 850. My ride.

2018 XRS 850 Sons sled.

2017 Freeride 860R etec. 860BB. Daughters sled.

2015 Freeride 800R etec. All Stock. Wifes sled.

2015 BCX  800R etec. Trail ported. Spare sled.

2014 BCX 800R etec. All stock. Spare sled.

1998 Formula S 380. She is a keeper.


#21 Dynamo^Joe

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Posted 22 June 2016 - 08:17 AM

If you are talking 600 etec Backcountry?

 

I have been up down and all over the place with my 600 etec Backcountry clutching. Ended the season in slushy wet snow and all stock clutching, with only change being a 160-260 primary spring and a purple secondary spring. Stock 48 helix, clicker #3, 412 ramps. This seemed to work well for our style riding but still struggling with slight over rev on top end. Gearing is 22/49.

 

I really don't like the 412 ramps. I would like to try and make 413s work in it next season.

if you go to a 413 or 414 or 415 - either one of those ramps push harder from about 1/2~2/3 of the shift towards top end than the 412.

You will find the engine speed can drift low as speed increases

or

Engine speed will be correct towards top end on full throttle pull, but back off throttle, get back on it, or, a good load variation to cause engine speed to drop, it will be difficult to recover - unless you raise spring final force.  Like going from a xxx/260 to a xxx/290 to a xxx/320 finish - gettit?  :wink_old:

 

ramp_417.412.415.jpg

 

Remember that 413, 414, 415 ramps are the same from about 1/3 shift to top end.

ramp_413.4.5-resize.jpg



#22 BIG JOHN

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Posted 24 June 2016 - 10:22 AM

If you are talking 600 etec Backcountry?

 

I have been up down and all over the place with my 600 etec Backcountry clutching. Ended the season in slushy wet snow and all stock clutching, with only change being a 160-260 primary spring and a purple secondary spring. Stock 48 helix, clicker #3, 412 ramps. This seemed to work well for our style riding but still struggling with slight over rev on top end. Gearing is 22/49.

 

I really don't like the 412 ramps. I would like to try and make 413s work in it next season.

what rpm is "over rev", they do like 8200-8400...

 

your whole problem is the 48 helix, using a 230/303 to help low speed, back shift, rpm but then run into an over rev from to light of pin weight...the 43/47 and a doo green and 18 grams (adj as needed to control rpm) would be a lot more off trail friendly/snappier...

 

the 48 was installed/designed SOLELY to get 20 mpg on Quebec trail system...

 

any off trail/deeper lug track the helix is the FIRST thing to change...

 

43/47, 44 and either the doo black or green are the only real easy options...

 

the primary needs a 160/260 or 160/290 max...a 200 start can hit the rev limiter...

 

412s work just fine for 95% of trail/off trail conditions...

 

1 mm rollers are a nice bump for the lake racer...

 

just add a 3mm shim kit to align clutches...

 

SHR trail port/2 ring pistons are a nice bump in HP/TQ (I want to doo a 700HO BB but need a sled to build/dial in)...

 

Vforce, SPI single also an easy bump...

 

the bondi box?? more air cant hurt...

 

gearing for track/riding conditions/rider weight is also very important...

 

you will LOSE MPGs with most kits/regear since DOO was shooting for 20 mpg and compromising "performance' and "feel"- BJ


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#23 Ski-B

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Posted 24 June 2016 - 01:03 PM

OH... maybe i am OK ...spins up to 8200- 8300 rpm max. I assumed nothing over 8100 rpm,  was the happy spot. Was trying to achieve 8100 rpm all the way up. 

 

Over all the 48 deg works best for our riding style. The 43/47 had bad rpm spikes off/on throttle at lower speeds, a real poor upshift curve. Just did not like it. I think the 43/47 would be fine for the old 09 600 etec, Had one and they run like crap. This 2012 runs real nice, crisp on the throttle no dead spots anywhere in the rpm range.

 

22/49 with 1.75 track runs out of gear around 145 km in field. But not to bad for a 600cc sled i thought.

 

Have a set of 600HO etec jugs and rave valves sitting on the bench. Really seriously thinking of doing a 700 etec. I just need to find an in expensive head for the project. Thanks Brent.


2020 Freeride 850. My ride.

2018 XRS 850 Sons sled.

2017 Freeride 860R etec. 860BB. Daughters sled.

2015 Freeride 800R etec. All Stock. Wifes sled.

2015 BCX  800R etec. Trail ported. Spare sled.

2014 BCX 800R etec. All stock. Spare sled.

1998 Formula S 380. She is a keeper.


#24 BIG JOHN

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Posted 08 July 2016 - 10:44 AM

OH... maybe i am OK ...spins up to 8200- 8300 rpm max. I assumed nothing over 8100 rpm,  was the happy spot. Was trying to achieve 8100 rpm all the way up. 

 

Over all the 48 deg works best for our riding style. The 43/47 had bad rpm spikes off/on throttle at lower speeds, a real poor upshift curve. Just did not like it. I think the 43/47 would be fine for the old 09 600 etec, Had one and they run like crap. This 2012 runs real nice, crisp on the throttle no dead spots anywhere in the rpm range.

 

22/49 with 1.75 track runs out of gear around 145 km in field. But not to bad for a 600cc sled i thought.

 

Have a set of 600HO etec jugs and rave valves sitting on the bench. Really seriously thinking of doing a 700 etec. I just need to find an in expensive head for the project. Thanks Brent.

with what QRS spring Brent??

 

from my testing with the 43/47...

doo black (160/303) for the 120's

doo green (180/303) for the renegades/off trail

optionial is the SPI red (165/315) works all around

anything like the pur/pur (230/303) is wrong and wont upshift/will spike rpm just like the 200 start rate TRA spring...BJ

 

I have a etec 600 head....


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#25 tnt5150

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Posted 23 July 2016 - 10:39 AM

with what QRS spring Brent??

from my testing with the 43/47...
doo black (160/303) for the 120's
doo green (180/303) for the renegades/off trail
optionial is the SPI red (165/315) works all around
anything like the pur/pur (230/303) is wrong and wont upshift/will spike rpm just like the 200 start rate TRA spring...BJ

I have a etec 600 head....

BJ, I have Stock 600etec X 2016. Only mod I made is switching to 43/47 helix. I am a corner to corner guy. Should I drop 1 tooth as well? Nothing has been done to primary.

"Say when"

 

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#26 Djetski225

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Posted 24 July 2016 - 10:09 PM

Check this link out. Lots of good info.

http://www.dootalk.c...etec-clutching/

#27 BIG JOHN

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Posted 10 August 2016 - 10:12 AM

BJ, I have Stock 600etec X 2016. Only mod I made is switching to 43/47 helix. I am a corner to corner guy. Should I drop 1 tooth as well? Nothing has been done to primary.

on trail/shorty 129 I assume...

 

keep the green spring

 

stock gearing ok unless your a bigger guy 225+ (shoulda bought a 800) :cool_old:

 

I would add an adj pin kit (13.6-19.6 medium kit) and add a little weight (stock in 16.4) start at 17 grams clicker 3...if over revs go to 18 grams...

 

if you want it a little more zip off the line a 160/260 spring will help (stock is 130/260)...BJ


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SHR has your GEN4 dialed!

"Best clutching on the mountain" 


#28 tnt5150

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Posted 10 August 2016 - 08:06 PM

on trail/shorty 129 I assume...

keep the green spring

stock gearing ok unless your a bigger guy 225+ (shoulda bought a 800) :cool_old:

I would add an adj pin kit (13.6-19.6 medium kit) and add a little weight (stock in 16.4) start at 17 grams clicker 3...if over revs go to 18 grams...

if you want it a little more zip off the line a 160/260 spring will help (stock is 130/260)...BJ

thank you! And yes 129. I am 215lbs. Had an 800, can't justify

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#29 Dynamo^Joe

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Posted 16 August 2016 - 02:17 PM

ooOOooh...I think this is new addition to your signature eh?  1.75 track mentioned for future?

stickman89.jpg

.

....scuze me boiz, my turn. 

 

This clutch kit converts more engine torque than you ever used before from stock clutching for a 1.75 track or bigger.  The kit was step-by-step developed so the parts will work well with the efficiency of your future bigger track lug size.

 

It also has features for a prosperous future for when you choose to go to a big bore with simple pinweight and primary spring progression.

 

The kit will dig deep and pull out all the 600etec muscles from the engine and has the ability to make them useful not only wherever, but however you are going to run the sled.

 

You feel a tight connection between your thumb and the snow.  Drive the clutching as smart as you want; it’s a delight for accuracy in technical sidehilling and then pull on the handlebar, grab full throttle and quickly accumulate a squirt of track speed to climb that hill or down to burst through fresh snow across a meadow.

 

When you want to drive more aggressive, the feeling is like having a gigantic hand on the front bumper, pulling you up even on the steepest hill β€œwoo hoo”, and then holding the sled back by strong engine braking when coming down.

 

When you need the power to overtake, there is more power on tap than before, converted to the ground to accelerate and pass - and still pull off good top end for a 1.75 (geared correctly)

 

You can drive this clutch kit with the same good fuel economy as stock clutching, most times even better.  Because of the low revving, high torque feature; when you need to drive for fuel economy on the way out - drive it gently and you will be rewarded with lower fuel consumption from lower engine speed at part throttle and arrive back at the trailer. 

 

With all the pieces set in place from the clutching to gears optimized for your track; there is more 600 etec power under your thumb, just waiting to be converted. (no matter your overall rider weight w/gear)

 

Turn key - pain free - I took care of everything (including asking you questions to know what to optimize) so you can just install and drive and not fiddle with anything except worrying about hogging all the fresh snow.

 

They are $334 CDN ($261 USD estimated today)

...cain't beat that with a stick.

600e_120_137x1.75.jpg



#30 Dynamo^Joe

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Posted 16 August 2016 - 03:34 PM

Going from a 1.25 lug (25 top gear) on a 600e up to a 1.75 lug then should gear down at least 3 teeth.

Ideally 2 teeth down for every 1/4" increase on a 600 when you are going to do more fresh snow.

The boxes with "amber" color are top speeds you can pull off where conditions allow them speeds - safely without damaging the belt.

I would go for minimum 22 top gear - dont have to change the chain to a 22 - all lower gears have to go to the next smaller chain length.

gearing for xrs600 1.75.jpg






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