2012 800 etec no reverse or e start
Posted 09 June 2021 - 01:49 AM
Posted 09 June 2021 - 06:54 AM
Two fuses. Looking at battery from side , fuse holders on top of battery box are 15 amp on left to charge battery, 20 amp on right for start and RER. Start there, pun intended.
Posted 09 June 2021 - 10:47 AM
Posted 09 June 2021 - 11:38 AM
On my 16 800 ETEC, I have a 5 amp on left and 25 on right. But I am pretty sure the fuses I suggested are correct for your year. Somebody might chime in. There may be a reason why the previous owner pulled the fuses. There may be an issue with wiring, the starter motor itself or something else that made them pull the fuse(for safety?) I would try to jump starter direct from battery to see if it reacts properly.
Posted 09 June 2021 - 10:16 PM
Posted 10 June 2021 - 07:34 AM
You can try a slightly higher amp fuse in starter circuit, but I would bet the issue is with the starter motor itself. It may be shot/locked up. Do you know how to jump the solenoid? You can try that as well just to see if the 12v spins the shaft. If it does, that eliminates the starter motor. Did the 20a fuse blow when you attempted to estart?
Edited by Thumb2bar, 10 June 2021 - 07:36 AM.
Posted 10 June 2021 - 09:59 AM
Posted 10 June 2021 - 12:50 PM
Check the battery lead to starter, make sure connection is good at starter. Sounds like the starter is bad. Probably why fuse was pulled.
Posted 10 June 2021 - 01:51 PM
Rebuild it. A lot of times people will spray WD-40 on the starter when it starts sticking. That is a temp fix and usually leads to rebuilding.
Basically there are just a few parts that wear:
Bendix - spiral gear that pushes the starter gear out. Usually doesn't fail, but often gets gummed up and sticks. Belt dust accelerates the process.
Brushes - These wear down and can even break. Typically you have to disassemble the motor assembly to get at them.
Bearings - Two main bearings, one on each end of the shaft. The one on the start gear end can get wallowed out and typically requires replacing the whole starter, but the brass bearings inside can be replaced by common ones you can pick up at a bearing or electrical rebuilders store/shop.
I always figure, if the starter is bad, I have nothing to lose by tearing it apart and troubleshooting the issue.
also, some electrical rebuilders will rebuild snowmobile/ATV starters, but I've found they really don't like to. Probably repair cost vs replacement cost.
Posted 11 June 2021 - 09:58 PM
Posted 12 June 2021 - 09:28 AM
Posted 12 June 2021 - 03:03 PM
You might have a bad switch if you have nothing. In that case spray the switch down with wd40 and keep hitting the switch to work it in. Plastic sometimes builds up on the contacts and wd4” usually will clean it off. Or pull the switch and lightly clean the contacts with sandpaper.
If it’s just going dead when you hit the switch, bust out the comp tester and check it
Posted 13 June 2021 - 02:30 PM
all typical issues, i had them. control block on handle bar is probably junk, had to replace mine. have someone tap the starter while you push the button. had to clean and lube mine but would still occasionally stick. have heard the aftermarket starters are junk but who knows. try the reverse with no belt, if too tight, won't work. good luck !
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