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Went from 2 to 20 grease zerks


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#1 Pepper1681

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Posted 03 April 2021 - 03:30 PM

As the snow is long gone here, I started putting the sled away for the summer. Frustrated that BRP has dropped the grease zerks to two on the rear skid, I did a pile of research and decided to add grease zerks everywhere I thought they were needed. I added 10 to the rear skid, every spot except the ends of the front shock. I simply carefully measured, drilled into the appropriate spot, and tapped for a zerk. Had to add a washer here and there as the zerk was too deep and did a bit of filing on others.

 

For the front, I did look into the kits that are available but in my mind the cost was prohibitive. I did some more research and decided to pick up some cobalt drill bits and rifle drilled and cross drilled the 8 bolts of the front end and added zerks.  I also added oilite bushings and got rid of the plastic junk.  I simply took off the hood, (10 screws) and it gave me total access to everything. It turned out very well and I now figure I'll never have to replace worn out suspension parts.

 

Couple of questions for the forum, 1- I came across some comments that indicated there are two zerks on the steering column but I could not find anything. Are there and grease points on the steering column.  2- I've looked at the front A-Arm lower ball joint and wondered if there is room behind the plate to add a grease zerk to that.  Anyone know.

 

Sorry I didn't take any pictures but the whole process drilling the Grade 10.9 bolts was way easier than I thought it would be.  I used a cheap old crappy drill press with a $40 drill press vice and the cobalt bits. 3/32 cross drilled to center of the bold (5mm) , 7/32 bit into the head for the zerk and 5/32 down to the cross hole. Used some cutting oil and patience and boom, all good for the life of the sled.


2017 Renegade Adrenaline 900 Ace

2000 Grand Touring 600

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1987 Formula Plus 521

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#2 DOOLIFE800

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Posted 03 April 2021 - 07:35 PM

2016 800 XRS, been doing the rear suspensions for years, drilling and tapping. Don't know how you got 10 in there I've got eight I thought I'd cover them all. Finally got sick of replacing the plastic bushings every year and greasing only to find them Rusty when I tore them apart in the summer. Bought some of the cheap probably oil light bushings, drilled and tapped the top of the two upper a arms. Had to put 90 degrees in the front upper a-arm to get access. Drilled for holes in the two lower A-Arms facing down. Even drilled holes in my skid plate with plastic plugs that I'm going to tape over just to make sure they stay in place. So now I can grease everything during the season. As far as the lower ball joint I've been putting in a needle type Grease fitting in my grease gun raising the seal up and with a bend in the needle I stick it up in there and squirt a full of grease, work it around and let the extra ooz out. Those joints have 19,000 miles on them and they are tight as new. Also I hit the steering ball joints with 90 weight gear oil after every ride. They're still pretty tight after 19000 miles. There's no zerks on my steering column. Never heard of any on x p or x s model. Just tore into them the first time and the upper one was dry but very little wear even paint on the steering shaft yet. Lower one plastic look good but paint was worn and one of the two seals needed replacement

Edited by DOOLIFE800, 03 April 2021 - 07:40 PM.


#3 Minnesota FreeRide

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Posted 03 April 2021 - 08:56 PM

Wow, how many mile you folks putting on that you need all that grease? (Wish I could get out and ride that much again)


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#4 DOOLIFE800

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Posted 04 April 2021 - 08:23 AM

4 to 5000 miles a year average. This year my worst year due to lack of snow. 2000m. With 5000 miles I tear apart everything except motor. Repack every bearing top to bottom.

#5 Minnesota FreeRide

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Posted 04 April 2021 - 09:08 AM

Yep, that will do it! Think the first go around made 10,000 but since then lucky to get 5, not sure why that is other than now I know what wears I see it sooner. . .

 

Will be interesting to see what you get now.


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#6 DOOLIFE800

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Posted 12 April 2021 - 07:08 AM

Well Pepper1681 I think I figured out where you added the other two zerks that I didn't. Finally did the two aluminum brackets that go from the rear arm to the rear tunnel mounts. Never dared drill that aluminum for fear of weakening it. After buying four new bushings for maybe the fourth time on this sled I drilled them. Here's hoping they don't break.

Edited by DOOLIFE800, 12 April 2021 - 07:09 AM.


#7 smurfy71

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Posted 12 April 2021 - 09:15 AM

I opted for Mainway Solutions greasable bushings. Put them in yesterday.

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Edited by smurfy71, 12 April 2021 - 09:16 AM.

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#8 Pepper1681

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Posted 12 April 2021 - 04:10 PM

Well Pepper1681 I think I figured out where you added the other two zerks that I didn't. Finally did the two aluminum brackets that go from the rear arm to the rear tunnel mounts. Never dared drill that aluminum for fear of weakening it. After buying four new bushings for maybe the fourth time on this sled I drilled them. Here's hoping they don't break.

I wasn't worried about losing too much strength. I only drilled the minimum amount needed to put the zerk in and then used 3/32 bit to the bushing rather than 7/32 all the way through.


2017 Renegade Adrenaline 900 Ace

2000 Grand Touring 600

1997 Mach Z 800

1995 Formula STX 583

1987 Formula Plus 521

1971 Nordic 399


#9 DOOLIFE800

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Posted 12 April 2021 - 08:19 PM

I did the same

#10 12/3

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Posted 13 April 2021 - 06:09 AM

The OP asked about steering column zerks but I haven't seen those on a skidoo since my 2007 Blizzard. They used to be down low under the muffler.

Also, for those that are greasing the a-arms with oil lites: I was under the assumption that oil lites shouldn't be greased as they are designed to release a tiny amount of oil that is impregnated in the bushing. Maybe Ray "snowshooter" could chime in if he sees this thread as he was the original designer of them.

#11 DOOLIFE800

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Posted 13 April 2021 - 07:05 AM

12/3, I understand the oil light bushings release oil, but wish to keep out all sand and water. I am concerned that when I pressurize the joint with my yellow suspension Grease it oozes out a brownish color. Hoping those bushings are not in some way damaged by the grease. I also hope someone can speak 2 using Grease along with those bushings.

#12 Saber

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Posted 13 April 2021 - 08:11 AM

I was wondering how many miles can you go with the metal bushings that are greased before they are dry and start to wear.  For example you go on a multi day trip and run up 1500 miles.  Not going to carry a grease gun. I don't see a problem on the rear suspension as you left the parts OEM.  But the front bushings are different.  I think I saw posts were some people saw wear on some metal bushings.

 

Good idea to needle grease the ball joints at some point.  When mine wore out.  I checked the lube as it was dry.  Did the needle ever since.


Past Sleds:

1969 skidoo Olympic

1972 Polaris Charger 400

1976 Polaris TX 440

1979 Polaris TXL

1981 Polaris Indy 500

1984 Polaris Indy 400

1986 Polaris Indy SP 488

1992 Polaris RXL

1993 Polaris SP 500

1996 Polaris XLT

2004 Skidoo Rev 500

2005 Skidoo Rev 500

2007 Skidoo Blizzard 600 SDI

2009 Skidoo Renegade 600 Etec

Vintage:

1980 Polaris Indy 500 Factory Prototype

1997 Polaris Ultra

1983 Yamaha Enticer 300


#13 12/3

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Posted 13 April 2021 - 09:17 AM

12/3, I understand the oil light bushings release oil, but wish to keep out all sand and water. I am concerned that when I pressurize the joint with my yellow suspension Grease it oozes out a brownish color. Hoping those bushings are not in some way damaged by the grease. I also hope someone can speak 2 using Grease along with those bushings.

Snowshooter could speak more to the engineering of the oil lites.  I can't see any damage by adding grease to this bushing, rather they wouldn't release the oil that has been impregnated....but you should have a better lubed a-arm with the grease that you've pushed in?

 

If I implied in my previous post that damage would occur, that wasn't what I was trying to convey.  I should have said that the grease isn't necessary with the impregnated bushing but if you opt for grease it should provide more lube to the joint.  Realize that this is a guess on my part as I'm not the manufacturer of these bushings. 

 

Worthy to note that I have oil lites on 4 sleds and I haven't had any issues to date.  Mine don't have grease zerks on the a-arms.   


Edited by 12/3, 13 April 2021 - 09:22 AM.


#14 Pepper1681

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Posted 13 April 2021 - 05:55 PM

I was wondering how many miles can you go with the metal bushings that are greased before they are dry and start to wear.  For example you go on a multi day trip and run up 1500 miles.  Not going to carry a grease gun. I don't see a problem on the rear suspension as you left the parts OEM.  But the front bushings are different.  I think I saw posts were some people saw wear on some metal bushings.

 

Good idea to needle grease the ball joints at some point.  When mine wore out.  I checked the lube as it was dry.  Did the needle ever since.

 

Saber, I know this is a real long shot, but you don't happen to have the old ball joints still around do you. If you did and were about to toss them out I'd ask if you could drill a hole in the middle of the top cover and give me an idea of how much space there is to the top of the ball.


2017 Renegade Adrenaline 900 Ace

2000 Grand Touring 600

1997 Mach Z 800

1995 Formula STX 583

1987 Formula Plus 521

1971 Nordic 399


#15 Saber

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Posted 14 April 2021 - 07:22 AM

Saber, I know this is a real long shot, but you don't happen to have the old ball joints still around do you. If you did and were about to toss them out I'd ask if you could drill a hole in the middle of the top cover and give me an idea of how much space there is to the top of the ball.

Yes that was a long shot.  I recycled them for the metal. 

 

You can buy one on ebay much cheaper than BRP to experiment on.  Might be a problem with metal chips stuck in top from drilling and tapping.  Also the metal wall thickness is probably pretty thin.  Might be easier to just needle grease them.  You only would need to do it say twice in its life.  Plus we don't really know if keeping the grease fresh actually extends the life of the ball joint.


Past Sleds:

1969 skidoo Olympic

1972 Polaris Charger 400

1976 Polaris TX 440

1979 Polaris TXL

1981 Polaris Indy 500

1984 Polaris Indy 400

1986 Polaris Indy SP 488

1992 Polaris RXL

1993 Polaris SP 500

1996 Polaris XLT

2004 Skidoo Rev 500

2005 Skidoo Rev 500

2007 Skidoo Blizzard 600 SDI

2009 Skidoo Renegade 600 Etec

Vintage:

1980 Polaris Indy 500 Factory Prototype

1997 Polaris Ultra

1983 Yamaha Enticer 300





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