18 replies to this topic

[doodog]

I cracked the one on my G4 that attaches to the exhaust sensor. I ordered one from Amazon and it appears to be the same but it does have a different number stamped below the part number. Anyone know if these are the same? Also how do I replace it without cutting the wires?

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[nm9stheham]

Best guess is that the lower number is just a date code.

 

Try to find a pin extractor; that would push in from the front and release the pins, one at a time. You might have to release the back piece first. See if this helps:

Edited by nm9stheham, 01 April 2021 - 05:16 PM.

[philcollins]

33481-0201 is. The part number, the number under it is useless to us.

[doodog]

Thanks guys, this definitely helps and gives me a place to start.

[Couch1]

The pins usually have a tab on one or both sides that hold them in. In order to remove you need to compress the tabs. I’ve had good luck using a long 18gauge finish nail to do this, but I’m not sure what that pin looks like. If you google the part number you should be able to find a pic of the pins which may help you get them out

[krm]

Snap On TT600 6 piece kits has all the tools you might need now and in the future

[landodude]

 That is a very good video.

[doodog]

Ok guys, to release the pins, do I push in where the red, blue or green is? I’m thinking the red? And on the other side do you just push the wires through the rubber weather proofing? My sled is not here so I’m trying to figure it out so I can go up to where I store them and pop it on. I believe I found that it holds an 18-22 gauge wire so I think Couch1 is correct on size.

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[nm9stheham]

Refer to this document from Molex: https://www.mouser.c...ectorsystem.pdf

 

Look at page 8, at the male type, to see how the back assembles. You look to have the male side. You have to pull out the 'seal cap', which has small lock tabs on each side that catch in holes in the body. IDK if you got a new seal cap or not....?? Once that is out, you can slide it and the orange seal back on the wires. If the tabs break on the seal cap, then you may need to glue it in or buy a new one and re-assemble. But IDK if you can slide a new seal cap and seal on the wires with the terminals already crimped in place. So just try to gently get that seal cap out, and take a bit of glue with you to use 'just in case'.

 

Procedure:

• Pull back the seal cap and seal on old housing and leave hanging on the wires..
• Before you release the pins from the old housing, or insert the pins in the new housing, you have to slide the 'TPA' forward in the front of both housings. Look at the bottom section on page 33 to see how to slide this out on both old a new housings; I think your red arrow points to where you grab the TPA to slide it out/in.
• Then remove the wires/pins on the old housing; your blue arrow shows where to insert a pick or paper clip or extraction tool to release the pins.
• Once you have re-inserted the wires/pins in the new housing, then slide this TPA back in.
• Then re-install the seal and seal cap.

[doodog]

Wow, thank you. That is very detailed info. Yeah I have the seal cap but I popped it off to show the weather proof orange rubber. If I’m reading it right I can use the the old seal and seal cap to simplify the install. Thanks again.

[krm]

Pull that seal out ,look in there ,you"ll see how it goes

[WildSioux]

Following since I'm installing heated seat elements in a 1+1 seat. They are arctic cat with the same exact molex that is on my Enduro. Hopefully I don't have to take apart the molex if they are reversed or something.

[Wink1]

https://www.youtube....h?v=sHBJUdkIFl8

 

This is the one I used to change the plug on the back of my gauge.

 

Sorry, the first link I posted didn’t work.

[nm9stheham]

Wow, If I’m reading it right I can use the the old seal and seal cap to simplify the install. Thanks again.

Yes, that is the way I am reading it too. R&R of the seal and seal cap seems dubious with the pins still crimped on the wires, so I would try to just replace the connector body.

Edited by nm9stheham, 04 April 2021 - 09:10 AM.

[nm9stheham]

Following since I'm installing heated seat elements in a 1+1 seat. They are arctic cat with the same exact molex that is on my Enduro. Hopefully I don't have to take apart the molex if they are reversed or something.

Let's hope they are not reversed. If so, then you are going to have to change the connector from male to female, or vice versa, on one side, and that will require changing the pins on the wires too. Reliable crimping requires a correct crimping tool; those are not cheap. If it comes to that, then you may need to add a tiny touch of solder for a reliable connection of new pins to the wires, if you can't borrow a tool.