3 replies to this topic

[mrwarrior737]

Hey Guys,

Rode my sled about 50 miles this weekend after some reworking of a few items. Mostly controls and air box stuff.

Its basically as far as I have ridden it since I have owned it.

It rode perfectly all day.

 

As I ride I have a slight tinking metal sound around the drive sprocket shaft area going into the break and gearbox.

Almost like a dry dirty break disk tinky tinky as the motor runs and idles and goes through the rpms at certain times.

Quites when breaking.

I believe it may be from a bearing on the shaft that runs into the break disk and gearbox.

The brake disk hub on the drive sprocket shaft has slight slop side to side which I think is fine.

 

Could it be bearing on this assembly, maybe break pads or something?

Is this a common sound occurrence for anyone else?

 

I am going to post a video later where you can here the sound.

Its tough to hear it from my gopro but if you pay close attention you can here it.

 

[slimmer455]

Is your sled pull start only? If so could be the guide rope. It is supposed to be bolted to the floor. On mine,the tab that holds it down broke. That means your rope guide,and your pull rope are now rubbing on the jack shaft. On mine it burned a hole in the guide rope,hence burned the pull rope. The noise could be it banging on the jack shaft.

[LETMGROW]

If the noise quiets down when braking it leads me to believe the disc brake rotor is loose on the jackshaft. There is a key in a key way on the shaft and a key way in the rotor hub. The key may be worn or a key way may be worn or a combination of all three. If you can rock the rotor back and forth on the jackshaft that is probably where your problem is.

You would not hear a noise caused by a loose rotor if the sled was sitting still, idling with the brake applied as the rotor would be held into place with the pressure from the brake caliper and pads. With the brake released and the pads retracted slightly the rotor could rattle.

I recently replaced the jackshaft and brake rotor in one of my Mach 1's because the key way was worn badly in the shaft as well as the key itself. I was afraid the key would shear off and I would have no brakes at all. This was on our Pro Improved 700. Solid brakes are a priority after a run with a limited shut down area.

Lynn

[mrwarrior737]

I will check that out tonight. I will also post a video link with the sound. 

I can move the rotor on the shaft back and forth slightly by hand.

Edited by mrwarrior737, Yesterday, 11:57 AM.