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1996 Touring LE Electrical Issue


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#1 cambs

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Posted 22 February 2021 - 11:45 AM

Newbie says hello to everyone, thanks to the Admin for the add to the group.
My 1996 touring le has a electrical issue that having a hard time figuring out. I have replaced the battery, stator and the voltage regulator, also have removed the main harness under the engine and inspected it for any signs of shorts. The seat has been removed to inspect the wiring to the tail light nothing found anywhere. The persistent dim lighting remains with accessory circuits unplugged. I suspect the problem may be in the connections of the stator plugs themselves. Has anyone got a specific wiring diagram for this model? My stator has yellow, yellow/black, green and white wires coming out. Red/white wire from pickup The engine starts and runs great but this lighting issue is crazy. I have a service manual that is supposed to cover this model but the wiring diagrams are not right.
Thanks any help would be much appreciated.

#2 David H

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Posted 22 February 2021 - 11:55 AM

Welcome to dootalk.  PM your email and I'll give you the 96 manual and spec book.


David H
Excelsior, MN
 


#3 Fuzzy Navel

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Posted 22 February 2021 - 10:39 PM

Welcome. You didn't indicate if the issue is just on idle or always? Yellow/YellowBlk is your lighting circuit and it is AC not DC. When measured with a volt meter it can register up to 16 or 17v. If this is happening only on idle, you need to ensure your idle speed is adequate. 



#4 cambs

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Posted 22 February 2021 - 11:03 PM

Double checked my connections at the first plug off the stator as per manual received from David H. My main harness plug was never changed only the plug on the stator wires had to been reinstalled, they all look ok. The lights flicker at idle when I speed the engine up they go very dim almost totally out. The headlight comes back to look most normal when the ignition key is turned off. The headlight will stay good until the engine quits turning. I'm lost as to know where the problem actually is.

#5 Fuzzy Navel

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Posted 22 February 2021 - 11:08 PM

Double checked my connections at the first plug off the stator as per manual received from David H. My main harness plug was never changed only the plug on the stator wires had to been reinstalled, they all look ok. The lights flicker at idle when I speed the engine up they go very dim almost totally out. The headlight comes back to look most normal when the ignition key is turned off. The headlight will stay good until the engine quits turning. I'm lost as to know where the problem actually is.

I would measure the yellow/yellowBlk at the first plug out of the stator. Use a volt meter, set on AC and see what it reads on idle and as you spool up.



#6 cambs

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Posted 22 February 2021 - 11:56 PM

Just checked the yellow and yellow/ black wire off the stator. 19 volts at idle up to 30 volt AC with throttle up some.

#7 snow n go

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Posted 23 February 2021 - 12:49 AM

The idle AC voltage is high and 30 VAC is also high.

My 97 MHZ was putting out 16 VAC at 1900 rpm idle an 45 volts AC at 4000 + rpm.

These voltages were enough to burn out all bulbs on the sled.

Is this snowmachine electric start?



#8 cambs

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Posted 23 February 2021 - 01:10 AM

Yes it is electric start. I had burnt out headlight and tail light bulbs in the beginning during the initial assessment. I also discovered the voltage regulator also fried. You could see it was burned bad through the clear plastic. I thought the voltage regulator was the problem and replaced it with a new one only to have the same problem. Then replaced the stator as well. Nothing seems to be working right yet, the lights are dim and flicker, speed the engine up they get worse not better.

#9 snow n go

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Posted 23 February 2021 - 01:34 PM

Your previous statement 

 

The headlight comes back to look most normal when the ignition key is turned off. The headlight will stay good until the engine quits turning. I'm lost as to know where the problem actually is.

 

This often is an indication of an electronic device issue. Once the rpm's drop then internally a device stops being able to function in it's appropriate range and momentarily the lights work or seem to work. Can you put a volt meter on a headlight socket and see what Voltage you read at idle and what rpm that idle is, also when the rpm's are dropping after shutoff what voltage do your see when the headlights are bright?



#10 cambs

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Posted 23 February 2021 - 01:58 PM

I hope to get back to it later this afternoon. It's weird with new components I'm still having the same issue. I will check as you advise and post it. I'm still stuck on the thought of a short somewhere. Thanks for all the help, electrical problems are not my Forte but will persist. It's an old sled but in like new condition otherwise.

#11 TwoRevs

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Posted 23 February 2021 - 03:19 PM

What are you getting for dc volts at the battery when its running



#12 cambs

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Posted 23 February 2021 - 07:53 PM

I checked ac voltage at the headlight, I'm only getting about 1.4 volts at idle. Voltage goes to nearly 7 volts when you shut off the engine. I also tested the main harness plug by unplugging the voltage regulator. The yellow and yellow/black wires test the same as the stator wires of the same color about 18 to 19 volts ac at idle. Is it possible the new regulator is defective? Battery tested 12.8 volts dc with engine not running. With engine running it drops to 11.2 volts dc. I haven't got any method of testing the engine RPM but it always idles nice. Buy testing the red and black wires of the voltage regulator will that show output to the battery charging circuit and be in dc volts?

#13 snow n go

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Posted 23 February 2021 - 09:19 PM

A fully charged battery (lead acid secondary type/what you have) is 12.8 volts.

11.2 volts is a Way dead battery, yes the battery should only be seeing DC in this case only

a rectified AC voltage but DC it is. 

There Are people here that have much more experience on these issues than I do.

For my guess, either your vreg is bad Or it is being dragged down by an unintentional connection

between the two grounds for you machine. I expect there is a separate ground for the DC battery charging

circuit and the AC accessories circuit. This ground may not be separate right now. In terms of background

did you purchase this machine with this issue? If not what were/are the circumstances around the appearance of

this issue?

EDIT: I checked the manual for my 98 Skidoo and there is specific mention to keep the two circuits AC and DC separate from each other. Anyone here able to elaborate upon where an unintentional connection between the two circuits might occur? Remembering this is my guess at the issue, not a pronunciation of fact. : -)


Edited by snow n go, 23 February 2021 - 09:28 PM.


#14 cambs

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Posted 23 February 2021 - 10:27 PM

I purchased this sled several years ago at that time everything work perfectly for many years. A couple of years ago it had problems and I put it away in covered storage until this winter. We don't get much snow where I live but the mountains get lots and are close by. This winter I decided I would tackle the electrical issue but it soon became apparent that it was more complex than I thought. The battery was replaced with new AGM battery at the start of repair, I am pretty sure it has not charged ant since the install. The manual I have says to disconnect the the ground cable first and reconnect last. Like you I suspect a cross connection or short to ground somewhere dragging the lighting circuit down and is yet to be resolved. Tomorrow I will inspect more of the main harness by removing the protective loom and so forth. The thumb warmer was replaced with new one and the hand warmers are currently disconnected because of possible problems there. I'm doing my best to get her done.

#15 TwoRevs

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Posted Yesterday, 12:54 AM

Does the electric start work?

 

yes..  the black and red is dc out of the vr






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